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[daveball]

The passenger door on my 3L 1999 Elite does not stay open and traps legs. It appears that the mountings for the door check link inside the door have been torn away, leaving some metal that was obvously spot welded to the door. There appears two ways of repair. 1 Try to weld some new metal to the door for the check link to mount on. 2 Buy a new(second hand) door. Whats the chances of welding new metal to the check link mount without destroying the outside door finish??  How good a match on colour would I get if I manage to get a second hand silver door. How many "Silvers" were around??

Another intriguing thought whilst I have been dismantling the door. I didn't know that I had side air bags but they are there. How do they work when they are totally enclosed in door skin and trim. Do they just reinforce the door on a side impact??

Dave

[HolyCount]

VX do a repair kit for this -- basically two plates either side of the torn mounting with longer bolts through ... however, depending on the extent of the tear, the guy who did my respraying did the same job using large washers either side of the original mounting, bolted through.

[bruce]

Dave,
 The airbags are not in the doors, they are in the drivers and passengers back rest, if you have a look at the sides of the back rest you'll see the panel's, it's the airbag sensor that's in the door.

[TheBoy]

airbag sensor in door, airbag itself in seat

[willyboy]

VX do a repair kit for this -- basically two plates either side of the torn mounting with longer bolts through ... however, depending on the extent of the tear, the guy who did my respraying did the same job using large washers either side of the original mounting, bolted through.

Oh thanks for info on that one my driver doors gone same way no bracket will have a look asap...boy wish I had a big garage !

[daveball]

Thanks for the replies.  I always look for the hard way to do things. I'm not sure there's enough metal left to use the double plate idea, it's torn out a large chunk, hope there is.  Any advice on adhesive or sealer to stick back the plastic sheet, I believe it's got to be air tight for the door sensor to work, and it tore a bit whilst removing the bottom edge.

Dave

[daveball]

Just to add to the thread, I've just been in touch with my local Vauxhall agent, the parts dept said that they don't stock a repair kit, the body shop said there is a Field repair kit but it equires welding in place and would cost me £210 max if they did it. Not a bank breaking charge but if there is a screw on bit could someone tell me the part No.  I am tempted to cut some metal plate and try to make my own, I think the tear out is bigger than could be fixed by washers, but if something is available I'd like to know.

Dave

[Marks DTM Calib]

There is a field repair for the door end of the check strap.

Have a read of this maintenance guide:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152902108

It lists the part numbers that the dealer needs to order.

As an additional pointer for the dealer, its part of field remedy E0001291

[HolyCount]

Just to add to the thread, I've just been in touch with my local Vauxhall agent, the parts dept said that they don't stock a repair kit, the body shop said there is a Field repair kit but it equires welding in place and would cost me £210 max if they did it. Not a bank breaking charge but if there is a screw on bit could someone tell me the part No.  I am tempted to cut some metal plate and try to make my own, I think the tear out is bigger than could be fixed by washers, but if something is available I'd like to know.

Dave

Hmmm -- field repair kit mentioned in the thread Marks DTM posted up doesn't say anything about welding required -- are you dealers talking about the same thing

[daveball]

I gave up in the end, cut up 4 pieces of 1.5mm steel plate to fit over the tearouts either side of the moving arm, with holes drilled to accept the fixing bolts of the assembly and used them to sandwich the tear. I couldn't find any washers of the right size.  Seems to work OK, but for other reasons, one day soon I intend to buy a MIG welder and will weld the plates in place, hopefully without upseting the paintwork on the outside of the door, I was pleasantly surprised how easily the door was removed to do the job.

Dave

[ians]

You have basically described what the field kit does (and it is bolt on ,not welded).

I don't think you need to touch the plastic membrane to get the check strap mechanism out (from memory).

[HolyCount]

You have basically described what the field kit does (and it is bolt on ,not welded).
I don't think you need to touch the plastic membrane to get the check strap mechanism out (from memory).

Methinks the dealer was creating "job opportunities"!

[daveball]

Thanks for replies

No you don't need to remove the plastic cover, but of course I went at the job without thinking. I could have removed the speaker and gone in through the speaker hole leaving the plastic undisturbed but I didn't.

You probably don't need to take the door off either, but it came off so easily, and made working on the job a doddle rather than bending my old bones and I could see what I was doing. I had to do a bit of metal bashing to straighten out the torn bits.

dave

[Andy B]

You have basically described what the field kit does (and it is bolt on ,not welded).
I don't think you need to touch the plastic membrane to get the check strap mechanism out (from memory).

Methinks the dealer was creating "job opportunities"!

Not really. He was quoting to do all the repair as per the field repair. I you search through here, I posted the whole repair up, & there is a panel that you drill out the spot welds for & re-weld a new panel in. the panel is a couple of quid, I have one in my garage somewhere, but I have just the bolt repair to my door & a coulple of years dwn the line it's still OK.