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[Auto Addict]

my money is still on crank sensor or the cam sensor!

Sounds like cam sensor to me.

[Taxi_Driver]

my money is still on crank sensor or the cam sensor!

Sounds like cam sensor to me.

Im not convinced.....a 2.2 will start (altho struggle) with faultly cam or crank sensor.....well mine will with em disconnected......altho one at a time.....never tried it with em both disconnected at the same time  :-/

And as laz last posted the codes.....no mention of cam or crank sensor....so dont think it will be those  :-/

[TheBoy]

My gut reaction with this one is tps or throttle - but I'd love to see live data first...

[feeutfo]

with the throttle body business, is there software related to it? And does the previously mentioned "rest" mean disconnect the battery for 20 mins or whatever? Not implying i think its throttle body with this post, just wondering if the dealer has done the necessary where appropriate to fully eliminate it?
 Also make sure you only pay for whatever repairs the issue. If they want to blindly throw parts at your car thats their choice. You want it repaired not a new ecu ,or whatever else, when there is nothing wrong with the old one. Hope it gets sorted, but dont trust a dealer...ever! Bunch o numps as a rule.

[Marks DTM Calib]

My approachs would be a comprehesive set of live readings and actuator tests.

I would look to actutate the the throttle body with Tceh2 (or similar) and observe its operation....I would also be looking at the feedback readings when moving it etc.

Do check the engine earth points on the inlet manifold

[Badger]

I do sympathise with the original poster of this thread, I am having exactly the same problems. car has been off road for 4 weeks now and I am at my wits end. Every time the car is plugged in to diagnostics I get a list of faults that weren't there before. Spent loads of money on new parts and still car is undriveable. Machine now showing 6 faults, no signal from cam sensor, egr valve low voltage, tps sensor low voltage, road speed sensor, and a couple of others i can't remember. Everything has been replaced, but all faults still there. Dealer is suggesting ecu has failed, however they also noted the alternator was kicking out 13.1 volts and they say it should be more suggesting the electrical/computer system needs more volts to operate correctly. Anybody know if this is corrrect or are they just trying to sell me an alternator?

[Laz]

I got a meeting with the mechanic and the garage boss in the morning. Currently the car is in the local garage that I have used problem free for years. It has been towed to the dealership and as previously stated they wrongly condemned the ECU, and subsequently towed back to the garage.
 So far the list of things to ask are -

Are the codes live or Stored?
Can the code reader perform live tests. If so please run them on the following -
 - See if pedal position and throttle position match over a range of positions-
 - A comprehensive set of live readings and actuator tests, actuating the throttle body and observe its operation.
 - See what the feedback Readings are when moving it etc.
 
Also -
Check the EMU is working and not flashing.
Check the Engine Earth Points on the inlet manifold.

I know when I wanted to have the Cruise Control activated I had to go to the main dealers as the local garage did not have the right equipment so I am not overly confident these guys have the kit to run the live tests, but we will see.

 I'll update as soon as I have further info. Thanks again (good luck to Badger incidently)

[Marks DTM Calib]

I do sympathise with the original poster of this thread, I am having exactly the same problems. car has been off road for 4 weeks now and I am at my wits end. Every time the car is plugged in to diagnostics I get a list of faults that weren't there before. Spent loads of money on new parts and still car is undriveable. Machine now showing 6 faults, no signal from cam sensor, egr valve low voltage, tps sensor low voltage, road speed sensor, and a couple of others i can't remember. Everything has been replaced, but all faults still there. Dealer is suggesting ecu has failed, however they also noted the alternator was kicking out 13.1 volts and they say it should be more suggesting the electrical/computer system needs more volts to operate correctly. Anybody know if this is corrrect or are they just trying to sell me an alternator?

Badger, where in Lincolnshire are you?

[Laz]

The mechanic has said that the errors are as live as can be, although the ignition will turn on,  the engine will not fire up so he is unable to do any live testing.

