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[Bent valve]

I wonder if anyone can help with this one? I was driving along nicely in my 97 3.0l Elite when suddenly the EML came on and the engine started rattling and the power dropped off dramatically.
After establishing that there was oil pressure I managed to coax it home and borrowed a code reader off a friend.
The only code thrown up was 94 cam sensor, I cleared the code, started the engine EML came back on again almost immediately.
I cleared the code again and swapped the cam sensor, same thing happened.
Further investigation with the code reading device (snap on) revealed number 2 lamda sensor readings varying wildly compared to number 1 although this doesn't mean much to me as I don't really know what I'm talking about  
Removal of plug leads on drivers side bank doesn't do much to the sound of the engine although it doesn't rattle as much.
Replacing plug leads on drivers side and removing just 2 plug leads on passenger side (can't get to rear one easily) and it will not run at all.
Removal of plugs from drivers side and firing the car up does not result in petrol fumes being ejected from cylinders which leads me to believe it is not fueling on this side? Although manifold does get hot on drivers side, perhaps it's running too weak on that side?
Could these be symptons of a blocked cat?
Anyone got any ideas please?  

[ians]

I think first thing I would do is to check your timing belt hasn't jumped a tooth.  That is the most urgent to establish.  When was it last replaced btw?

[Bent valve]

 Thanks for the reply, I have done less than 100 miles since I changed the belt and tensioner as part of a top end rebuild a few weeks ago.

 I'm  going to go and check it now.

[TheBoy]

Knowing the reliability of V6 cam sensors, my first thought was cam timing.  Either that, or damaged cable during the work  :-/

[Bent valve]

 I have Just stripped it down now, and I can hardly believe it, but it appears that cam no 1 is 2 teeth out and cams 2,3 and 4 are 4 teeth out!
 Now I havent got a cam locking tool to check it accurately (I borrowed one last time) but there is no doubt about it  it is miles out.
 the tensioner position looks ok , there is no damage to the belt, it is still taut.
 How can this be possible? it was still running. has anyone heard of this happening before?

[TheBoy]

I have Just stripped it down now, and I can hardly believe it, but it appears that cam no 1 is 2 teeth out and cams 2,3 and 4 are 4 teeth out!
 Now I havent got a cam locking tool to check it accurately (I borrowed one last time) but there is no doubt about it  it is miles out.
 the tensioner position looks ok , there is no damage to the belt, it is still taut.
 How can this be possible? it was still running. has anyone heard of this happening before?

That may be terminal  

[Bent valve]

That may be terminal  [/quote]

 That thought had occurred..

[MutantCav]

I have a pair of 3.0 heads here if you do need them...going cheap...maybe even a good excuse to take a shapping trip to the Trafford ctr  

[Bent valve]

I have a pair of 3.0 heads here if you do need them...going cheap...maybe even a good excuse to take a shapping trip to the Trafford ctr  

 Thanks for the offer, but after the money I've spent on this car recently the Trafford centre is out of the question, Its Lidl and Aldi for the next few weeks

[tmx]

my MV6 has had a cam sensor in its life but when the cam sensor goes the car usually goes into limp mode wont rev over 3 grand

[Bent valve]

my MV6 has had a cam sensor in its life but when the cam sensor goes the car usually goes into limp mode wont rev over 3 grand

That was how mine was behaving, But  unfortunately I now know that there is more to it than just a duff sensor
 I presume that cam timing being out will indicate a problem with the sensor?

[Bent valve]

 I am one very happy and relieved chappie tonight

 After removing the crank pulley I noticed a ball bearing from a bearing race sat on top of the sump. Examination of the belt revealed 3 small splits and several scuffs.

 The tin timing case has 2 grooves formed into it above cam sprockets 1 and 2.

 It appears that this bearing had got between the belt and the sprockets causing it to jump the teeth.

 The bearing must have come from the previous tensioner which had disintergrated and caused the original engine failure.  (this led to me buying the car from the previous owner in a partialy dismantled state and rebuilding it)

 I have absolutely no idea how it managed to appear from nowhere and get jammed in the belt.

Now the good news. I put the belt back on and timed it, replaced the crank pulley and the inlet trunking/air flow meter plus the bottom hose and filled it with water. just the bare minimum needed to get it running, no timing cover or aux belt, and with all the loose cables tied back out of the way of the exposed timing gear I turned the Key and it roared into life! it sounded a bit loud but i soon realised this was because the air injection pipes were off, but it runs spot on.

 I only ran it briefley  and i need to get a new belt tomorrow, but after jumping 4 teeth I feel extremely lucky indeed  

[Entwood]

Good news and nice work ...  

[Bent valve]

 New belt fitted and all is well, drama over