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[Danny]

ok my idle control valve, throttle body and breathers have been cleaned on my 2.0 auto, car runs like a dream now and doesn't panic itself when slowing down

however... when i start the car and it settles at its idle its fine, but then when i put it in drive or reverse, it tries to pull more than it should, like a manual would when you lift the clutch too much, almost stalling, but managing to catch itself, but then i release the brake just to make sure (while safe to do so obviously ).. any ideas why it's pulling too much?

[Dazzler]

Now all the breathers are clean and the throttle body etc.....the idle speed is to high, there is a trick to reset this which i am sure someone better than me will explain how to do

[Darth Loo-knee]

Now all the breathers are clean and the throttle body etc.....the idle speed is to high, there is a trick to reset this which i am sure someone better than me will explain how to do

Thought the idle speed had to be set by a TECH 2?

[Chopsdad]

It may just take a few days for the ECU to get used to the new amount of air available and then it will calm itself down.

[Danny]

i'll keep my eyes on it for a while then, it's less dangerous now, in that it attempts to stall before i've gone anywhere, as opposed to cutting out when slowing approaching junctions and roundabouts like before!!

[Matchless]

Im not familiar with the fly-by-wire systems but on the earlier throttle bodies there is a stop screw which should be adjusted so that the throttle is just completely closed.......some "mechanics" try to cure idling problems by screwing the stop in...brilliant....once the real problem is fixed then there is too much air getting past the throttle butterfly and the idle loop has no control over it.
I presume the fly-by-wire use a stepper motor to control the throttle opening during idle but I guess that there is still a fixed stop somewhere.

[Auto Addict]

I presume the fly-by-wire use a stepper motor to control the throttle opening during idle but I guess that there is still a fixed stop somewhere.

Not that I'm aware of, but I stand to be corrected.

Did you take the throttle body completely off?.

Did you replace the throttle body gasket?

Did you make sure that the small hole in the throttle body was completely clear?

Did you clean the pipe attatched to the cam cover (at the back), as well as the breather pipe?

[seastate]

I have the same thing!

My 3.0 engine was cutting out at idle sometimes, so yesterday I removed the plenum and throttle housing and cleaned everything.
When I put it all back it was fine but idling at a little too high revs.

Before it would idle at about 500rpm but now it's about 800rpm when in neutral and 600rpm when in drive with the brakes on.

Could this be the ICV?  or maybe there is some air getting in somewhere?  When I squeeze shut the hose that goes from the intake pipes to the ICV the idle speed slows down to a more normal speed..

Also it cut out again today when (whilst parked) I held the revs at 2500 for a few secs and then took my foot off the pedal.

Any suggestions?

[Abiton]

I'm anxiously awaiting "Special Delivery" of a new ICV that I bought from E-bay over the weekend. I'm hoping to find that the internal return spring is a good deal stronger than the one in my old unit.

I spent ages cleaning the thing out, only to have a worsening of my high revving symptoms. I have a speculative theory that as the spring gets weaker with time/temperature/gunk or whatever, it is insufficiently strong to return the valve to a shut position when the ECU/solenoid 'tells' it to. Cleaning the valve area out will tend to 'open' it more than when it was thoroughly gunked up, maybe?  The solenoid can only push it further open, after all. The airflow through the valve (on my x20xev engine at least) is in the direction that will tend to push/hold it open if this spring isn't 'man enough'.

Anyone thought of using an electric toothbrush for throttle-body/ICV cleaning etc? I wondered whether it might be rather 'fit for purpose' the other night whilst "Sonicaring" my teeth.  

Edit 11.30: Well it's arrived. First impressions are that it's got a significantly stronger spring in it. But also, I've spotted something I hadn't noticed on the other one (maybe 'cos it's not there on that one): There seem to be a couple of 'bypass' drillings that go from the 'in' side of the valve to the 'out' side (via the part where the spring sits), parallel to, and behind the actual valve passage...The new valve has zero in the way of identifying part numers, so presumably not a genuine part, but I only paid £40 for it, so no surprises there. I wonder if these extra drillings are the difference between the old part number and the one with the fabled X on the end??

Will fit at lunchtime; then, if problem solved, dissect the old one...