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[Ronald_McBurger]

This, for those who have been following, is my 1999 Facelift 2.5 Elite LPG project car.

Having rebuilt the top end AGAIN this morning, I was delighted to find the tappets are only noisy now on tickover  . After a chat with various members including laidback (who has taken it for a run) and Mark, we have concurred that the most likely suspect is the oil pump. OH GOOD!

Now, for those who may not realise, the oil pump on the Omega is about the worst job to do. In fact it is so terrible, I would rather change the whole engine. Which is what I am now planning to do. I will remove everything useful from this one, inlcuding the cambelt kit, water pump, DIS pack, Aircon compressor, both manifolds, all leads, the plenum, both rocker covers and all 24 hydraulic tappets.

I will then drop in another 2.5 v6 and at the same time, I may as well change this gearbox after todays little antics. It didn't behave itself very well.

Engine change on this? Well, about 3 hours to get the engine out and another 4 to get the new one in and running properly. before installing, I will change both manifold gaskets, the oil cooler, the full cambelt kit and water pump. Also both rocker gaskets. Then drop the donor engine in and connect up the loom, both exhausts and all the plumbing. That means taking BOTH radiators out, so a regas is on the cards too.

BIG job in anyones books, but not beyond me. However, I happen to have a mate around the corner who will have exactly the engine and box I want. Yes, I will have to pay him, but heck that is easier!

Once done I will obviously have to update the V5, but that is easy enough. Sale price will go up a bit too. Now aiming for £3,500 when finished with a new Mot, 5 months tax left and LPG certified.

One monster project this in the end, but fun all the same.

[JamesV6CDX]

Fin, I have a 2.5 Omega Engine mate, wouldn't be hard to get out either, because I've already removed the Box in that car. Had a coolant leak, but ran beautifully. 120k. You changed the cambelt on it yourself.

The concern isn't how much I'd want for it (peanuts) - but how I'd get it out now I dont' have access to a crane, and how I'd get it to Nots.

Also, I don't need to tell you, I'm more than happy to come up and lend some muscle and gadget hands to help you do the change

You've got my details

[STMO123]

This, for those who have been following, is my 1999 Facelift 2.5 Elite LPG project car.

Having rebuilt the top end AGAIN this morning, I was delighted to find the tappets are only noisy now on tickover  . After a chat with various members including laidback (who has taken it for a run) and Mark, we have concurred that the most likely suspect is the oil pump. OH GOOD!

Now, for those who may not realise, the oil pump on the Omega is about the worst job to do. In fact it is so terrible, I would rather change the whole engine. Which is what I am now planning to do. I will remove everything useful from this one, inlcuding the cambelt kit, water pump, DIS pack, Aircon compressor, both manifolds, all leads, the plenum, both rocker covers and all 24 hydraulic tappets.

I will then drop in another 2.5 v6 and at the same time, I may as well change this gearbox after todays little antics. It didn't behave itself very well.

Engine change on this? Well, about 3 hours to get the engine out and another 4 to get the new one in and running properly. before installing, I will change both manifold gaskets, the oil cooler, the full cambelt kit and water pump. Also both rocker gaskets. Then drop the donor engine in and connect up the loom, both exhausts and all the plumbing. That means taking BOTH radiators out, so a regas is on the cards too.

BIG job in anyones books, but not beyond me. However, I happen to have a mate around the corner who will have exactly the engine and box I want. Yes, I will have to pay him, but heck that is easier!

Once done I will obviously have to update the V5, but that is easy enough. Sale price will go up a bit too. Now aiming for £3,500 when finished with a new Mot, 5 months tax left and LPG certified.

One monster project this in the end, but fun all the same.

Are you ABSOLUTELY sure its the oil pump Fin?

[JasonH]

Surely it's worth trying some serious engine oil flush first.

[JamesV6CDX]

I can't think what else it could be Steve.

Sounds like the oil pump is tired, EG not enough pressure at tickover, hence the tapping, but at higher revs, more pressure, so less noise.

Fin, any oil light coming on?

Sometime's it's easier just to hoist a known good lump in there, it can save hours of aggro finding an awkward fault.

[Markie]

A mammoth project indeed...lots of pics please Ronnie - and good luck  

[STMO123]

I can't think what else it could be Steve.

