Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[jayrudd74]

just bought a 1999, 3.0 omega mv6,manual , 77500 miles,£1000 ex plod car.only had it from tuesday got in the car to drive to work this morning(friday),started the car up but when i came to put the car in reverse it would not engage,then i  tryed to get it  into any gear but no luck,anybody any advice please!p.s did notice when the engine was turned off it would go into gear,and would drive but when changing gear was very rough! thanks

[toller]

Clutch drag?

[TheBoy]

Is it leaking coolant from the rear (ie HBV), as this can cause the clutch to drag apparently.

There is a procedure for checking if it is the clutch sticking, but can't remember - something about starting in 3rd.  I'm sure a regular will be able to answer that one soon.

[Grumpy]

There is a procedure for checking if it is the clutch sticking, but can't remember - something about starting in 3rd.

I had to do that on a Granada 4x4 to free the contaminated clutch when starting.

Engage third gear, depress clutch, and start engine. Gets a bit of a jolt   , but
frees it off to change gear until you next stop.

Check your clutch fluid level and bleed it, seeing as you're getting rough changes.
Check clutch hydraulic pipes for leakage.

Check bellhousing for engine or gearbox oil leaks due to possible seal failures,
allowing gearbox or engine oil to contaminate the clutch.

Check gearbox oil level in case some muppet has over filled it.

[jayrudd74]

might seem a bit dim here but only had the car 3 days and its the first time ive opened the bonnet where do i check the gearbox oil level and the clutch level!sorry for my ignorance

[Grumpy]

It's a combined brake and clutch fluid reservoir next to the drivers side suspension
strut, just behind your coolant header tank.

[jayrudd74]

plenty brake/clutch fluid there,cant see any coolant leaks either

[Tony H]

Is it leaking coolant from the rear (ie HBV), as this can cause the clutch to drag apparently.

There is a procedure for checking if it is the clutch sticking, but can't remember - something about starting in 3rd.  I'm sure a regular will be able to answer that one soon.

[/highlight]

[jayrudd74]

guess i will just srcap it,stealers(vauxhall) charge £72 an hour over here in belfast!think the guy i bought it off had a stripey jumper and had a swag bag so i cant win!!!

[Tony H]

guess i will just srcap it,stealers(vauxhall) charge £72 an hour over here in belfast!think the guy i bought it off had a stripey jumper and had a swag bag so i cant win!!!

That sounds a bit hasty I dont know what your cars worth because of limited info on your profile. If your not into spanner twirling yourself you may be able to find a good independent garage who will do the work far cheaper than the main stealers

[TheBoy]

The fluid level is checked by removing the level plug, and filling until it just comes out (as are most manual cars on the market).


£72 is cheap - my local dealer is £85 per hour. London ones over £100.  But find a good indepedent for half those rates...

[x25xe]

Could also be that the clutch itself is knackered.  Not in so far as it slips, but rather the some or all of the diaphragm springs are broken.  This would certainaly cause the issues you describe.

This happened to me recently, the clutch went in my Transit van - I was stopped at the bottom of a hill at red lights at the time - the only gear that would engage was 5th!  That was fun.  The only way I could engage reverse was by turning the engine off, engaging reverse and starting again.  Van was moving with the clutch fully depressed.

Popped a new clutch in and all was well again.  The diaphragm springs were shot - because a previous cowboy mechanic fitted a clutch plate that was too small.

Hope this helps

[Grumpy]

guess i will just srcap it

Can't believe I've just read that, especially on a manual MV6 with
77,500 on the clock! (I assume your mileage wasn't a typo?)

Have you done any of the checks I and others listed? They won't cost much and you can
do them yourself.

Check again at the bellhousing (big bulbous lump in between your engine and gearbox).
You are looking at the top for coolant leaks that are finding their way down to the
clutch plates.
You are looking at the bottom for signs of engine oil (Rear crankshaft seal failing and
contaminating the clutch with engine oil). Gearbox oil, (gearbox input shaft seal failure
contaminating the clutch with gearbox oil). Hydraulic fluid, (indicating a leak in the clutch
slave cylinder or pipework and an inability for the clutch to disengage with associated
difficult gear changes).

Instead of checking the gearbox oil which would entail jacking the car level, just change
it. One drain plug to empty it, one filler plug to undo to pour 1.2 litres of fresh fluid in.

Bleed the clutch in case the fluid level has run low and allowed air into the system. Air
compresses and hydraulic fluid doesn't, so if you have air you will just compress it instead of
disengaging the clutch. This is a one man job with a non return valve bleeding kit, or a
two man job with one man pressing slowly on the clutch pedal and one man opening
and closing the bleed screw on the gearbox.

If nothing works, then you disconnect the propshaft and remove the gearbox to check
and replace clutch and/or the slave cylinder.

Don't throw in the towel quite this early in the diagnosis period.  

[jayrudd74]

not looked at the car since last week,as ive been working away,thats why i have not replied to any your advice(thanks)jumped in the car today and i have noticed that the clutch pedal is not returning back up fully,when i put my foot under the pedal and lift it up it will then go into gear.would i be right in thinking the clutch is not adjustable with it being hydraulic.any clues thanks

[markey mark]

no mate it adjusts it self could just need the clutch bleeding bud !!