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[buzz]

I have an ex police mv6.  Recently the car cut out, preceeded by most of the warning lights illuminating (batt/ecu/traction/abs/airbag) and the rpm/mph needles falling to zero.  There was no throttle response and then eventually cut out.  I suspect that the ecu has failed.  The ecu is bosch motronic 0 261 204589 gm 90 566 817.  Can I buy a secondhand replacement - or is there some immobiliser code/veh specific code?  If I can - any suggestions as to the best place to buy? :-?

[Kevin Wood]

I wouldn't be so quick to blame the ECU. They VERY rarely fail.

Crank sensor is probably the most likely culprit for engine just stopping, but check the battery voltage as it sounds like it could have just run out of electrical power due to a charging problem.

If you can get it running, read the fault codes from the ECU and post back. If it won't start with a fully charged a battery, check for fuel and spark and if these aren't there, change the crank sensor.

Kevin

[buzz]

VMT.  Couple of bone questions - is the crank sensor easily replaced? How do you check the fault codes.  I am currently searching for the answer on the internet - any ideas.

The alternator was replaced about 12 months ago, so I suspect the volts are ok.  A day after its initial failure I managed to start the car, but lumbered for a couple of minutes and cut out.

I am in the Odiham area - any (cheap) local specialists

 

[Entwood]

Paperclip test is here :

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687

you don't say which engine you have so not sure if this applies or you need to plug in to a tech2

[buzz]

VMT - very useful - I will crack on!!!

[Marks DTM Calib]

Dont rule out the alternator just because it was changed in the last 12 months....it could be a bog basic re-con one which are not known for their reliability so measure the battery voltage with the engine running.....asuming the engine will start.

I to suspect a failed alternator because there are to many systems simultaneously dying for it to be the engine ECU. e.g.

ABS/Tc ecu
Engine ecu
Instrument ecu
Airbag ecu...

The giveaway is the airbag one because its a stand alone item which takes no inputs from the main ecu.

[Kevin Wood]

I am in the Odiham area - any (cheap) local specialists

I live in Four Marks near Alton. I'd be happy to cast an eye over it sometime if you like?

Kevin

[Kevin Wood]

In addition, I've seen a few cars where the cable that connects the alternator & starter to the battery terminal has become loose where it's crimped to the battery terminal. A bad connection here would cause loss of electrical power.

First step is to fully charge the battery and see if it starts and runs, then measure the battery voltage with the engine running at a fast idle - see if the battery is being charged.

Kevin

[buzz]

Hi all - just did a diagnostic and got 12 - 48 - 31 -12.  Thoughts?

[magnul]

12 is just for showing that the sequence is initiating/restarting.
31=No engine rpm signal (not necessarily a fault if the engine wasn't running)
48=battery voltage low

Sounds like alternator to me, but wait and see what the grown-ups say.

-Magnus-

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yup....48 is the key....31 is standard with the engine not running and 12 is start and end of code cycle indicator.

[buzz]

TVM

I have jump started the car and ran for a few minutes with the ign/charge light glowing.  I will now charge the battery and start searching for  a new alternator!!  (Did'nt get much life out of the last one!!)  Any top tips on the best source of reconditioned units??