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[Craig_R]

I dont know what its like on a V6 but on my 4 Pot it was 500 quid to change the oil pump and other bits like pressure valve sump plug and so forth. My oil pump went major style and to say it was tappity is an under statment lol more like a tank running.

you could go for a major flush as if your going to change the engine you have nothing to lose. I have heard you can stick some dev in with thin thin oil and flush the whole system out but i have also heard it can some times cause more problems.

Good Luck if you go the engine change Ronny

[Ronald_McBurger]

OK. Engine acquired locally from my favourite supplier.

Target is to change this engine this Saturday afternoon. I have just watched as one was removed. It took 1 hour! Putting back is a bit longer, but we are talking 2 hours not 12.

Total time allocated is 5 hours. That includes splitting the box off and mating it up again.

Normally I wouoldn't bother, but this will be the first engine change I have done for 18 years. Kind of looking forward to it really. Old engine will be canabalised as much as I need WITHOUT MAKING A MESS and then scrapped. So, I will have a spare EGR valve, aircon compressor (that makes 3 I have), alternator, rocker covers, DIS pack (Dave still owes me one), and all the other little bits from the engine like the hydraulic tappets and cams.  I will reuse the cambelt kit from the old engine again as it is brand new. Also the water punmp. I will change both manifold gaskets whilst the engine is off the car too.

[JamesV6CDX]

OK. Engine acquired locally from my favourite supplier.

Target is to change this engine this Saturday afternoon. I have just watched as one was removed. It took 1 hour! Putting back is a bit longer, but we are talking 2 hours not 12.

Total time allocated is 5 hours. That includes splitting the box off and mating it up again.

Normally I wouoldn't bother, but this will be the first engine change I have done for 18 years. Kind of looking forward to it really. Old engine will be canabalised as much as I need WITHOUT MAKING A MESS and then scrapped. So, I will have a spare EGR valve, aircon compressor (that makes 3 I have), alternator, rocker covers, DIS pack (Dave still owes me one), and all the other little bits from the engine like the hydraulic tappets and cams.  I will reuse the cambelt kit from the old engine again as it is brand new. Also the water punmp. I will change both manifold gaskets whilst the engine is off the car too.

Very much looking forward to the results here

[Markie]

Very much looking forward to the results here


I am too - lots to be learned from it for me 

[JamesV6CDX]

Very much looking forward to the results here


I am too - lots to be learned from it for me 

I've done this on a 2.0 Omega, never a V6....

[Markie]

Very much looking forward to the results here


I am too - lots to be learned from it for me 

I've done this on a 2.0 Omega, never a V6....

And ive removed a v6 but never had to refit it. So its a win win situation all round  

[Ronald_McBurger]

The v6 is apparently much easier. I have been reliably informed by a guy who has done LOTS of both.

When you think about it logically, there isn't much to it. Here goes:

1. unplug the two purple plugs in the relay box.
2. Unplug the 3 multiplug connectors by the relay box
3. Unplug the ECU.
4. Sling the whole loom on top of the engine
5. Get underneath. Support gearbox on jack and unplug all 4 autobox connectors plus the sector linkage. Undo all bolts from the gearbox to bell housing.
6. Still underneath, undo the two engine mounting lower nuts
7. Undo both manifiold to downpipe joints
8. Remove bagpipes
9. Disconnect radiator top and bottom hoses.
10 (optional) remove radiators
11. Disconnect aircon to compressor connectors
12. Unplug HBV to bulkhead
13. Unplug vacuum pipes
14. Undo the PAS pump pipes
15. Attatch crane and lift engine, then pull fortward to split bellhousing
16. Carefully remove engine

17. Refitting is not quite as simple as that, but virtually.

I will most likely just remove the gearbox and TC to give more access space

Not quite as bad as it seemed really.

[JamesV6CDX]

The v6 is apparently much easier. I have been reliably informed by a guy who has done LOTS of both.

