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[SoulRaver]

Hi,

(surfed the net too much on this issue tonight, so posting now..)

I have a 2,5td -98, automatic. Been happy with it thus far. However, now that first morning chills have come over (-/+0C) the car has started to acting up seriously.

It's very unstable at idel runing, getting shutoff randomly. Almost like it's short on air/fuel mix. As soon as I get it moving the there is no worries. But it does come back as soon as I hit a redlight and need to stop (ie. put it in neutral). A pain in city traffic!

Tonight it got really terrible, as soon as had to put it neutral the stuttering began and quite a few restarts.

An other possible symptom is that it runs really cool now. Temp needel isn't going much past first marker.

Given it pretty steady oil and oil filter changes about 10k km apart. Make some 40t km/year. The expected turbo whine has made it self aware. I just can't see it being the issue right now. Tho there is a fair amount of accumalate on the hozes running from the airbox all the way to the turbine.

My usual mechanic was mistified, hence me posting here. There was an idea floated that there might be a sensor that is faulty.

DIY remedies that are happening tomorrow are (need to have these done for the winter in any case):
-Air filter change
-Fuel filter change (Is there anything special I need to know in this?)
-Oil filter change
-Oil change
-Radiator flush
-Termostat change


Any and all help is much appreciated!



Edit:
There are no problems in starting it up - the issue is keeping it running.

[JamesV6CDX]

Are there any fault codes?

[SoulRaver]

I don't have the GM/BMW tools to check em out. You think I should go straigth to a brand mech?

[SoulRaver]

Found the "paper clip test" thread - will report back tomarra.

[Seth]

Sounds like the fuel temperature sensor is playing up here.

I'm sure that it's located within the injection pump, and not user-serviceable, and a replacement pump will set you back around £1200!

However, don't jump to conclusions - yet!

When changing the fuel filter, remove it as a single unit from the inner wing, complete with it's cast aluminium head. Unscrew the old filter and discard it.
Next, use a pointy-nosed pliers, and unscrew the slim threaded nut and remove the heater unit portion. Thoroughly clean and examine the O-ring and it's seating faces.
Refit the heater unit, and retighten the retaining nut really well with the pliers.
Fill the replacement filter with fuel, and screw it on firmly.
Refit complete unit to inner wing, reconnect pipes/connectors and see how she goes from there. It may run erratically for a short time, whilst the system vents itself.

It cured mine, although I subsequently had to change the pump for different reasons.

[Seth]

Forgot to say that it would do no harm to fill the fuel filter with Diesel Magic/Forte/etc.
Forget the Vauxhall 'stealers' too - total waste of time, and update your profile so we can see where you're at ... !  

[TheBoy]

given its running cool, need to change the stat

[SoulRaver]

First:
My mates shop was unavailable today (family crisis) so I'll get in there tomarra. So I spent better part of the morning doing eyeball diagnostics.



Paperclip test:
If my car was of the later type that would need the box: would the paperclip test not give any codes? "TheBoys" guide to this trick indicated that later models need the real thingie to get actual data.

All I got was 1-2. Thinking that it's all clear.



Symptom update:
The studdering is now so bad that even in the garage (+15C) it's acting up. No need to drive it outside. Since the the temp factor now is void: leaning strongly towards fuel and/or air distribution issues.



MkI EyeBall checkup:
Talked to former owner (close m8 of mine): he suggested that I check the fuel return lines. He had them changed at a shop. Looking them over I noticed that #5 (counting from front) injector-to-injector hop was still the original one. Prolly a lazy ass mech didnt arse himself to disasemble the in the way parts.  
Tho no noticable hardening or cracking was found. Same with main lines. Went out and got some replacement tube to be on the safe side. Putting em in as well on Sunday.

Current fuel filter is... odd. The supposed screw cap at the bottom is not there. Wasn't abel to get close up view. Suspecting some b-rate part there.

Coolant fluid is really murky. No clear rust thank god. It's getting changed tomarra. Gona use a standard coolant flush agent in the shop.

Generator belt is now marked up as "need to change". Side tearing visible. Right type of stiffness felt using the hand test.

Oil leakage at about 1-2 drops / 12h on ground. Automaticly thinking it's related to turbo leak. See more below. Giving the oil system cleaning agent treatment as well.





