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[VX1]

As above, but I have done a coolant flush and a rad flush. Now to me this is pointing to a blockage in the rad on the passenger side of the rad, is this right? If this is right I take it I have to take the rad out and flush it through, or would it be a case of renewing the rad? Advise would be appreciated.

Thanks Paul  

[Dazzler]

If both top and bottom hoses are both of equal temp then i would say you need to change the rad. Even flushing cannot unblock the tiny tubes in the core of the rad. HTH.

[Darth Loo-knee]

You could try back flushing the Rad to see if that would work.  

[VX1]

Top hose gets hot, bottom hose stays cool and the fan is on constantly even if the car is left over night as is was this morning, turned the ignition on and the fan cut in straight away.

[Dazzler]

Sounds a bit like a large airlock in there :-/

[VX1]

Sounds a bit like a large airlock in there :-/

I'm not getting any gurggling coming from the expantion tank and when i squeeze the top hose there is water bieing sqirted back into the tank.

[Markie]

give it a backflush with a garden hose and if that fails new radiator time

[hotel21]

It may well be worth removing the rad from the car to flush out, similar to removing a household cent heat rad and flushing it through.  Crud accumulates clear of the inlet/outlets and creats cold areas.  Flushing whilst flat, upside down, giving it a good shake or whatever, clears the cr*p out and ensures the rad is OK or at least as clean as you can make it.

If, after all the above, its still hot on reassembly, drop a post back and someone will assist further.  Remember to ensure no airlocks on bleeding, get the cabin heater on hot and start from cold with water to the mark and radiator cap OFF.  Squeeze rad pipes regularly to ensure air forced out.....  

[VX1]

Thnx Hotel21 will be doing that as sson as I get home from work.  

[VX1]

With reference to the rad getting hot on one side, I have removed the rad and flushed through thoroughly on the florr and upside down shaked it all about and do the okey dokey and turn around and thats cleared it all out. Ooookey kokey kokey, the fan still comes on constantly when cold this would mean that it is OVERCOOLING wouldn't it? So I think the fan switch could be faulty as this started to happen when I had flushed the system, or the fan itself. If I left it like this until the end of the month would it be okay?

Thanx Paul  

[hotel21]

Have you refilled the system and purged air etc with cap off and heater on as per earlier post?  If so and fan is running whilst stone cold then something appears amiss in the fan/relay/tempt sensor area.   :-/

[Grumpy]

Yeah, you've just turned the clock back a few decades, to when most
fans were a fixed constant drive.

The thermostat will control your coolant temp by modulating. The problem
would arise when in traffic where there was no forced airflow through the
Rad and the fan wouldn't come on to draw air through it.

If your fan's on all the time, you won't get this problem.

[Dazzler]

Sounds like a knackered fan switch to me. Do this first and try again.

[VX1]

Have you refilled the system and purged air etc with cap off and heater on as per earlier post?  If so and fan is running whilst stone cold then something appears amiss in the fan/relay/tempt sensor area.   :-/

Refilled the system and ran the car with the cap off and the heater on hot and full speed. The fan came on after about 15 sec's and continued to run. The rad got hot all over as with the hoses, I did squeeze the hose plenty and it was just coolant squirting back into the tank so that was ok.

[VX1]

Sounds like a knackered fan switch to me. Do this first and try again.

Thats what I thought dazzler. As stated earlier it started after doing a complete flush through so it could be the temp switch in the rad.