When you think about it logically, there isn't much to it. Here goes:

1. unplug the two purple plugs in the relay box.
2. Unplug the 3 multiplug connectors by the relay box
3. Unplug the ECU.
4. Sling the whole loom on top of the engine
5. Get underneath. Support gearbox on jack and unplug all 4 autobox connectors plus the sector linkage. Undo all bolts from the gearbox to bell housing.
6. Still underneath, undo the two engine mounting lower nuts
7. Undo both manifiold to downpipe joints
8. Remove bagpipes
9. Disconnect radiator top and bottom hoses.
10 (optional) remove radiators
11. Disconnect aircon to compressor connectors
12. Unplug HBV to bulkhead
13. Unplug vacuum pipes
14. Undo the PAS pump pipes
15. Attatch crane and lift engine, then pull fortward to split bellhousing
16. Carefully remove engine

17. Refitting is not quite as simple as that, but virtually.

I will most likely just remove the gearbox and TC to give more access space

Not quite as bad as it seemed really.

It may be easier to remove the 6 bolts holding the Torque converter to the drive plate through the access hatch while underneith, leaving the TC in the gearbox, this will mean you won't have to bring the engine anywhere near as far forwards for removal...

[Martin_1962]

If I have the place to do this and an engine plus crane, give me 4 hours and I'll do it. Changing one of these is NOT hard. These engines are relatively small compared to something like a Rover SD1 2.6 straight 6 or Rover V8, both of which I have done in the past.. Also much lighter.

Remove SD1 2.6 and fit V8?

[Ronald_McBurger]

1st phase done. Well this won't run again without an engine change!

I did forget one tiny miniscule fact to take into account..... the sodding LPG wiring! It has been wired in by a very young child, wearing boxing gloves and using a blowtorch - well by the looks of things it has. So, I have just been making a schematic for it.

Anyway, both radiators out, aircon removed, bagfpies obviously out, hoses off including the B@satrd pipe one, HBV disconnected from bulkhead and LPG, in fact all that remains is to drain the PAS reservoir with a syphon and then discoonect the pipes from the pump, then splite the box off and out it comes.

SD1 and v8 were both engines out and back in. The V8 one came from another SD1 and went into a range rover.

[Admin]

OK. Engine acquired locally from my favourite supplier.

Target is to change this engine this Saturday afternoon. I have just watched as one was removed. It took 1 hour! Putting back is a bit longer, but we are talking 2 hours not 12.

Total time allocated is 5 hours. That includes splitting the box off and mating it up again.

Normally I wouoldn't bother, but this will be the first engine change I have done for 18 years. Kind of looking forward to it really. Old engine will be canabalised as much as I need WITHOUT MAKING A MESS and then scrapped. So, I will have a spare EGR valve, aircon compressor (that makes 3 I have), alternator, rocker covers, DIS pack (Dave still owes me one), and all the other little bits from the engine like the hydraulic tappets and cams.  I will reuse the cambelt kit from the old engine again as it is brand new. Also the water punmp. I will change both manifold gaskets whilst the engine is off the car too.

Hmm I may be on the scrounge for a few bits mate...

[Marks DTM Calib]

Remember that you need a 98 or later power plant.....an earlier one will create more problems

Remember also to disconnect the O2 sensors and pop the cruise module out for a bit more clearance on the drivers side.

Its worth doing all the odd jobs like cambelt etc before re-fitting......and maybe exhaust manifold gaskets to.

[Ronald_McBurger]

Yep, fully intend to do both manifold gaskets and if needed both rocker covers before putting in. cambelt and water pump I will do when in. Cruise can stay put, not in the way. Worst bit is having to strip the ebtire loom of the old engine and gfit it to the replacement, because the amount of extra wiring because of the LPG makes that the easiest option.

Condensor is fine.. New oil cooler fitted recently will be coming off. So will anything else I can store. If you want the lump for a play, come and get it.

[Ronald_McBurger]

Just an update. Engine purchased, old engine almost ready to take out and now engine crane purchased tonight for the lovelyt sum of £89.50 on ebay for a £293 crane - BRAND NEW!

[Marks DTM Calib]

And it is a post 98 engine........