So as not to worry you, Brett1408, I'll start by saying if your
Oil Pressure light is not illuminating, and you're not getting
any knocking/ tapping noises, then, as folk say, it's probably a
sensor or wiring problem.
But what needs to be remembered, is that the Oil level checked
with engine static is not what the situation will be with the engine
running.
Car engines are oil pressure fed but gravity scavenge return to the
sump. In other words, the scavenge return (gravity fed) must be
greater than the pressure feed or you'll just empty your sump into
the oil galleries/ cam boxes/ oil cooler.
To give an example, I once had a Peugeot 305. Whilst under warranty
the oil pressure light illuminated. I gave it an oil and filter change to
start off at a known good point. When I looked at the old oil, it was full
of granulated lumps. What had happened, was that the camchain guide
had broken up and the bits were clogging the oil pick up pipe and the filter.
Had it repaired under warranty. It drove away ok, engine hot, but next
morning, when the engine and oil was cold, the oil pressure warning light
came on again until the engine and oil had warmed up.
I took of the cam box, wrapped plenty of rags around the edge and started
the engine so that I could get visual confirmation of oil flow to the cam area.
Couldn't believe what I saw. The ham fisted ape who had repaired it had
damaged the camshaft ends by hammering them to remove the camshaft.
Oil was pumping out of them full bore. The gravity scavenge return hadn't
a hope in hell in returning the oil to the sump faster than the oil pump could
pump it out again. Only when the oil was hotter and thinner, was it gravity
flowing fast enough to return to the sump, feed the pump, and just put out
the oil pressure light.
In the case described by Sassanach, it's possible that part of the oil was been pumped
into the water section of the oil cooler instead of flowing back to the sump.
Thus the check oil warning.
I don't know how long you've had the car, so I don't know if you know the
grade of Oil in your car. If it's too thick, especially as the weather is getting
colder, I would do an oil and filter change so that you know the correct grade
of oil is being used.
I would also be tempted to flush the system, to ensure there are no partial
blockages that are restricting your scavenge return. However, the V6 experts
on this forum say that this can sometimes cause problems by dislodging muck.
So it's best you are guided by them in this respect. Not me.
Any V6 expert on here care to comment? Especially with any knowledge
of known scavenge return weak points?
Or the merits/demerits of flushing the V6?