Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[6cylinderman]

Hi fellas,

I've bought a 2002 Omega 3.2 with 50k.  It hasn't turned a wheel since November at least and only then it was started only briefly to come on/off a low loader.  I bought the car in the knowledge that it had suspected head gasket failure, but having done my research in the FAQ section first, this may not be the case.  My hope is that this has been misdiagnosed.  Anyway, here are the symptoms:

1)  There is oil contamination in the coolant expansion reservoir.  To be more specific, the reservoir is dyed brown and there are a few floaters in there along with "mayo" on the cap.  

2)  The coolant isn't dyed i.e. its water and has been topped up with water as it's lost some coolant.

3)  There's some light smattering of mayo on the oil filler neck and cap, but absolutely none on the dip stick.

I'm hoping it's a combination of a failed oil cooler and heater bypass valve?  I'm no mechanic, so could the more knowledgable please help me out?  

[Timbuk]

Sounds like oil cooler

[MutantCav]

Failed oil cooler for sure

[Dazzler]

Does sound like the oil cooler. Don't think HBV problem unless you can see it leaking.....

[shyboy]

You'll soon get very authorative opinions, but it sounds a classic oil cooler failure to me. Not necessarily a failed HBV as well, but if I'm right you're going to have to replace the oil cooler and flush the coolant system with special stuff to get rid of the gunge. A lenghty process I understand. Best to replace the HBV as well whilst you have better access to it.
A failed HG more commonly causes serious overheating and usually evidence of water in the sump, so if there is no mayo on the dipstick you may not have a failed HG. It's rare on the V6, apparently.
Stainless steel oil coolers are available which will obviously ensure a longer life.

[Craig_R]

Dont forget if a car has mega mega over heated the oil in the sump will start to coagulate.

As I said in your other post I think its a oil cooler but the boys will be along to say 100%

[Kevin Wood]

Souns like oil cooler.

Probably worth replacing the HBV, if there's any doubt, as well while you're at it, as it will be well gunged up (as will the rest of the cooling system). It'll need thorough flushing to remove this once done. I believe there's a Forte product specifically for flushing oil contaminated cooling systems. Have a look on ebay.

If it has been running with a weak coolant mix it could have been that which caused the oil cooler to fail so keep an eye out for evidence of leaks which would have prompted topping up (with water, by the sound of it ).

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Its oil cooler.....but also remember this.....after stopping the engine the coolant stays pressurised long after the oil pressure has dropped away so you often still get some coolant in the oil.

[Dazzler]

You will need to do several system flushes, so i would use Trafficfilm remover to start with to get most of the system clean. Then you can use Forte Cooling System Flush to finish off.

[stuvaux]

Stainless steel oil coolers are available which will obviously ensure a longer life.

My car has same problem. Had water leak for a while, now there is oil in header tank.....gonna sort it at the weekend...

Where is best place for new oil cooler, and are the stainless steel ones better?

Stu

[davlad22]

Its oil cooler.....but also remember this.....after stopping the engine the coolant stays pressurised long after the oil pressure has dropped away so you often still get some coolant in the oil.

So, do you have to 'flush' the engine oil as well then? Forte?

[6cylinderman]

Thanks for the info, guys.  Phew!  Boy am I glad it' s the oil cooler and not the HG.     I'll see to those other jobs while I'm at it.  

I second the question: "Should the engine oil also be flushed?".  I don't suppose it would do any harm.

Thanks again.  I'll keep you all posted on my progress with "Project Plod".

[Jay w]

Stainless steel oil coolers are available which will obviously ensure a longer life.

My car has same problem. Had water leak for a while, now there is oil in header tank.....gonna sort it at the weekend...

Where is best place for new oil cooler, and are the stainless steel ones better?

Stu

Autovaux are a good place for oil coolers.

Whilst it may be a stainless one they supply remember that regular coolant/antifreeze changes will help to prolong the life of the cooler.

Flushing a system that has been contaminated can be a bit of a pain by all accounts

[shyboy]

The consensus of opinion on here seems to be against flushing oil as it can theoretically move gunge to places where it can do more harm than if sitting in non-critical places.
My 2.0l had not had oil changed for a stupidly long time, so I went against the convention and used a flushing oil and then changed the new oil again after 2.5k miles. No apparent ill effects, but I suppose only time will tell. I honestly don't anticipate any problems. (Fingers etc. crossed).
If your engine has had water in the oil, or serious overheating, it may have caused gunge to invade the oil galleries etc. so flushing may be justifiable in this case. It could be the lesser of two evils.
Hopefully someone else will offer an opinion based on actual experience.
Good luck with the repairs.

[Jay w]

Its oil cooler.....but also remember this.....after stopping the engine the coolant stays pressurised long after the oil pressure has dropped away so you often still get some coolant in the oil.

So, do you have to 'flush' the engine oil as well then? Forte?

drain the oil out, put a new filter on and then do a few more within a few thousand miles