The EMU is working and not flashing he is going to double check this, and he is going to check the Engine Earth Points on the inlet manifold.

He is also confident that it is not the throttle body as this has had 3 different ones in. (The Original, The dealership tried one, and the one I got from Marky)

He is going to call me this evening with a further update.

[Marks DTM Calib]

The mechanic has said that the errors are as live as can be, although the ignition will turn on,  the engine will not fire up so he is unable to do any live testing.

The EMU is working and not flashing he is going to double check this, and he is going to check the Engine Earth Points on the inlet manifold.

He is also confident that it is not the throttle body as this has had 3 different ones in. (The Original, The dealership tried one, and the one I got from Marky)

He is going to call me this evening with a further update.

I am worried....the live values do not require the engine to be running (i.e. pedal position and throttle position....press teh butterfly with your finger!)

Also, actuator tests do not require the engine to be running.

In addition....error codes state an issue which can be sensor/actuator, cabling or ECU....so changing the thrttle body only proves that it might not be the throttle body  ....it does not rule out cabling etc!

[Laz]

I am worried....the live values do not require the engine to be running (i.e. pedal position and throttle position....press teh butterfly with your finger!)

Also, actuator tests do not require the engine to be running.

In addition....error codes state an issue which can be sensor/actuator, cabling or ECU....so changing the thrttle body only proves that it might not be the throttle body  ....it does not rule out cabling etc!

Yup, Had a feeling the experts were going to say something like that.  
OK, I need to start thinking about a plan B here. I have not given up on the garage yet, as I said he is generally a top bloke who is very reasonably priced, and  I am sure he would eventually fix the car by slowly replacing every part of it.  I could throw the towel in and get it to the local dealership, but in my experience they just see me as a cash point machine and have already mis-diagnosed the ECU, so no confidence there.
 Does anyone know anyone in the North-East that actually knows how to diagnose and fix Omega's?
 Failing that I could pay to get the car towed to practically anywhere I suppose.

[Badger]

Thanks for the good luck message Laz, I am fortunate that I'm in the motor trade and know some really good guys but my car has baffled everybody. Our local vauxhall dealer is a customer of ours and the service manager is very helpful, even sending me parts 'on approval' so it's not costing me a great deal of money but it's bloody inconvenient not having a car. He's going to have a go at sorting it himself so I'll let you know if he finds anything.
 Hi Mark I'm on the North Lincs/South Yorks border, slap bang in the middle of a triangle drawn between Doncaster SLady bitshorpe and Gainsborough.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Thanks for the good luck message Laz, I am fortunate that I'm in the motor trade and know some really good guys but my car has baffled everybody. Our local vauxhall dealer is a customer of ours and the service manager is very helpful, even sending me parts 'on approval' so it's not costing me a great deal of money but it's bloody inconvenient not having a car. He's going to have a go at sorting it himself so I'll let you know if he finds anything.
 Hi Mark I'm on the North Lincs/South Yorks border, slap bang in the middle of a triangle drawn between Doncaster SLady bitshorpe and Gainsborough.

Bugger, thats quite a trek for me....I was up that way just over a week ago to!

[Marks DTM Calib]

I do sympathise with the original poster of this thread, I am having exactly the same problems. car has been off road for 4 weeks now and I am at my wits end. Every time the car is plugged in to diagnostics I get a list of faults that weren't there before. Spent loads of money on new parts and still car is undriveable. Machine now showing 6 faults, no signal from cam sensor, egr valve low voltage, tps sensor low voltage, road speed sensor, and a couple of others i can't remember. Everything has been replaced, but all faults still there. Dealer is suggesting ecu has failed, however they also noted the alternator was kicking out 13.1 volts and they say it should be more suggesting the electrical/computer system needs more volts to operate correctly. Anybody know if this is corrrect or are they just trying to sell me an alternator?

13.1 volts is fine for the ecu...it will work down to about 8V!

Can you post (in a new thread) the fault codes?

[Badger]

Will do mate, just as soon as I can find the bit of paper!