Sounds like the oil pump is tired, EG not enough pressure at tickover, hence the tapping, but at higher revs, more pressure, so less noise.

Fin, any oil light coming on?

Sometime's it's easier just to hoist a known good lump in there, it can save hours of aggro finding an awkward fault.

I think an engine change devalues a car :-/  I'm always wary when I read that

[JamesV6CDX]

A mammoth project indeed...lots of pics please Ronnie - and good luck  

Wouldn't go as far as mammoth

None of it's mega hard, it's just time consuming....

Saying that, I'd like to get involved with this one

[Admin]

Ohhh boy.... an engine transplant!  

While I can understand your reasoning (I suspect Mark will be of a different opinion!  ) I think the 7 hrs all in estimate will be "hopeful"...

Ah well, will be an interesting job!  

[Matchless]

A mammoth project indeed...lots of pics please Ronnie - and good luck  

Wouldn't go as far as mammoth

None of it's mega hard, it's just time consuming....

Saying that, I'd like to get involved with this one

Suspend engine from beam spanning the front wing gutters.
Unbolt steering idler and split ball joint on rhs
Drop front subframe around 4 "
Remove lower sump and upper sump
bagpipes out, alternator off
Cambelt off, camshaft pulleys off, backplate off
Undo crankshaft pulley bolt (need 3 - 4 foot bar!!)
Depressurise a/c, remove a/c compressor
Unbolt aux support bracket
unbolt oil pump.

Hmm, I just spent a 12 hour day getting to the point where you would unbolt the compressor, I vote for an engine transplant, its quicker and much easier, BUT it would have to be a known good engine, you wouldnt want to start fixing oil leaks etc after fitting it.

[Admin]

Hmmm if you vote for an engine transplant Pete, I am most certainly not going to argue!  

12hrs to get to that point! bl**dy hell!  

You sure you don't want to do a transplant too?

[Matchless]

Hmmm if you vote for an engine transplant Pete, I am most certainly not going to argue!  

12hrs to get to that point! bl**dy hell!  

You sure you don't want to do a transplant too?

This was on my CDX estate which was losing a litre of oil in 50 miles
Bad leak from upper oil pan to block joint plus leaking front crankshaft oil seal. Didnt help that one of the subframe captive nuts decided to escape captivity when I was trying to put it all back together.
Will write a crank seal maintainance guide but its not for the faint hearted.

[JamesV6CDX]

Hmmm if you vote for an engine transplant Pete, I am most certainly not going to argue!  

12hrs to get to that point! bl**dy hell!  

You sure you don't want to do a transplant too?

This was on my CDX estate which was losing a litre of oil in 50 miles
Bad leak from upper oil pan to block joint plus leaking front crankshaft oil seal. Didnt help that one of the subframe captive nuts decided to escape captivity when I was trying to put it all back together.
Will write a crank seal maintainance guide but its not for the faint hearted.

Something I'd like to have a stab at, at some point.....

[Kevin Wood]

<Suck Eggs mode>

I'm sure you'll have satisfied yourself that it needs to come out by now but just in case have you carried out the following checks? ...

Put an oil pressure gauge on it and verified that the pressure is low at idle?
Had a look at the pressure relief valve to ensure it's not stuck open?

There's also a "safety valve" shown in the oil pump diagrams. Not sure what this does but it looks like another relief valve. I'm not sure if you can get at these valves without removing the pump, but I'd imagine you can.

</Suck Eggs mode>

In the long run, if it's had low oil pressure problems it's probably best to replace the whole lump, however. Who knows what damage the low pressure could have done to the bearings?

Kevin

[Ronald_McBurger]

Yep. This is a definte engine change as far as I am concerned. Everything checked that can be. Raise the revs and tappets settle. Low oil pressure is the only possibility. Safety valve cannot be accessed without removing a LOT. oil pressure relief valev already checked as was lower sump and strainer. All oil ways are open. just low pressure.

Laidback confirmed after a good run of moe than 50 miles today that the engine is low on power as suspected by me on my drive. So engine change it is.

If I have the place to do this and an engine plus crane, give me 4 hours and I'll do it. Changing one of these is NOT hard. These engines are relatively small compared to something like a Rover SD1 2.6 straight 6 or Rover V8, both of which I have done in the past.. Also much lighter.

Realistically, I am opting for the mate with thespace, crane, engine and tools.