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[matt_mph]

Right, calling all owners who have had there omegas lowered. what is the ride quality like now its been lowered? Looking at getting an omega next year for my 18th or maybe 19th and was wondering if lowering effects the ride quality too much and also does it make its handle any better?

[2001CatOwner]

I wouldn't suggest it with the leveling control.  Best bet would be throw some dub's on it and get ground effects makes it look lower without messing with leveling controller.  Its nice as the computer adjusts to your driving, ex.  drive it hard and fast it will lower the front end a bit.  Dunno if you guys have it but we do here.  Hope that helps

[matt_mph]

Cheers mate, I know palmer3914 omega is lowered

[Marks DTM Calib]

Ride is a bit harder when lowered, not excessively though and still not as bad as most modern front wheel drive cars. Handling is much improved....

Irmscher lowering springs (30mm) and bilstein shocks are a good setup.

[matt_mph]

Top man mark . Is yours by any chance lowered? if so any chance u taking me for a spin in it, as i'm only in bulwell  8-)

[Marks DTM Calib]

No its not......yet.

They handle surprisingly well anyway and can catch out most front wheel drive cars!

[matt_mph]

good good. At the moment just testing the water as i won't be able to afford one till next year. But deffo going to be a 3.0 v6 manual cant beat the rawr of a V6

[Turk]

I lowered my 2.5td by 40mm (shorter springs and slghtly upgraded Monroe shocks).

If you lower it you MUST fit a CAMBER ADJUSTMENT KIT !! (Or you'll be buying tyres as often as you change yer pants !)

Lowering a car changes the steering geometry and the Omega is not adustable as standard.

Easy to fit. The front involves drilling out the lower of the two holes on the front strut (they even supplied the drill bit). Once the hole is drilled out, the cammed adjusting bolt kit is fitted.

It would be best if the front and rear kits were fitted at the time the camber set up is done 'cos the geometry will now be "all over the place".

I fitted mine myself and set it up visually, so it is possible to do it yourself and then drive to the set up, but it was trial and error and the improvement to the steering when it was done properly shows how far out I was. One degree out is e'nuff to cause steering problems.    

I have concentric adjustable poly bushes on the rear and the camber adjustment kit on the front. Both are available from Regal Auto.
I think they were listed as for the Vectra (check with Regal on that though).

Make sure whoever is doing the camber adjustment have a 4 wheel allignment facility. NOT the "Lazerline type" 4 wheel "tracking" facility that most tyre places have. It must be for camber adustment as well. I've been caught out by that. Booked the car in...took a day off...turns out they could only do tracking...Doh!!).

I think 40mm lowered requires a 1.10 deg setting (+/-0.45).

Also changed the wheels and tyres, so I'm now running 235/45-17 tyres(same as the MV6). This firms up the ride and improves the handling as side wall flexing is reduced.
 
Properly done it'll handle as good as it looks...and a lowered Omega with 17" alloys looks the puppies testicles !!

[TheBoy]

If you lower it you MUST fit a CAMBER ADJUSTMENT KIT !! (Or you'll be buying tyres as often as you change yer pants !)

Lowering a car changes the steering geometry and the Omega is not adustable as standard.

Cobblers, front camber is adjustable, rears, being trailing arm setup, doesn't drastically affect camber.

I think 40mm lowered requires a 1.10 deg setting (+/-0.45).

About the same target then.  Only +-.45 is way too much tolerance.

[Turk]

Ok, if the front camber is adjustable on a STANDARD Omega then please enlighten me as to how this is done.

As for the +/-.45 being too much. I did think that was a bit much, but that's what the computer said. Mind you, we got it to within +.05, so it was not an issue.  

Not sure on the "Doesn't drastically affecting the rear" statement. I have my 4 standard wheels and tyres that were fitted before I had the camber adjustment kits. They're in my garage and are ALL down to the canvas on the inside edge. (Yes I know...How did I let them get so bad ? er...well ya live 'n' learn !).

Also whilst were on the subject of "big wheels" etc. I think I'm right in saying that the Omega will take 19" wheels without any arch mods.

If you could post a "how to" re: front camber adjustment, I'd be most greatfull.
I don't fancy spending nearly £80-00 for no reason at all, to do the same on my next Omega. Not gonna transfer the Camber kit as it's not as easy to adjust as it used to be.      Cheers.    

[TheBoy]

Ok, if the front camber is adjustable on a STANDARD Omega then please enlighten me as to how this is done.

As for the +/-.45 being too much. I did think that was a bit much, but that's what the computer said. Mind you, we got it to within +.05, so it was not an issue.  

Not sure on the "Doesn't drastically affecting the rear" statement. I have my 4 standard wheels and tyres that were fitted before I had the camber adjustment kits. They're in my garage and are ALL down to the canvas on the inside edge. (Yes I know...How did I let them get so bad ? er...well ya live 'n' learn !).

Also whilst were on the subject of "big wheels" etc. I think I'm right in saying that the Omega will take 19" wheels without any arch mods.

If you could post a "how to" re: front camber adjustment, I'd be most greatfull.
I don't fancy spending nearly £80-00 for no reason at all, to do the same on my next Omega. Not gonna transfer the Camber kit as it's not as easy to adjust as it used to be.      Cheers.    

2 bolts holding hub to strut. loosen these, adjust your camber, retighten.

The trailing arm setup doesn't adjust camber hugely over its travel, unlike MacP struts.

Hope that makes sense...

[The Cambelt Kid]

good good. At the moment just testing the water as i won't be able to afford one till next year. But deffo going to be a 3.0 v6 manual cant beat the rawr of a V6

Have you had an insurance quote recently?  my 2.6 was nearly a 1 grand TPFT at 28y/o and 1 yr NCB.  Now i have 5 y NCB reinstated i dropped to 450, hopefully sub 400 next year.  Fingers crossed.

At 19y/o i could just about get a 1000cc mini insured for a grand TPFT, ouch    After i saved up 2y NCB i was given a company car for 5 years and lost it all, in fact i worked in Bullwell, just off Cinderhill island, not far from you i guess!

What you want is a 2ltr manual with go faster stripes - did i mention i was selling mine at all  

[The Cambelt Kid]

Come to think of it - i'm sure mv6's are lowered, mine seems very stable and goes round corners much better than my 2.0.  Makes my 2.0 feel like a jelly car.

[matt_mph]

good good. At the moment just testing the water as i won't be able to afford one till next year. But deffo going to be a 3.0 v6 manual cant beat the rawr of a V6

Have you had an insurance quote recently?  my 2.6 was nearly a 1 grand TPFT at 28y/o and 1 yr NCB.  Now i have 5 y NCB reinstated i dropped to 450, hopefully sub 400 next year.  Fingers crossed.

At 19y/o i could just about get a 1000cc mini insured for a grand TPFT, ouch    After i saved up 2y NCB i was given a company car for 5 years and lost it all, in fact i worked in Bullwell, just off Cinderhill island, not far from you i guess!

What you want is a 2ltr manual with go faster stripes - did i mention i was selling mine at all  

Thing is, my car " registered in dads name and insured in mums " is used by all 3 of us. I have say on what happens to it.  And as my mum is what i call a mature driver ( aka old fat :lol: ) its cheepo cheepo. and also being with direct line i still get a NCB  8-)

[unicus]

Come to think of it - i'm sure mv6's are lowered, mine seems very stable and goes round corners much better than my 2.0.  Makes my 2.0 feel like a jelly car.

I've now got a 2.5 CDX with MV6 wheels and it handles loads better than my old 2.0 GLS. I don't know if it's been lowered (how would I know?) but I don't think so.