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[Cybertrucker]

Can't remember which one it was now!        

as you can see ..... there wasn't much left!  

Is that the pad from SMD's motor?  I'm just confused as to why you're posting pictures of his brake pads!   :-?

[Andy B]

Can't remember which one it was now!        

as you can see ..... there wasn't much left!  

Is that the pad from SMD's motor?  I'm just confused as to why you're posting pictures of his brake pads!   :-?

You asked for pictures of brake pads ....... the pad shown was what came out the back of my car last year (compared with one of the new pads about to go in.   It had just started metal to metal.

[Cybertrucker]

You asked for pictures of brake pads ....... the pad shown was what came out the back of my car last year (compared with one of the new pads about to go in.   It had just started metal to metal.

I'm hoping for a pic of SMD's pads so we can match the wear on the pads to the damage on the disc.  If I can get the matching pics I'll have a go at something for the Maintenance section.  Thanks for your pics though - it'll be useful to compare the pics with a brand new pad and with one which is the thickness of a fag paper!  

[SMD]

i'll have the pics next weekend  

[Cybertrucker]

I have read this post with interest as its my next job on both cars I have got one set of pads already although not sure of make and had hoped not to have to change discs. The front looked ok when I had a quick look but never looked at the back I have learnt how to do things to make the car run better, glow plugs etc but making it stop is a bit more important than getting it going!!! If I get that wrong Im not just stuck with out car   So going to get garage to do them. I have been quoted for pads & discs £190, thats just for 1 car.  Is that about right and as I have had some real bad luck with garages how do I know who to trust :-? maybe I should ask the question in general if  anyone can reccomend anyone local to me

Don't be put off servicing your brakes just because of the potential danger if you get it wrong.  Changing brake pads is generally one of the easiest jobs on a modern car. I admit I haven't changed any Omega pads yet, but I've done them on numerous other makes of car and it's pretty easy.

A suggestion - whip your wheels off and post photos of both sides of each disc to this thread.  If we think it's a simple 'pads out, pads in' job we'll tell you and you can do it for yourself, but if it looks like your discs need replacing as well, which could be a bit more than you want to tackle (though even that isn't too much of a job) you can make the decision whether to take it to a garage after all.  You might surprise yourself though - the jobs you did on your engine a week or two ago were probably more complex than changing pads.

Go on, give it a try!  What's the worst that can happen???  

[Andy B]

..... - it'll be useful to compare the pics with a brand new pad and with one which is the thickness of a fag paper!  

       

[andy ilsf]

[size=16]why not do as we all do and just put the tyre under the car as well as the jack??unless your gonna hammer the 5hite out of it your gonna be fine??[/size]

[Entwood]

why not do as we all do and just put the tyre under the car as well as the jack??unless your gonna hammer the 5hite out of it your gonna be fine??

This is NOT a recommended practice. The jack is a flimsy lightweight piece of equipment that is NOT braced for side loads.

It takes less than 30 seconds to place an axle stand correctly and be safe. I have seen the result of a car falling off a jack whilst being worked on. The Funeral was interupted by the childrens crying on several occasions.

I changed my discs and pads last Thursday, the axle stands took less time to use than it did to drink the coffee SWTSMBO made me half way through.

If you can't do a job properly .... why bother doing it ?

[ali]

wasnt sure if andy ilsf was replying to me but the first thing I was told on here was to take care when underneath a car. So I went and got my ramps, axle stands and another jack.   When I changed the oil I even bounced on the car as I wasnt taking any chance Have not had time to look at brakes yet but hope to have a go tomorrow, someone told me I wouldnt be strong enough to do them not sure what he meant :-/

[HerefordElite]

wasnt sure if andy ilsf was replying to me but the first thing I was told on here was to take care when underneath a car. So I went and got my ramps, axle stands and another jack.   When I changed the oil I even bounced on the car as I wasnt taking any chance Have not had time to look at brakes yet but hope to have a go tomorrow, someone told me I wouldnt be strong enough to do them not sure what he meant :-/

now i can be a sexist pig at times but even i wouldn't have said that

you don't need any strength to change the pads :-?

[Entwood]

wasnt sure if andy ilsf was replying to me but the first thing I was told on here was to take care when underneath a car. So I went and got my ramps, axle stands and another jack.   When I changed the oil I even bounced on the car as I wasnt taking any chance Have not had time to look at brakes yet but hope to have a go tomorrow, someone told me I wouldnt be strong enough to do them not sure what he meant :-/

The only hard part of doing the front discs are the 2 caliper to hub mounting bolts ( you don't remove these to replace the pads only) as they are torqued to 95 Nm + 45 degrees. The easiest way to undo them is with a decent torque wrench set to undo... the length gives nice leverage.

If you have a large pair of pipe-wrenches use them to SLOWLY squeeze the caliper back in, aviods having to bleed the system after ..

I don't rush jobs and, as said I use axle stands, even so it was only about 45 minutes a side.

[Cybertrucker]

wasnt sure if andy ilsf was replying to me but the first thing I was told on here was to take care when underneath a car. So I went and got my ramps, axle stands and another jack.   When I changed the oil I even bounced on the car as I wasnt taking any chance

A minor point to consider when using jacks and stands is that depending on where you put them the car, or part of it, can still move if the jack slips.  There are two possibilities:

1.  Jack under the suspension, stands under the body:  If the jack slips the wheels will come down as the springs extend. The car won't move, but the suspension will, which could cause injury.

2.  Jack under the body, stands under the suspension:  If the jack slips the car body will drop until the springs have compressed enough to take the weight.  It'll probably only move 2-3 inches, but if you're lying underneath it it could still cause you injury.

The best thing is to jack under the body and put stands under the body, or if you jack under the suspension then when you've put the stands in lower the jack again until the weight is all on the stands.  At least that way you know that the suspension isn't going to move any further.

[SMD]

just thought i'd update this thread. changed the discs and pads the other day but didnt torque the nuts (didnt know you needed to) just did them tight. is this a big problem?

anyway the pads weren't paper thin as i thought they might be, they were fitted quite recently infact. one of the senors was cut off, hence the message on the trip computer.

i think the pictures below describe the problem better than i can:

inside of disc:


inside brake pad:

[Entwood]

They look pretty much identical to mine when I changed them a few weeks back ..

I wonder what causes the inside face, outmost edge of the disc to corrode far more than the outside face ?? It seems to be a common-ish problem... ?

[Andy B]

........

I wonder what causes the inside face, outmost edge of the disc to corrode far more than the outside face ?? It seems to be a common-ish problem... ?

There does seem to be a lot of disc that hasn't made contact with the pad. Mine just have a very thin/slim ridge around the outside where the pads haven't worn the disc. It's this ridge that normally cuts through the wear sensor way before the pads have worn out.