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[Tafty]

How do lads and lasses, posted this attached to another topic but think it's getting lost so have put in here.

I'm having a problem time with mine. Mine changes gear with the engine off and the clutch down to all gears, but the moment I start driving and get around 30mph plus it becomes a battle to get the car in gear!! Changing down is normal operation!!!?!?  :-?  So the question is - Am I looking at a clutch problem or could this be gearbox related?

As suggested to other people I have bled the clutch and changed the transmission oil to no improvement.  Getting quoted £280 for a clutch flywheel change out which doesn't seem too extravagent - but would this fix the issue??.

Any ideas chaps. Gearboxes and clutches are past my ability sadly  

[JasonH]

When moving try letting the revs drop to idle before you change gear. Means slow gear changes but it does work.

I think you have the same problem I had. The clutch driven plate has come loose, the drive bands have failed. That means it wobbles about and drags a little bit when spinning fast. Means you can't change gear when you're moving.

Basically you just need a new clutch. The driven plate is part of the clutch kit. Cost for genuine LUK clutch kit is approx £120. Fitting is relatively easy because rear wheel drive - but still a bigish job.

[JamesV6CDX]

It does sound rather like the clutch to me..... not tooooo bad a job to replace in a manual. I've done them on my own ;y

[Andy B]

It does sound rather like the clutch to me..... not tooooo bad a job to replace in a manual.  ....

A f***er of a job on an auto though!!    


OK I'll get my own coat on the way out!    

[Tafty]

Thanks everyone. Would do the 'how to' which makes it look sooo easy!!!  Will book it in for the clutch in the morning. Been having long conversations with SWMBO about spiralling car costs and maybe needing to trade her in for a new one - that is a car I mean ..........unfortunately Hopefully this'll calm her down a bit. As she wants a people carrier!!!

Cheers chaps, as always very helpful. [smiley=beer.gif]

[JamesV6CDX]

Thanks everyone. Would do the 'how to' which makes it look sooo easy!!!  Will book it in for the clutch in the morning. Been having long conversations with SWMBO about spiralling car costs and maybe needing to trade her in for a new one - that is a car I mean ..........unfortunately

Cheers chaps, as always very helpful. [smiley=beer.gif]

Don't you fancy having a crack at it yourself? It's really not a bad job.

How urgent is it to get fixed?

[Tafty]

Thanks everyone. Would do the 'how to' which makes it look sooo easy!!!  Will book it in for the clutch in the morning. Been having long conversations with SWMBO about spiralling car costs and maybe needing to trade her in for a new one - that is a car I mean ..........unfortunately

Cheers chaps, as always very helpful. [smiley=beer.gif]

Don't you fancy having a crack at it yourself? It's really not a bad job.

How urgent is it to get fixed?

I would try myself - thanks to this place have tackled nearly all jobs myself - if I had a garage and not a sloping drive. Plus need to be up in Aberdeen on Monday so would be a lot easier for everyone - that being the missus - if I put it in a clutch centre down the road. She doesn't want to be minding the kids for a couple of days on her own as they are on half term!!!

[Kevin Wood]

Any signs of leaking oil / coolant around the bell housing? Just wondering if the clutch has got contaminated?

Does it change OK if you "pump" the clutch pedal a couple of times?

If you sit in first gear with foot on clutch, handbrake off, does it start to creep forwards after a while? Just wondering if the hydraulic system is the cause?

Any judder as you pull away from a standstill?

Kevin

EDIT: Oh, and how many miles has the current clutch done?

[JamesV6CDX]

Might be worth backwards bleeding it before ripping it apart, too...

[Tafty]

Any signs of leaking oil / coolant around the bell housing? None - nice and clean - checked it thoroughly whilst doing the gearbox oil changeJust wondering if the clutch has got contaminated?

Does it change OK if you "pump" the clutch pedal a couple of times?No I have to ram the gearstick in if travelling at speed - nice and normal at low revs

If you sit in first gear with foot on clutch, handbrake off, does it start to creep forwards after a while? No, no movement at all Just wondering if the hydraulic system is the cause?

Any judder as you pull away from a standstill? No judder - that's what has been confusing me

Kevin

EDIT: Oh, and how many miles has the current clutch done? As far as I can see from all the receipts I got with the car it's the original clutch - now on 117000

Thanks for your input Kevin

Lee

[Tafty]

Might be worth backwards bleeding it before ripping it apart, too...

Did that this morning - no change to the way it operates. :-/

I will go with the clutch change and see how it goes.

[Kevin Wood]

Hmm. :-/

Sounds like the clutch is dragging for some reason, but none of the normal symptoms of wear, contamination or hydraulic problems.

Tell you what it could be - siezing spigot bearing. Clutch still needs to come apart, and may as well be changed at that mileage, but make sure they change the spigut bearing at the same time and check the input shaft nose for scoring.

Kevin

[Tafty]

Hmm. :-/

Sounds like the clutch is dragging for some reason, but none of the normal symptoms of wear, contamination or hydraulic problems.

Tell you what it could be - siezing spigot bearing. Clutch still needs to come apart, and may as well be changed at that mileage, but make sure they change the spigut bearing at the same time and check the input shaft nose for scoring.

Kevin

Thanks for the heads up Kevin.

Lee

[JamesV6CDX]

When the clutch is disassembled, have a look in the spigot - you may be able to turn it by hand. See how it feels. If it's rough or "graunchy" then replace it. Bit of a pig to get out, and needs a drift to drive it in, but it can be the cause of many evils