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[Bionic]

Elite 2.5 Auto. I have just had my Air Con checked and topped up and a U/V dye added in case of future problems with possible leaks. I even bought a U/V lamp to look for any problems myself.
After the top up the temperature was not as cool as I had expected as my previous cars all had far lwer temperaturesw from their AirCons. I have checked for leaks using my U/V lamp but the only trace of dye I can see is around where it was put into the system using the low pressure port, and even that is not excessive until you remove the black cap. The AirCon system appears to be working and there are no fault codes displayed.
Can anyone tell me what the temperature should be with the Climate Control set to LO?
I now have great heaters since changing the HBV.
Any ideas??
Ray

[feeutfo]

5 to 6 degrees at the vent should be possible. Obviously make sure its not on eco. as that turns the ac pump off.

[razzo]

have you looked at the condenser for leaks with the UV light

[Bionic]

Looked at condenser in total darkness with U/V light and saw no flourescence at all. The only trace I could see was where the dye had been put in at the low pressure port and it was a lot brighter when I took the black cap off. The ECO switch is in the off position too. As far as I can tell the Climate Control Sysytem is working fine, it is only the AirCon output temperature that is worrying.

[TheBoy]

Looked at condenser in total darkness with U/V light and saw no flourescence at all. The only trace I could see was where the dye had been put in at the low pressure port and it was a lot brighter when I took the black cap off. The ECO switch is in the off position too. As far as I can tell the Climate Control Sysytem is working fine, it is only the AirCon output temperature that is worrying.

Has the vac hose come off HBV?

[Bionic]

As far as I can tell the vac pipe is on the HBV, at least it is on the HBV end. I can only presume that the other end is connected as I cannot see where it goes and the heaters now work perfectly via the Climate Control.

[JohnM]

Have you got a temperature probe?
To test you'll need full cooling on re-circ and it'll take a while (probe in at the vents).
- can try one here if you want a drive out.

I don't think the pre & min-facelifts are as cool (instantly) as the full facelifts & BMWs but you'll still know it is working or not.  And running continually on full (Lo) can't be good for your health.

I've not done anything with mine since it's full repair but seem to think they were claiming 4.xC (which I doubt), others have recently posted 6.5C in the vents.  It is supposed to be inhibitted below 4.0C except for screen demisting to prevent ice formation - but when the *outside* temp was -+0C last winter mine still worked, obviously inside was warmer.

If you have too much gas in it can trip the HP switch when hot (ambient) and so the comp. will stop (you'll see this from the engine).  [On a 2.5L] There are no indications inside when you have LP or HP trip (other than the cabin tempetaure).  There is no figure for the temp on lo, it is running continuously the best it can and should knock off the engine water (heating) at the hbv.

HTH.

[Bionic]

Hmmmm,
I put a digital temp probe into the fascia vent and it registered 20, a fair bit more than 4 or 6! I had the system serviced in March and they did a full discharge and vacuum then a re-charge and added a dye. The vents were not exactly cold then but it was hot day and only a few minutes after the end of the job. Cost me £40.00 though! Anyway, I am taking it back to them tomoz at 0830 for them to see if there is any leaks or whatever because it is not as it should be and the owner/s have three omega's between them so they opught to be able to sort it. I will place another post after I have been with the result.

[TheBoy]

20C is ambient air.  Should be easy to get down below 10C on Omega.

[Bionic]

That's what I mean, it cannot be right when the airflow from the facia vents is 20 and the outside temp is 13.5. I even tested the digital probe ouitside and it confirmed the readings of the onboard external temp sensor.
There was blown 30amp fuse in the underbonnet fusebox. The fuse was the centre one of 3 in a row, the left 2 being a 30 and the one to the right a 10 followed by a relay.
I do not know what this fuse relates to but I replaced it with no apparant effect. Perhaps you can tell me what it controls as it makes no mention in the workshop manual by haynes, or in the Omega handbook that came with the car.
Ray

[TheBoy]

Tech2 on climate panel will reveal that the cliamte panel thinks is going on...

Is A/C compressor engaging?

[Bionic]

How can I tell?
I only presumed the system was in order because I had paid for and had an AirCon service with evacuation, recharge and a dye added to enable them to check for leaks at a later date if the system stopped working. As they had the AirCon running while they did the re-charge I presumed that everything that ought to work was working.
I am taking it back to them this morning at 0830 so that they can check for leaks and I will quiz them then and post the results.

[Dave-C]

Tech2 on climate panel will reveal that the cliamte panel thinks is going on...

Is A/C compressor engaging?[/quote]

My thoughts entirely....

One more thing, if the multiplug on the radiator temp switch (Below the battery kinda area) is ill fitting, that'll stop it kicking in too.....  I neglected to fit mine properly after a rad change... thought I'd bust the condenser

As said though 5 ish degrees C at vents.... 8-)

[dbug]

How can I tell? I only presumed the system was in order because I had paid for and had an AirCon service with evacuation, recharge and a dye added to enable them to check for leaks at a later date if the system stopped working. As they had the AirCon running while they did the re-charge I presumed that everything that ought to work was working.
I am taking it back to them this morning at 0830 so that they can check for leaks and I will quiz them then and post the results.

Crawl under car and undo elec plug on compressor (front passenger side of engine).  Put 12V feed direct onto compressor terminals (ensure correct polarity) - you will hear clutch engage if compressor ok.  Normal reason compressor fails is clutch fails.

[feeutfo]

or if it has no gas, the clutch will disengage to save the pump. Oil runs with the gas/refriegerant the pump will stop to protect itself. You can see the if pump turning, with engine running and ac on, look for the pump in engine bay bottom right pulley with 4 round knobs, general rule, if they are turning it has gas if not you got a leak.
Ps Probably a bit late now, hes gone out to get them to fix it.