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[vectrolosys]

Hello,

I am having a nightmare with the fitment of my crank angle sensor. I initially fitted a new one and routed it round the PAS pump and up, however, the sensor failed, it appears as if the sheath melted, which means it must have come in contact with the exhaust manifold, despite being cable tied back.

I have acquired a new, genuine GM sensor and tried to fit this, using the proper route, which was interesting to get to!!.

I am now having trouble getting the bolt into the sensor to bolt it to the block, I have already lost two bolts into the depths of the car (hopefully not down the hole left by the dipstick tube!!!!!.

Does anyone have any tips on getting the sensor and bolt to mate up properly? also, does anyone know of a good mobile mechanic in the Bristol area, who'd be prepared to fit the sensor? I have tried to remove the engine mount, to no avail.

To be perfectly honest, I am close to throwing in the towel on this one. I have spent a lot of time trying to sort the cars niggling faults, such as the rear diff and numerous sensor faults. Admittedly, each repair has improved the car, but this one last stepping stone is rather big and I only have so much patience!!. This is my hobby, but I don't want to have to be out every weekend doing the same job, over and again under the bonnet, my wife is beginning to lose patience, as am I!!!!.

Thanks for any advice,

James.

[sophos9]

Hi mate,

When my crank sensor failed I just tie wrapped the new one up the brake lines and next to the ABS module, works a treat and is plenty clear of the manifold, no problems at all bolting it to the lump.

Personally I would have it out and route it the same  

The barge's are funny this right, I've just put a list of things right on mine and there are still some things to do, nice and cheap tho!!

[Kev]

Hi mate,

When my crank sensor failed I just tie wrapped the new one up the brake lines and next to the ABS module, works a treat and is plenty clear of the manifold, no problems at all bolting it to the lump.

Personally I would have it out and route it the same  

The barge's are funny this right, I've just put a list of things right on mine and there are still some things to do, nice and cheap tho!!

Likewise, i done the same without any problems.  :-?

[TheBoy]

I think James is referring to his 2.0, which is a bugger to fit if you have a/c

[sophos9]

God damn I always get caught out wit that... Sorry fella, what I said was for the v6      

[Grumpy]

I used mechanical fingers to hold my bolt secure, whilst I worked
blind, by touch, with the Dipstick Tube still in place.
This is what I mean.

http://www.setools.com/mechfing.shtml

With these locked around the bolt head, the bolt isn't going anywhere
until you release the tool.

Put something in your dipstick hole if you remove it, even if it's just
a dumpy screwdriver with a handle that's too big to fall in.

The lead is on the front side of the fitment hole, away from the exhaust,
so it naturally curves away from the exhaust system. You should be able
to work out a route that doesn't double back towards the exhaust
manifold.

[Kev]

God damn I always get caught out wit that... Sorry fella, what I said was for the v6      

Ditto.  

[Taxi_Driver]

I think James is referring to his 2.0, which is a bugger to fit if you have a/c

Isnt the 2.0 routed the same as the 2.2 then??

My 2.2 crank sensor wiring runs up from the sensor and goes in clips just behind the cambelt cover to the other side of the engine where it plugs into a connector  :-/

[vectrolosys]

I think James is referring to his 2.0, which is a bugger to fit if you have a/c

Isnt the 2.0 routed the same as the 2.2 then??

My 2.2 crank sensor wiring runs up from the sensor and goes in clips just behind the cambelt cover to the other side of the engine where it plugs into a connector  :-/

I think it is, but the route it takes involves going behind the PAS pump/AC Compressor carrier bracket, which is a tight fit and does not allow a huge amount of movement for the sensor, when trying to get the bolt in.

I have just been out and removed the left hand engine mount for added access, I am now leaving the car till next weekend before continuing, as I need to order a load more Torx bolts and an E10 socket, as this also got dropped into the depths of the engine bay (thankfully not down the dipstick hole!!).

Removing the mount does allow a greater level of access, which is beneficial, if rather overkill.

James