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[cem_devecioglu]

At the time I buy the car..Also the tires had lost the correct shape although they were new..The previous owner was a soldier and dont use the car for a long time...

[Kevin Wood]

Many rapid fit tyre places do not balance very well. Omega has wide wheels and is very much affected by poor balancing...

I sat and watched a local place balancing them once. They run them up on the machine, added weights where indicated and chuck back on the car. No check to make sure it is now balanced after adding weights, although this would have taken them about 5 seconds .

Have you tried swapping over the front and rear wheels on each side in turn? If the vibration moves from the chassis to the steering or vice versa, you know when you've moved the troublesome wheel. If it doesn't move with both wheels you can suspect something in the braking / transmission / suspension.

Because the propshaft rotates much faster than the wheels I'd expect it to show signs of vibration from lower speeds - around 30-40 MPH is typical IME. If the vibration doesn't start until motorway speeds I'd be surprised if it were something rotating at propshaft speed.

If the car has been sitting on the tyres for a while it could be that they are out of shape and it may be that they'll regain their shape over a period of time during regular use, meaning that if you have them balanced they'll quickly go out of balance again...

Kevin

[iain0410]

Don't think this will help TVT but may be worth sharing.

I had a new set of tyres fitted and all seemed well for a couple of weeks and then a vibration set on at around  70- I don't do alot of motorway miles. Vibration was felt through the seat and was bad. All sorts of dire thoughts ....prop sahft   'wrong tyres. Took it back to the tyre outlet and the balance weight had come off arear tyre. Exscuse from the tyre fitter was they now use zinc balance weigts instead of lead and they detach easily. Hope you solve your problem as they are a lovely car.

[wheels-inmotion]

I feel the problem is balancing.

Most tyre centres use the wheels centre hole to mount the wheel on the balancer. The centre hole is cosmetic and not guaranteed to be surgically central.

The correct way to mount the wheel is on a "studded plate" this mimics the same method as the wheel is bolted to the car.

Peugeot/ citroen realised this years ago and that's why most of their wheels have solid centres.

Phone around and ask the tyre shop if they can balance wheels with solid centres like Peugeot 205/6 then have them test the balance.

[Entwood]

Is it worth trying to find a centre that does "on car" balancing ?? This may be beneficial to tracing the source if it is a single wheel that is out, and will ensure that all rotating parts are in the equation, ie brake discs, drive shafts etc etc  ?

[cem_devecioglu]

Is it worth trying to find a centre that does "on car" balancing ?? This may be beneficial to tracing the source if it is a single wheel that is out, and will ensure that all rotating parts are in the equation, ie brake discs, drive shafts etc etc  ?

Think you have right..On car balancing is very important but here is rare..Only old people use that way..The new ones trust the machines too much..

[Paul M]

I feel the problem is balancing.

Most tyre centres use the wheels centre hole to mount the wheel on the balancer. The centre hole is cosmetic and not guaranteed to be surgically central.

The correct way to mount the wheel is on a "studded plate" this mimics the same method as the wheel is bolted to the car.

Peugeot/ citroen realised this years ago and that's why most of their wheels have solid centres.

Phone around and ask the tyre shop if they can balance wheels with solid centres like Peugeot 205/6 then have them test the balance.

I thought the wheels on most cars are hub-centric, that is the centre hole in the wheel actually sits on the hub, then the bolts are tightened to lock the wheel in place. In which case the hole would have to be perfectly centred, otherwise the wheel would never sit centred on the hub.

That's the reason you have to buy wheels with the correct centre bore, as even if the stud pattern is correct an oversize centre bore will allow the wheel to move and place more force on the bolts than they were designed for. An undersize centre bore obviously won't allow the wheel to be fitted at all.

[TheBoy]

I feel the problem is balancing.

Most tyre centres use the wheels centre hole to mount the wheel on the balancer. The centre hole is cosmetic and not guaranteed to be surgically central.

The correct way to mount the wheel is on a "studded plate" this mimics the same method as the wheel is bolted to the car.

Peugeot/ citroen realised this years ago and that's why most of their wheels have solid centres.

Phone around and ask the tyre shop if they can balance wheels with solid centres like Peugeot 205/6 then have them test the balance.

I thought the wheels on most cars are hub-centric, that is the centre hole in the wheel actually sits on the hub, then the bolts are tightened to lock the wheel in place. In which case the hole would have to be perfectly centred, otherwise the wheel would never sit centred on the hub.

That's the reason you have to buy wheels with the correct centre bore, as even if the stud pattern is correct an oversize centre bore will allow the wheel to move and place more force on the bolts than they were designed for. An undersize centre bore obviously won't allow the wheel to be fitted at all.

I think its the studs/bolts that centre it - though that was why they had the taper bits on....

[TeeVeeTee]

OK, thanks again for all the replies, this is what I'm going to do -

1. Take the spare and replace each wheel in turn and run it up the MWay to 70 (it's only around the corner so it wont take long.

2. Look for an outlet that balances wheels on the car or a specialist alignment centre (like rocking horse droppings I suspect)

3. Wait until I need new tyres - not long now

4. Start looking at replacing bits and pieces.

Like many of you, I'm almost certain that it's some kind of wheel related problem like balancing.

This will be done as soon as I can and I'll update the thread asap

Cheers

TVT

[Richard A]

Please look at my post 'Wheel Balance !!!!', try to make a friend of a tyre garage (you know what i mean), they have the equipment but the wheel balance maybe fine for the local school run, but not for prolonged motorway/higher speeds.
Please check all wheels and tyres first before you spend loads of money on other things.
regards
richard

[cem_devecioglu]

finding alloys 15-16-17 with original opel/vauxhall bolt distance and count 5 x 110 is problem here..

I see some garages offer 5 x 112 (possibly beamer) that I think will cause problems..

5 x 110 dont let any gap for bolts and centre...Its perfect fit. No need for bandage..

In my previous car this was nightmare..

[TheBoy]

finding alloys 15-16-17 with original opel/vauxhall bolt distance and count 5 x 110 is problem here..

I see some garages offer 5 x 112 (possibly beamer) that I think will cause problems..

5 x 110 dont let any gap for bolts and centre...Its perfect fit. No need for bandage..

In my previous car this was nightmare..

5x112 do give a huge vibration on an Omega

[Old Sweat-RIPscoob]

I have recently had four brand new tyres, wheels balanced etc etc
And also had new front discs and pads, all needed doing anyway,

Because I had a slight vibration through the steering wheel, so I thought all the above would have solved it, but its still there, so my next thing to do is now check my bushes.My car has done 75,000 miles.

You didn't mention how long you have had your front discs on your car, as they can warp and cause a similar vibration..................its just a thought,

I'm now going to check my bush  

Kev,

[TeeVeeTee]

The disks, hmm - yes I had thought of that, I will check them too. My wife's old fiesta Auto went through a set every six months.
(Something to do with a faulty gearbox Valve, meaning the 'creep' was almost the equivalent to to a racing start)

Couldn't get shot of it quick enough. (Not sure I want to know about your bush though)

TVT

[Kaycee]

I had this problem last year identical to yours and it turned out to be the front Camber it was too near to the vertical should be around -1.20 or there abouts
im sure this is your prob as the speed increases the vibration gets worse if you drop the camber a bit you will find that the vibration comes in later ie if going 50 and vibrates it will start at 60 if you can understand that, omegas need negative camber my friends omega was set at vertical and it vibrated like hell after droping it in stages the vibration came later and later till all gone camber was - 1.15