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[mojo]

hi again,

On my 2.0 16V 1998 X20XEV omega the engine management light is illuminated.  The friendly neighbourhood garage attached his Tech2 & displayed the above fault code.

He changed the cam shaft sensor, & adjusted the timing belt but the light stubbornly stayed on.  So I got him to renew the crankshaft sensor as well & replace with a new timing belt kit.  The light refuses to go off & the car still sounds poorly.  The mechanic seems pretty stumped, but from reading on the forums & past problems, Im beginning to wonder if this could be an earthing fault?
I am not any kind of tecchie, but after disconnecting the plug that attaches the Random  alarm sounder, it still goes off!  Ive no idea how this could be but this only happens when it rains.

Any kind of supporting help from other Omega survivors is really needed plz.  I desperatley want to keep the car, but its fast becoming a bottomless money pit

Has anybody had any similar type of problems at all?

[Taxi_Driver]

If the EML is still on......whats it compalining of now? There still must be a fault code stored.......i assume your garage has cleared the codes.

[rickyboy]

As taxi driver says, get the codes read again.  You don't need to take it to the garage to do this.  Follow the guide in the link below and it will show you how to flash the codes using a paperclip - remember to count 10 flashes as a 0.  

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687

If it is still reading the same codes you can reset them by turning the ignition on to 2, wait for the abs and seatbelt lights to go off then turn off the ignition again.  Do this between 25 and 30 times and the Engine Management Light (EML) should go out.  Post your results again here.

[Andy B]

.....  Do this between 25 and 30 times and the Engine Management Light (EML) should go out.  Post your results again here.

No it doesn't.
If the EML is on, then the car is still seeing a fault of some kind. Turning the ignition on & off 20 odd times will only clear the fault out of the ECU's memory once the fault has been cleared.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Two questions

1) Were they good quality genuine sensors?

2) Did they look at the cam sensor postion when re-fitted as some cheaper ones have a bit of slop in them.

I assume the cam belt tension is correct.

Some of the cheap crank sensors are also a sloppy fit and can give such symptoms

[rickyboy]

.....  Do this between 25 and 30 times and the Engine Management Light (EML) should go out.  Post your results again here.

No it doesn't.
If the EML is on, then the car is still seeing a fault of some kind. Turning the ignition on & off 20 odd times will only clear the fault out of the ECU's memory once the fault has been cleared.

Don't know if it's different on your engine/ECU but this method and disconnecting the battery for an hour or so has worked for me on several occasions, don't care if anyone says different.

[mojo]

Two questions

1) Were they good quality genuine sensors?

2) Did they look at the cam sensor postion when re-fitted as some cheaper ones have a bit of slop in them.

I assume the cam belt tension is correct.

Some of the cheap crank sensors are also a sloppy fit and can give such symptoms

Thanks for all your quick responses.
Mark the timing kit and the crank sensor are genuine but the cam sensor was from a motor factors near to the garage.

However, the cam sensor did look ok & came with the modification sensor plug, although my omega already had the rounded plug fitted.
The mechanic has cleared the codes a few times with the Tech2 but the EM light comes on straight after starting the car.

He actually adjusted the cam belt tension before replacement of the sensor & the enitire timing kit, but the EM light was still illuminating.
He's stumped himself & is suggesting an Auto electrician as my car is taking up garage space.  Im avoiding this as it could mean 'open circuit', I mean Wallet surgery!
I think he'll continue helping if I can come with possible solution, hopefully from this forum.

Should I buy a genuine cam sensor & see if that makes a difference?

[rickyboy]

Genuine vauxhall parts are always recommended for sensors.  Very common that the generic versions of the sensors will not work.  Make sure the codes haven't changed though, they need to be read again for a proper diagnosis.

[mojo]

Just an update:
I bought a genuine cam sensor today & left it with the garage to fit tomorrow, hopefully should have some luck with this.

I did read on here somewhere though about revving the engine over 4500 rpm to see if it misfires & which apparentley means cam sensor isnt doing its job, or something like this?

I gave it a few go's on my Omega and sure enough she does cough & splutter just over 4500, but the mechanic says its because they engine has a 'cut out' which kicks in to avoid the engine blowing.  But no idea myself what any of this means.

[mojo]

Problem Sorted

The Genuine cam sensor has done the trick, the EM light is off now & the car is running ok again.
The car also revs over 4500rpm now without misfire.
Now ive just to get get rid of the airbag light!

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Much appreciated.