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[vectrolosys]

I think you need to read your codes again, you may have read them one
digit out of synch.
If you read in the middle section you have:

5,10,3,3,10,10,3,4,10.

This moved back 1 digit would read:

0330  Knock Sensor 2
0340  Camshaft Sensor

Just guessing above, so don't take as gospel.
Do them again and post them as proper 4 digit codes without the '1-' stuff,
if that makes sense.  

Thanks for that, I was seething with anger at the time, so it's very likely I didn't read them off correctly. The ECM light has gone out now, but I hope it has stored the codes for reading.

Your sensor options make sense, what issues would the camshaft sensor give if not functioning correctly, and what would a failing knock sensor do to affect the running?

[VXL V6]

Cam sensor on X20XEV will put it into limp home mode - won't go above 4000 RPM. Stealers usually replace both cam and crank sensors at the same time as they're both a known weak point on the 2.0, never seem to last more than 40K at a time.

[vectrolosys]

Cam sensor on X20XEV will put it into limp home mode - won't go above 4000 RPM. Stealers usually replace both cam and crank sensors at the same time as they're both a known weak point on the 2.0, never seem to last more than 40K at a time.

Think I'll order in another cam sensor and change it as well. Was aware of the 4K limit , but as the car would rev beyond this, I thought all was well. What would a sensor that's breaking down, but not quite registering a fault do? though it probably has registered a fault now .

[Grumpy]

As above plus I believe that the ECU will fire all 4 injectors at the same,
time instead of sequentially, to ensure that the cylinders will get fuel to
ignite. This will give poor high fuel consumption running.

The knock sensor would cause the ECU to retard the timing with a consequent
lack of performance with hotter running until the ECU ignored it and substituted
a standard get you home value of retarded ignition timing.

[VXL V6]

You really need to flush the codes and see what comes back otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to find the cause.

[Grumpy]

Totally agree with VXL V6

[partsman]

Jumping gauges and no change in engine revs points towards a power supply fault....so I suspect a faulty alternator which is going intermittent.

[vectrolosys]

Jumping gauges and no change in engine revs points towards a power supply fault....so I suspect a faulty alternator which is going intermittent.

Makes sense, tbh that's what I thought.....I'll scour ebay for a second hand item.

I think, for the sensors, I'll order another crank and a cam sensor, but this time from Autovaux, and not a £9 special off ebay, in this scenario, I think I have gotten what I paid for! .

[VXL V6]

Can be Alternator (Usually makes a whining noise and various lamps illuminate followed by blowing the alternator lamp) but jumping gauges can also be a symptom of cam / crank sensors on the X20XEV - definately seen this on one of my old 2.0 Vectras.

[vectrolosys]

As above plus I believe that the ECU will fire all 4 injectors at the same,
time instead of sequentially, to ensure that the cylinders will get fuel to
ignite. This will give poor high fuel consumption running.

The knock sensor would cause the ECU to retard the timing with a consequent
lack of performance with hotter running until the ECU ignored it and substituted
a standard get you home value of retarded ignition timing.

Thanks for that, makes sense, as the consumption does increase slightly, but this fluctuates between good economy and poor, which could be the sensor breaking down. I'll just replace the sensor to start with, but as stated, use proper Autovaux sensors and no ebay specials.

Knock sensor, will replace also!!.

Total sensors replaced so far.

AFM
CAS

To come:-

CAM Sensor
Knock Sensor

Remind me to get a V6 next time!! never had any trouble with mine sensor wise.

[vectrolosys]

You really need to flush the codes and see what comes back otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to find the cause.

Agreed, will complete the standard disconnect battery and leave overnight method, that I have used previously.

[Grumpy]

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1153772945

Have a read of the above before splashing out on an alternator, especially
as yours is taking it up to 13.94V.

I took mine apart on an Audi 2.3E Coupe a couple of years back, cleaned
off the corrosion, and it was as good as new.

Just check the codes again and work the defect logically, rather than
throwing money at it on spec.

[vectrolosys]

Can be Alternator (Usually makes a whining noise and various lamps illuminate followed by blowing the alternator lamp) but jumping gauges can also be a symptom of cam / crank sensors on the X20XEV - definately seen this on one of my old 2.0 Vectras.

Admittedly, I had just completed a plus 4000RPM sustained run, just to clear the engine out. I think this would upset the alternator to a point. Not whirring atm and no lamps, other than the ECM illuminate when running, but the rev counter did jump slightly, which pointed me to thinking the alternator at the time.

I will replace anyway, just to be safe.

[vectrolosys]

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1153772945

Have a read of the above before splashing out on an alternator, especially
as yours is taking it up to 13.94V.

I took mine apart on an Audi 2.3E Coupe a couple of years back, cleaned
off the corrosion, and it was as good as new.

Just check the codes again and work the defect logically, rather than
throwing money at it on spec.

Thanks again . What voltage output is normal? 14-15 or is 13.94 normal?

[VXL V6]

I reckon the first code you'll get after flushing the ECU will be Cam Sensor and before replacing anything else i'd change that (Simple to change as well).

If you are planning on keeping the car and the alternator does prove to be faulty then i'd look at getting one on an exchange basis from a stealer or Bosch / Lucas (not sure what make they are) dealer, at least you know that your getting an as new part not somebodies 100K Mile ebay special.