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[vectrolosys]

As an other possibility :

Rough Running; Bad Knock Sensor. [Symptom:] Higher idle, no power; running rough at RPM higher than idle. It jerks every few seconds and there is no pattern to it. It idles and starts fine.
[Diagnosis:] Check the knock sensor, it senses knock (no kidding) and retards the timing. When this gets faulty, it will make the engine have very poor power, lousy and jerky acceleration, but will start and idle fine. It's a small black plastic covered unit bolted to the block (ten mil. bolt) under the intake man. with a plug attached to it.

and ....

nope.. I didnt read the second part what you write..if dont start when warm knock sensor is out of question..

I'm not discounting this sensor also, as if you hold the throttle at 2500RPM, it'll run but jump slightly and run lumpily. The hot starting issue is annoying though, as I have just replaced the crank sensor. As I am used to the 2.5 V6, I have no reference for performance on the 2.0, so I can't tell. However, with the fault codes I flashed off before, we seemed to think the knock sensor could be a candidate. May as well replace that as well, but this'll be as far as I take it.

[cem_devecioglu]

As an other possibility :

Rough Running; Bad Knock Sensor. [Symptom:] Higher idle, no power; running rough at RPM higher than idle. It jerks every few seconds and there is no pattern to it. It idles and starts fine.
[Diagnosis:] Check the knock sensor, it senses knock (no kidding) and retards the timing. When this gets faulty, it will make the engine have very poor power, lousy and jerky acceleration, but will start and idle fine. It's a small black plastic covered unit bolted to the block (ten mil. bolt) under the intake man. with a plug attached to it.

and ....

nope.. I didnt read the second part what you write..if dont start when warm knock sensor is out of question..

I'm not discounting this sensor also, as if you hold the throttle at 2500RPM, it'll run but jump slightly and run lumpily. The hot starting issue is annoying though, as I have just replaced the crank sensor. As I am used to the 2.5 V6, I have no reference for performance on the 2.0, so I can't tell. However, with the fault codes I flashed off before, we seemed to think the knock sensor could be a candidate. May as well replace that as well, but this'll be as far as I take it.

Hi
as I understand from the documents  knock sensors,cam sensor and crankshaft sensor are vital for the engine..Except knock sensors I change the others on my car..

Now going for that..But before I change all the serviceable parts in the alternator..Planning to use for long..

[TheBoy]

You have to deal with the 0335 which you should never see on a 4 pot.

Also, don't think disconnecting ECU clears codes. Certainly doesn't on Motronics...

[vectrolosys]

You have to deal with the 0335 which you should never see on a 4 pot.

Also, don't think disconnecting ECU clears codes. Certainly doesn't on Motronics...

I thought so, I have already put on a new crank sensor, cam sensor, MAF, Lambda, but I'll buy another Crank sensor and a knock sensor for it, if that does not solve the problem, a 2.0 will be up for grabs!!

[Marks DTM Calib]

A new cam sensor from Vx comes with a new length of loom.......you can read into that what you will.

Poor starting sounds like crank sensor to me, the cam sensor is only used for cylinder sequencing for sequential injection (or coil per plug but, it does not have this) so shoudl not have any major affect on starting.

[vectrolosys]

A new cam sensor from Vx comes with a new length of loom.......you can read into that what you will.

Poor starting sounds like crank sensor to me, the cam sensor is only used for cylinder sequencing for sequential injection (or coil per plug but, it does not have this) so shoudl not have any major affect on starting.

This is what I heard also, I got the sensor from Autovaux, they supplied the older style sensor as 'apparently' the new sensor was not much better than the older style one, how correct this is, I am not certan.

I'll be replacing the crank sensor again , and the knock sensor, as previously mentioned. Apart from that, has there ever been any cases of the loom itself being at fault?