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Author Topic: camber  (Read 1904 times)

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psnimv6

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camber
« on: 14 March 2008, 19:47:02 »

hello can anybody give me the right setting for the front camber on my 01 mv6 46000 miles (if there is such a thing ::)) as it is eating full sets of new tyres in less than 4500 miles and i am well sick of this, as i live in n ireland wheel in motion is a little out of the way for me but my brothers work has a full 4 wheel alighment set up but not sure what figures to set it to ,can anybody give me a pointer to set it to thanks in advance
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Richard A

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Re: camber
« Reply #1 on: 14 March 2008, 20:19:43 »

When new: Saloon Front Camber -1deg 40' +/- 45', Front Castor 5deg 40' +/- 1deg, Toe-in 0deg 10' +/- 10', Rear Camber -1deg 50' +/- 40', Toe-in -0deg 20' +/- 10'. Hope this gives you a starting point, good luck.
regards
richard
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JasonH

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Re: camber
« Reply #2 on: 14 March 2008, 20:31:06 »

I find the toe tolerance quite wide - you can really feel the difference even when it's within spec.

Close to max toe in gives the best feel and best tyre wear.

In mm that's +1mm each side, total of +2mm. Mines at +1.7mm and spot on.

Before you get it all set up make sure the wishbones are in good shape. Only £20 a side and they fail a lot.
« Last Edit: 14 March 2008, 20:31:54 by JasonH »
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JasonH

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Re: camber
« Reply #3 on: 14 March 2008, 20:32:52 »

How do I know - well changed the wishbones twice and the track rods 3 times. Each time getting the geometry done properly......
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psnimv6

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Re: camber
« Reply #4 on: 14 March 2008, 20:38:37 »

thanks for the reply,s my wishbones are only new genuine vx about 6 weeks ago so they are fine but the car is a b**ch to drive on our ropey roads in n ireland with torque steer type symptoms as well as brutal tyre wear
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Big_Roger

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Re: camber
« Reply #5 on: 14 March 2008, 20:41:01 »

Hi,
I had the same problem, and suspected the camber to be wrong.

I had 4 wheel laser set up check.

The camber wasn't very far out, not enough for the scale of the problem, or to really need correction.

What was the problem, was that although the toe in measurement for both axles was correct, the front and rear axles were not in line with each other.
They had to slacken one side and shorten other side on adjustments for both axles to get the rear axle thrust angle and the front steer ahead angles equal.

Car steers and handles like a dream now, 3000 miles and tyres still look like new.

HTH

Roger
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Be patient ! Something else will go wrong for you to fix if you wait long enough !!

psnimv6

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Re: camber
« Reply #6 on: 14 March 2008, 21:05:39 »

would this cut both the front tyres on the inside edge although i also have bad rear tyre wear but i put that down to the LSD because they wear really level just don,t last long, the last set was goodyear f1,s and they only were on 4-5000 miles >:( and they were completely bald and the set on know is also almost bald after only about 4-5000 miles :-? it is a real pain on tyres as i am sure you will agree and it needs sorted or it will be for sale real soon ;D
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Big_Roger

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Re: camber
« Reply #7 on: 14 March 2008, 21:21:47 »

Hi,
On mine when I had the problem:
1- The steering was always pulling very slightly to the left, and was affected by the camber of the road, and wear ruts in the road.

2- Steering wheel was not centralised.

3- The front two tyres had 5 mm of tread over most of the width of the tyre, but the inside edge of each was chamfered off at about 45% and through to the canvas & steel belt

4- The nearside rear tyre was wearing away about quarter of width of the tyre on the inside edge.

5- The off side rear just wearing badly.

HTH

Roger
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Be patient ! Something else will go wrong for you to fix if you wait long enough !!

TheBoy

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Re: camber
« Reply #8 on: 14 March 2008, 21:44:31 »

Trouble with the specified camber range is its too wide - mine was in spec, but was eating front tyres in 6-8k
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psnimv6

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Re: camber
« Reply #9 on: 14 March 2008, 21:52:49 »

what would i need to set the camber at ,is there a correct setting or does it depend on each car?what would you recommend? please someone give me a number to set the machine to  :(
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Entwood

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Re: camber
« Reply #10 on: 14 March 2008, 21:54:34 »

Lifted straight from the Wheels In Motion site ...  I would suggest you contact them ....
 
Quote
Camber is the vertical position of the wheel..

It's duty is to maintain the position of the cars weight at about mid-point of the tyre footprint.

The force generated by the camber is conically compressive... This is achieved by deforming the circumference of the tyre sidewall, forcing both front tyres to roll into the cars centre line.

But there is a problem?
The suggested position for the front camber is 1 degree 40' negative (top of wheel leaning toward the car)

Over time the front coil springs will weaken lowering the cars sprung area... This not only changes the camber position it also changes the dynamic camber gains... So a calculated gain from -1 degree 40' on the bump to 2 degrees 10' is exceeded.... maybe to 2 degrees 50'.

A dynamic average per mile maybe 2 degrees 30'.

So what you say!
Most Japanese manufacturers offer a progressive calibration table that allows the operator to measure the actual body height and categorize the changes required to compensate for the new dynamic positions, historically this means less static camber.

Unfortunately this table is not available for the Omega... So if you have worn coils and tyre wear the shop will set the camber to the OEM 1 degree 40' negative.... Thus the problem returns and the forum chatter will offer other criminals like wishbones and alike.

Whats the difference?
Camber tyre wear involves about 10% of the total tyre width.... It's very violent wear and can reduce a new tyre to the wire in 5k.

Wishbone wear allows tyre contact rolling resistance to change the toe position... The tyre wear is lateral and involves the entire tread...Additionally on the bump and under braking the car usually pulls.

What to do?
Geometry positions are not absolute law... In fact it borders the theoretical on most cars even with progressive tables. wheels-inmotion (wim) wrote new calibration positions for the Omega some years ago.... I think you would understand it's commercial suicide to display the actual settings although we are willing to help out of sight

http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk
« Last Edit: 14 March 2008, 21:55:15 by entwood »
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psnimv6

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Re: camber
« Reply #11 on: 14 March 2008, 21:57:39 »

the problem is i live in n ireland so a bit to far for me to go i think you will agree :y
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Entwood

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Re: camber
« Reply #12 on: 14 March 2008, 22:00:55 »

If you speak to them they may be able to give you the figures you are after, they are without doubt the experts on Omega setup ... what do you have to lose by contacting them ?? If they say "no" (unlikely IMHO) you are in exactly the same position you are now ....  if they say "yes" ... ...  :)
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TheBoy

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Re: camber
« Reply #13 on: 14 March 2008, 22:02:11 »

Quote
the problem is i live in n ireland so a bit to far for me to go i think you will agree :y
Try their forum.  Geometry is Wheels-InMotion's business, so may be unwilling to publically post his knowledge, but as you won't ever be a custonmer, may be willing to private give you clues...
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psnimv6

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Re: camber
« Reply #14 on: 14 March 2008, 22:04:45 »

i wonder would tony from wheels in motion pm me the setting as i will  definatly not be able to attend him in person and would have the manners and respect not to tell any body on any of these forums what do you think a bit cheaky i no but worth a try
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