Side notes...
Turbo issue:
Ok, so I did mention that the turbine is whining. Duly noted and planned for next month service. Looked over the hoses running to-and-from. Most parts thikly coverd in "oily sticku gunk". Clearly high presure oil spray from each seal. It's on most adjacent aparts around. The previously mentioned oil leak issue I chalk up to this.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/telluscitizen/Omega


Got both the replacement tubine and that upper part (right under the "Disel Turbo" plastic cover) used parts from old running wreck.

Permited all the parts are 100%; is there any real difficulty in making the swap on this engine? No special tricks or tools needed? (Done a few on other brands). Are there good economical choices for 3rd party tubines or possible other upgrades? Keep in mind my O's a tool for work and I rack up loads of km's /year. Durability and economics are key.

[SoulRaver]

given its running cool, need to change the stat

"..the stat"? Err.. that is shorthad for?  

[dieseldean]

given its running cool, need to change the stat

"..the stat"? Err.. that is shorthad for?  

thermostat

[SoulRaver]

DOH!!


 

[SoulRaver]

Update:

Think somes' having a laugh on me now...

Ok so the fuel filter is changed, ditto on airfilter. Ran outta time to get into the oil & coolant flush.

Before I go on: I started her up in the garage (+15C) ran like a kitten for the first minute. Then started the stuttering. Gave her some gas to 1t rpm. Entire car heaved at times as it was trying to keep it self running at even those revs.

What do you guys think?


My suspicions went to lubrication. Ahh yes.... I discoverd that my previous in shop oil changes had been a scam. Fookers had just tapped her out and billed me!   I'll leave that outta this..

So the situ right now is that I have a 2,5td with 20t+ km oil in it.

I need to do a emergency oil flush. At the very least I'm gona do this:
First what tap it all out
-In with new oil. Add can of oil system  cleaning agent. Have it run it's paces (sticker says about 15mins running).
-Have that tapped out. Change the filter. Gona look at replacing the oil pump as well. Once all that is in.
-Give it new oil again; that will be changed at the end of the month again.

You knowing now what the situ is: other suggestions on what I should look at here now?

 :-/

[SoulRaver]

Take a look at this vid and you'll see how the engine is behaving, still. Things done:

Air filter swap
Fuel filter swap
In tank fuel pump swap
Oil filter swap
Oil swap
Thermostat swap
Coolant swap - Currently with detergent addative, comming out tomarra.

Planned - oil detergent treatment and yet new oil.


It's runnning a tad better now after all that work. But as you can see in the vid, it's no where good.

Things worth mentioning:
Got screwd over by last mech - so I been running on the same oil for the last 20t km. Usually change oil regulary @ 10t km. Hence the new oil that I just poured in pitch black allready. Car hasn't moved an inch. Giving it that detergent treatment tomarra and new oil to boot.

Was suggested that the return fuel feed might be leaky. They have been changed some few years back by previous owner. What you think as you look at the vid?

Next idea floted was a crappy timing chaine. I would expect the start up that case to really hard. That is not the case here. Agree/disagree?

The turbo is whining, and when I dis-assembled the hoseing, trying to get to the thermostat, I noticed that intercooler-intakemanifold pipes where fairly wet with oil inside; this normal? Most joints along the same pipes had a good build up of oily gunk.


The vid then:
http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/telluscitizen/Omega/?action=view&current=Omega_studder.flv

Idel running studder @ time indexes:
0:28
0:56
0:59
1:01
1:12

The happen without any gas applied. Prior to all that work it was so bad that even with a light footing it would behave the same.


Ideas, thoughs or suggestions?

[Omegatoy]

looks electrical to me?poss wrong signals coming from throttle sender?
or signal in pot in pump is erratic? have you tried diesel magic in the fuel filter yet?

[platty]

SR, sounds like you have done a serious amount of work on your TD!

Oil changes. If it has had the same oil for 20k ( ) that could take some cleaning out. I change mine every 3k (miles) MAX and it has slowly become less and less black at each change (over 2 yrs!) - you have to keep with the real frequent changes for a while yet.

Cool running. Mine runs cold in winter so I just leave the viscous off. I knwo you have changed the stat, but I think that is sometimes wrongly diagnosed and the viscius is just over cooling. Mine misfires on cold mornings on start up but clears within 10 secs.

Oil in intake pipes. Seems to be fairly common on the TD's, I clean mine out annually but it isn't an issue really.

The fact that it splutters intermittently when idking is a bit wierd - does sound reminiscent of pump problems, but im not up to speed on that really.... tis very strange though :-/