correct full points to you, time up the engine,AND LOCK WITH MOLE GRIP , remove old belt etc, fit full new belt kit, tentioners and ideler pulleys, start at crank with belt mark to crank mark ,fit in a anticlock wise direction, twin lines on belt will aligne with cam marks,when its all on ,adjust right tention anticlock wise, making sure nothing moves, then do same to left tentioner anticlockwise, recheck nothings moved, REMOVE THE MOLE GRIPS, turn engine 2 turns, all belt marks will be out of agline now,adjust again in the same order but tention clock wise this time, recheck nothings moved,set final tention 2,3 mm job done , put back together ,THEN GO TO PUB
To explain a little.
Most engines, you can get away with your method (though on this type of engine, I'd rather spend £4.99 on the correct wedge that damage sintered cam sprockets

). This type of engine generally has no adjustment - its either right, or a tooth out. If its right, and you dont make a mess of the tensioner, then job done.
The GM V6 has infinately adjustable timing. This has advantages (being able to time up perfectly, despite tolerances in manufacture etc) and disadvantages (it needs the proper locking/timing tools!). Presumable you are changing the entire kit (as its usually the idlers/tensioner that fails), not just the belt, which means you are disturbing the timing. Seeing as the marks on the cam cover back plate are just rough markings to assist with initial belt install, you have no accurate way of checking - and it will be out, because you have replaced the infinately adjustable idlers. Even if you were by pure luck bang on with both banks - highly unlikely - you may be off with the crank not being perfectly at TDC (and remember, as its infinately adjustable valve timing, being 'near' like many other engines won't be good enough).
Hope that clarifies things a little.