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[stuvaux]

Decided to replace oil cooler today....

All was going well until I tried to remove the coolant bridge.....one of the bolts snapped off.....

Can anyone suggest a way of removing the rest of the bolt, and the best place to get a replacement bolt....

Thanks,

Stu

[Dazzler]

Completely remove the coolant bridge first.
You should then find you can unscrew the rest of the bolt quite easily.
As for new bolts and seals, get them from a main dealer matey

[stuvaux]

Ok mate, thanks...

The coolant bridge is completely removed now, and I put some penetrating oil on the broken bolt to leave overnight.....
Any suggestions for removing the bolt if it decides to be stubborn?

Also, do the dealers sell the bolts seperately then?

Thanks again,

Stu

[Dazzler]

Yes they sell the banjo bolts and washers/seals seperately mate.
You should be able to turn quite easily...
Did it snap off flush or is ther some still poking up enough to get mole grips onto??

[stuvaux]

Did it snap off flush or is ther some still poking up enough to get mole grips onto??

Yes, there is quite a bit of the bolt still sticking through....I will give it a go tomorrow then....

My mates brother came and had a look (he works at the garage I was using), and he seemed to think the head would need to come off so it could be sent somewhere for the bolt to be removed.....
I did think at the time that this seemed a little pessimistic..... :-/

Thanks again for the advice,

Stu

[Dazzler]

If it proves a little tight give it a few lightish taps with a hammer, this shocks the threads and sometimes allows for easier removal.
But i don't think you should have a problem.

[stuvaux]

Ok mate, I will let you know the outcome tomorrow.....

Thanks  

Stu

[hotel21]

If you have access to a mig welder, get a nut of similar size (thread not really important) and screw it onto the best of whats sticking out.  Weld the nut to the stud remains.  Cool it all down with plusgas (not WD40) and let it soak.  Use a good fitting socket on the nut to unscrew.  The combination of heat from welding and plusgas should do the trick....

Note - I have not used this on the coolant bridge bolts, so unsure of access.  Had good effect with others elsewhere though....  

[stuvaux]

If you have access to a mig welder, get a nut of similar size (thread not really important) and screw it onto the best of whats sticking out.  Weld the nut to the stud remains.  Cool it all down with plusgas (not WD40) and let it soak.  Use a good fitting socket on the nut to unscrew.  The combination of heat from welding and plusgas should do the trick....

Note - I have not used this on the coolant bridge bolts, so unsure of access.  Had good effect with others elsewhere though....  

Thanks mate

Hopefully it will come off easily, but thanks for suggesting an alternative way....

Do you know if it is possible to buy a 'reverse threaded bolt', to screw in there to remove it?  And if so, where I could buy one of these.....
Not sure if they're called 'easy out/off' or something like that.... :-?

Stu

[hotel21]

Lots of various things.  Easy outs, left hand thread drill bits and such.  Potential problem is that you snap one of these hardened steel gizmo's in the remains of the stud.  Then it IS a head off job to repair properly......

Would suggest the welder route first....  If its snaps again, you have lost nowt.  Then look for the left hand drills and similar....  

[stuvaux]

Ok mate, thanks for the advice (and warning....!)

I will have a go at it tomorrow, and let you know on here....Watch this space.....

Stu

[hotel21]

The idea of tapping the stud with a hammer as you unscrew works as well.  Depending on access, mole grips and a small hammer may do the job.  If its snaps, you are rubber ducked though and are now on the head removal path.  Would go the weld route, socket, extension, T bar and hammer to do the biz.....

Good luck.    

[stuvaux]

The idea of tapping the stud with a hammer as you unscrew works as well.  Depending on access, mole grips and a small hammer may do the job.  If its snaps, you are rubber ducked though and are now on the head removal path.  Would go the weld route, socket, extension, T bar and hammer to do the biz.....

Good luck.    

Thanks mate....

Hopefully I will get there tomorrow, and the bolt will just come straight out..... ....hopefully....

Thanks for the advice  

Stu

[JamesV6CDX]

Sounds like this has been pretty well covered, but I have broken a few coolant bridge bolts   and I find that a 17mm "magic" gripping socket gets it every time, as long as there's about 3mm or more of thread remaining..

[stuvaux]

Thanks to everyone for the advice....

Got the bolt out today. Tried 'easy-outs' but they didn't work.
Soaked the thing in WD40 (didn't have any plusgas or access to a welder for the other method....), then tapped it with a small hammer and chisel...

Thought it might just break off, which it did at first. But finally it did start to move, and slowly it came out. Now I've just got to get the new bolts and washers tomorrow, and fit it all back together (once my mates garage closes at 5.30.... )

Thanks again for all the help  

Stu

P.S. James, what exactly is a 17mm magic gripping socket?