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[vectrolosys]

Hello,

First off, the car is a 96 2.0 CD with Air con (which may make a difference for getting to the sensor).

Right, I have had a running problem, which started as lumpy running when warm, and difficulty accelarating. Replacing the lambda probe and AFM have mostly resolved the problem, but, if you hold the car at 1500rpm , it does run a little lumpy. Previous ECU readouts have told me that the crankshaft sensor was at fault, now the engine was not rotating at the time of taking the test, so I am wondering if this is a default code like the V6's.

How does one go about replacing the sensor? The Haynes manual seems to think I need to remove the engine mount to get to the sensor.

Is there an easier way around that? anyone ever done this on a 2.0 with A/C before, and, is the crankshaft sensor likely to be the cause of this slight lumpiness? incidently, once underway and accelarating, the car is smooth, if you hold the throttle at 1500RPM. then it is slightly lumpy, but only when warm, which says to me that a sensor is breaking down.

James

[cem_devecioglu]

on a 2.5 v6 hesitation problem is solved with crank sensor but for your case  I'm not sure.

[vectrolosys]

on a 2.5 v6 hesitation problem is solved with crank sensor but for your case  I'm not sure.

I'm assuming the same here. I recently replaced one on a V6 Vectra, which had similar symptoms. Running quality was transformed. At the end of the day, they're doing the same job on both engines , just one uses a Simtec management, the other Bosch Motronic.

I was going to replace it today, but couldn't face another marathon under car session, not today anyway .

[cem_devecioglu]

on a 2.5 v6 hesitation problem is solved with crank sensor but for your case  I'm not sure.

I'm assuming the same here. I recently replaced one on a V6 Vectra, which had similar symptoms. Running quality was transformed. At the end of the day, they're doing the same job on both engines , just one uses a Simtec management, the other Bosch Motronic.

I was going to replace it today, but couldn't face another marathon under car session, not today anyway .

If the car you are workin on have over 100 K miles the cats+exhaust  is another possibility.After I changed the cats with silencers it really effect too much..But possibly in UK this will not be legal..

[Grumpy]

How does one go about replacing the sensor? The Haynes manual seems to think I need to remove the engine mount to get to the sensor.

I disagree with Haynes on this. I did mine earlier this year. All removing the engine mount
would do, in my opinion, would maybe allow you to see the sensor. The stuff that resticts
access is the Air Con Pump, the Power Steering Pump and the OIl Dipstick Tube.

I did mine from above. I removed the exhaust heatshield, 5 minute job, and then worked
blind to change it from above with a fair bit of cussing.

Run your hand down the Dipstick Tube until you meet the Crankcase. Feel forward, towards
the front of the engine, about 2", and you will feel the sensor and mounting bolt. You will
need an a universal joint to fit on to your socket to get the angle to turn the mounting
bolt. The socket is the same size as the heatshield bolts. This will save you fiddling around
blind trying to get the right size of socket.

My cabling was routed behind the power steering pump and up the Camshaft Belt Cover.
You can't route it that way without removing the Power Steering Pump, as the plug and the
socket are both too big to fit between the power steering Pump and the Engine. So I cut the Plug off mine to extract the old sensor and cables and re-routed it around the passenger side of the Pump
and picked up on the original clip points on the top half of the Camshaft Belt Cover.
This also keeps it away from the hot engine and the moisture/oil drips that track down
the cable to the sensor in the original routing.

If you can't access it this way, don't know how big your hands are, I would suggest unbolting
the Power Steering Pump and moving it out of the way on its flexible pipes.

If you could work out how to remove the Oil Dipstick Tube, I couldn't, then that would be the
way to go as access would then be very easy. I don't know if it's a force fit or fixed inside
the crankcase and I wasn't about to snap it off finding out.  

Hope that helps.

[Grumpy]

Previous ECU readouts have told me that the crankshaft sensor was at fault, now the engine was not rotating at the time of taking the test, so I am wondering if this is a default code like the V6's.

This was what was doing my head in as well, until 'TheBoy' pointed out that you can't check
the 2.0l with the engine running and to treat the code as genuine. It's different to the V6's.
I was going off the info that you get a crankshaft sensor fault with the engine static and so
you check for codes with it running. I was getting the crank sensor fault at static and no codes
with it running. So was tearing my hair out trying to fault diagnose until 'TheBoy' put me straight.

It certainly cured my problem when I changed mine.

[Taxi_Driver]

Hello,

First off, the car is a 96 2.0 CD with Air con (which may make a difference for getting to the sensor).

