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[Ghost]

Hi to all,
 My 3.0 V6 1995 auto has two problems.  :-/                                                                                                                                               The 1st is it only idels at 450 - 500 rpm dont matter what i do.
2nd at 3500 rpm the engion stutters and i have no power under that it pulls like a beast. Ive changed the plugs so thats not it.
 Ive just had the car now for 3 weeks and im gladd i have an omega back. ( my first was a 2ltr 8v opel omega, got nicked and burnt out.)
I would be very happy for any tips you may have.

Thanks   Dave  

[MutantCav]

Its meant to idle at 500rpm mate

Have you checked for oil in the plug wells?

[Ghost]

All Plugs are clean and oil free even the old ones wich were dead.
so 500 rpm is normal sorry my first V6 I didnt know.

[tmx]

sounds like a sensor or vacuum issue tried a paperclip test?

idle is around 5 - 750 rpm depends if the aircon is on or not

[feeutfo]

as said try the paper clip test as a first off. But suspect missfire which involves checking plug leads and dispac. Former being easiest. Breakers on here can help with parts.  
Idle sounds about right with ac off. Should go up to 600 650 ish with ac iirc.

[jonathanh]

could be a problem with the multiram system - there's a howto on here to check it

[Ghost]

Well Ive done the paper clip test and have 2 codes.    1st is 19 = incorect rpm signal,   2nd is 144 = Immobiliser no signal :-/
I Know the rpm is a bit slow but still not bad. What does the second mean??? Code 144 :-?. I have loked at it again today and I cant find any thing wrong but it still looses power ( cuts out or stuters ) at 3500 rpm. I can drive the car with no probs also at high speeds  ie 100mph but its bloooooomin annoying when you try to drive sporty and it dies on you.

[JamesV6CDX]

Sounds like the classic 4000 rpm crank sensor rev limit, which is confirmed by the code 19

Change crank sensor NOW before it lets you down completely!

[feeutfo]

crank sensor as said for code 19. Make certain its genuine only, or youll be back to square one in a couple of months.
144.... Do sensor first. Disconnect battery to clear codes and see if it returns. If it does check the transponder is glued into the correct position in the key. If still no joy come back and tell us for more options. :-)

[JamesV6CDX]

crank sensor as said for code 19. Make certain its genuine only, or youll be back to square one in a couple of months.
144.... Do sensor first. Disconnect battery to clear codes and see if it returns. If it does check the transponder is glued into the correct position in the key. If still no joy come back and tell us for more options. :-)

Codes are stored in non volitile memory - you won't clear them by disconnecting battery. Otherwise - Agreed  

[feeutfo]

crank sensor as said for code 19. Make certain its genuine only, or youll be back to square one in a couple of months.
144.... Do sensor first. Disconnect battery to clear codes and see if it returns. If it does check the transponder is glued into the correct position in the key. If still no joy come back and tell us for more options. :-)

Codes are stored in non volitile memory - you won't clear them by disconnecting battery. Otherwise - Agreed  

Cleared some "minor" codes (left the dbw plug off the throttle) on mine this way, no problem at all. A different rule on non obd2? In my experience more important codes wont clear as you say...?

[Ghost]

Thanks for the advice guys,
I have now got a new sensor and will put it in this afternoon and let you know what happens.
with the code 144 it does not seem to be bothering anything at the moment but can also try and sort it out.
again thanks for advice good on you guys.

[Ghost]

Well Ive just finished changeing the crank sensor. ( pig of a job, still had the original in.)
Now I drive a BEAST. That was the problem now she purrs like a kitten and drives like a roket. and the idel is running at 650rpm.
Thanks again keep up the good work and I will keep in touch.
Cheers guys, Dave.