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[prbw]

Here's something different!  Sometimes when I switch off the ignition the key will not turn fully back to allow removal.  The only answer seems to be to restart the engine, pull the transmission lever back into drive (its an auto), then back to park and try again.  It sometime takes 3 or 4 tries and I've only noticed it when when parked with the back of the car lower than the front - and never with the front end lower.  Apart from the obvious - any ideas, anyone?

[ians]

Firstly - welcome to the forum
Secondly - update your profile with your car details, and preferably location - it helps a lot.
Thirdly - ah , now you need the question answering... There is an interlock on some (all?) cars that stop you taking the key out without putting it in Park.  Maybe that is not releasing?  If you leave the key in, does the barrel get warm?  

[prbw]

Thanks for the response - I will update!  Yes, I did notice that the barrel was warm on one occasion, but I don't know whether it happens every time.  I will check on future occurrences.

[TheBoy]

There is a guide in Maintenence Guides section which explains how to deburr the tumblers

[ians]

I wonder if this is the problem Kevin Wood had with the solenoid at the ignition barrel not releasing.  Really need Kevin to describe the symptoms in more detail..  but I remember him saying the area of the barrell got noticably warm.

[feeutfo]

personally never had a problem with the barrell that a bloody good squirt of white grease could not fix, be prepared to get grease in your pocket from the key though, but on the other hand i never had your "exact" symptoms. Is this to do with the parking lock? I.e. the locking lever on the dif. Maybe its set a bit tight(if thats how it works)and the reverse load is holding it too tight. My old omega used to bang into gear with a very stiff lever when parked faceing up hill. This sometimes affected the key, sometimes, yours sounds a bit worse.  Does using the hand brake before putting it in park help? By that i mean, pull up and stop and hold it on the foot brake then engage hand brake fully(always use the hand brake or the cables cease up, ive been told) let the car settle on the hand brake alone and only then select park. Might give you a clue as to cause, which could of course be something else entirely. Hth.

[feeutfo]

oh, and welcome to oof by they way, sorry, forgot my manners.

[Kevin Wood]

I wonder if this is the problem Kevin Wood had with the solenoid at the ignition barrel not releasing.  Really need Kevin to describe the symptoms in more detail..  but I remember him saying the area of the barrell got noticably warm.

Sounds like it could be.

The problem I had was with the interlock that prevents the key being withdrawn unless the automatic gearbox selector is in "P". There's a switch under the gearbox gaiter (not apparently part of the main selector switch) that energises a small solenoid at the bottom of the lock barrel. This drives a pin into the barrel to prevent it being turned back to the position where the key can be removed.

I did a quick fix on mine as it happened at an inconvenient time. Remove the shroud around the steering column by removing the 3 screws under the column and the two in the front face behind the steering wheel (turn the wheel to 90 degrees and you'll see one under a plastic cap, then 90 degrees the other way to remove the other). Remove the lower half of the shroud and you'll see a small square solenoid right on the bottom of the lock barrel. If it's been playing up you'll find it's slightly warm as it's permanently engaged. There's a 2 pin connector on the left hand side of the solenoid which can be removed to disable it.

I have never got round to fixing this properly as the interlock is a pain anyway, IMHO. I have never in 20+ years of driving manual cars wandered off without engaging the handbrake so I don't see why autos should be any different.

I suspect the problem is that the switch under the gaiter has jammed / failed and isn't breaking the circuit when the lever is moved into "P"..

Kevin

[JamesV6CDX]

Hiya - I see you are in Gloucester. That's where I work - hometown is Cheltenham.

Let me know if you want me to take a look for you - I have the same problem on my Omega

[prbw]

Many thanks for the helpful hints, guys.  That sticky solenoid/switch sounds a very likely culprit, Kevin - I'll take a look asap and advise.

[Ian_D]

I wonder if this is the problem Kevin Wood had with the solenoid at the ignition barrel not releasing.  Really need Kevin to describe the symptoms in more detail..  but I remember him saying the area of the barrell got noticably warm.

Sounds like it could be.

The problem I had was with the interlock that prevents the key being withdrawn unless the automatic gearbox selector is in "P". There's a switch under the gearbox gaiter (not apparently part of the main selector switch) that energises a small solenoid at the bottom of the lock barrel. This drives a pin into the barrel to prevent it being turned back to the position where the key can be removed.

I did a quick fix on mine as it happened at an inconvenient time. Remove the shroud around the steering column by removing the 3 screws under the column and the two in the front face behind the steering wheel (turn the wheel to 90 degrees and you'll see one under a plastic cap, then 90 degrees the other way to remove the other). Remove the lower half of the shroud and you'll see a small square solenoid right on the bottom of the lock barrel. If it's been playing up you'll find it's slightly warm as it's permanently engaged. There's a 2 pin connector on the left hand side of the solenoid which can be removed to disable it.

I have never got round to fixing this properly as the interlock is a pain anyway, IMHO. I have never in 20+ years of driving manual cars wandered off without engaging the handbrake so I don't see why autos should be any different.

I suspect the problem is that the switch under the gaiter has jammed / failed and isn't breaking the circuit when the lever is moved into "P"..

Kevin

Ahhhhhhhhhh.... so thats why me key gets warm then  

Learn something new everyday!

[prbw]

Good call, Kevin, it was indeed the solenoid not releasing.  I still don't know if it was the switch or the solenoid that was playing up - or why it happened when facing uphill - so more investigation required, but disabling the circuit has made the problem go away.  By the way, an even easier method of disabling the circuit than removing the steering column shroud is to disconnect the switch!  It is easily accessed by unclipping the selector shroud, and it is the microswitch operated by the lift up interlock on the selector lever.  Simply disconnect the brown earth wire where it is connected to an earth bus on the gearbox casing and insulate the connector.  All done in 30 secs!  Many thanks all for your contributions.