Right, I have had a running problem, which started as lumpy running when warm, and difficulty accelarating. Replacing the lambda probe and AFM have mostly resolved the problem, but, if you hold the car at 1500rpm , it does run a little lumpy. Previous ECU readouts have told me that the crankshaft sensor was at fault, now the engine was not rotating at the time of taking the test, so I am wondering if this is a default code like the V6's.

How does one go about replacing the sensor? The Haynes manual seems to think I need to remove the engine mount to get to the sensor.

Is there an easier way around that? anyone ever done this on a 2.0 with A/C before, and, is the crankshaft sensor likely to be the cause of this slight lumpiness? incidently, once underway and accelarating, the car is smooth, if you hold the throttle at 1500RPM. then it is slightly lumpy, but only when warm, which says to me that a sensor is breaking down.

James

Not true.....

Its gonna be the same as my 2.2
I didnt actually change mine myself.....i watched a mechanic do it....
Mind you he is pretty agile and at one point he was upside down with his legs in the air  
I know he only removed the dipstick to get access  

[Grumpy]

I know he only removed the dipstick to get access

Would you mind asking him if it's a push fit, force fit, or screw fit?
It obviously isn't fixed inside the crankcase after reading what you
said, and the Crank Sensor change would be a piece of cake with
this removed.

[vectrolosys]

I'm going to give this a go today, so shall let you all know how I get on, thanks to Grumpy for his advise on doing the job, my hands are rather large, so I'll move the PAS pump out the way as well, see if that gains some more access. Hopefully I won't even need to get under the car!!

[vectrolosys]

Hello,

Well, really not happy atm, and am close to just throwing in the towel with this car.

Basically, I have just replaced the crank sensor, the dipstick tube is a push fit btw and is held in place by a bolt on the PAS pump.

ANyway, I went for an enthusiastic test drive, just to give the car a good blast out. The drive was a 15 mile round trip, with a nice 60 MPH stretch. Anyway, I get into fifth and I am crusing happily on this stretch when suddenly the car jumps and the ECM light comes on.

I slow down, dip the clutch to select a lower gear and the rev counter jumps between 0 and 3000 RPM, the engine revs do not change incidently.

So, I manage to nurse the car home, with the rev counter jumping, the car seriously lacking power up hills and things being overall, a tad dicey. I get the car on the drive and it dies, I am now unable to restart it.

I have a feeling that the sensor I purchased off ebay, for £9 is a completely duff sensor!.

Anyway, I read off some fault codes and was disturbed to find that some of the codes do not exist, I'll go and read them again when I have calmed down a bit.

1- 235 (maye be 1-335 which is the crankshaft sensor).
1 -33 (not sure, not on the list)
1-1034 (not sure)
1-23

TBH, I am wondering if the alternator is at fault, could this be upsetting the ECU, could the ECU be totalled perhaps?

As it stands at the moment I am open to suggestions, and I am even considering throwing in the towel and getting something else.

James

[TheBoy]

1- 235 (maye be 1-335 which is the crankshaft sensor).
1 -33 (not sure, not on the list)
1-1034 (not sure)
1-23

Struggling to find any of these in TIS, though it only seems to have 2.0l codes from 98 onwards (not sure if ECU changed)

[vectrolosys]

Does the engine take its RPM readout signal from the crank angle sensor? My first step is to replace this sensor again, the measure the voltage coming off the alternator, once I have replaced it.

From the symptoms I have described, does it sound like the CAS has packed up? (even though its supposed to be brand new!!)

[Grumpy]

Sorry to hear you haven't fixed your defect, Vectrolosys, but thanks for the
info that the oil dipstick tube is a push fit. That will make the job quite
reasonable to do with it removed.

[Grumpy]

I think you need to read your codes again, you may have read them one
digit out of synch.
If you read in the middle section you have:

5,10,3,3,10,10,3,4,10.

This moved back 1 digit would read:

0330  Knock Sensor 2
0340  Camshaft Sensor

Just guessing above, so don't take as gospel.
Do them again and post them as proper 4 digit codes without the '1-' stuff,
if that makes sense.  

[vectrolosys]

UPDATE

Left the car in the garage for 40 minutes, went out and she started first time! idled smoothly and revved fine, but had some hesitation if helpd at 1500 to 2500 RPM, above this it seems smooth.

Ran the car at idle and 2500 RPM for 15 mins, no ECM light came on and car restarted instantly.

I took some measurements off the battery, 12V with engine off and 13.94 with engine on, this figure did not change during revving, which I think is normal.

Just wondering what I should replace now.

Cam sensor, Throttle position sensor, ECU!!!