Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[bob24]

ED Select 8 valve X20SE 1995 with bosch injection.
Problem:
Anytime it is not fully warm it will stall, run fast when idling then just slow down and when going alone cut out and then restart. Sometimes it will not restart after a stall. It starts from stone cold everytime and when fully hot everytime.
I have twice cleaned the Idle bypass valve with no improvement. What I can see is that with the valve off of the car at rest I can blow air through it easily. If I rotate the valve shut with a stick it seals and passes no air. Does this mean it is faulty or is some air allowed through at rest normally?
I can get a used one for £32 or new for £116 but am reluctant to risk the cash if it's not the problem.
Any help gratefully received. Bob

[Richard A]

Sounds very much like Crank sensor !!!
Someone may come along with better info.

regards
richarda

[ians]

I am not sure if the breather/ICV/throttle body setup on the 8V is similar to the 16V but if it is, you need to do a bit more than clean the ICV.
There is an excellent Maintenance guide in that section of the forum.

Look it up and see if it makes sense for your engine.

The key is cleaning the small breather hose AND the port it connects to below the throttle body.

As said, all the above with the proviso it may not apply to your 8V  :-/

[bob24]

Thanks Richard and Ian.
The ICV bolts straight on to the inlet casting with no pipes involved. I looked at the maint guide for the 16v and thats quite a different arrangement. I'll price up a crank sensor and go from there. I get the engine warning light on occasionally so may try the paper clip trick. If you think of anything else I'd be glad to hear.
I'll get back with what I find out but that'll be after the weekend.
Cheers Bob. http://images.omegaowners.com/forum/yabbfiles231/Smilies/undecided.gif

[bob24]

Just tried the paper clip test:
144 = No immobiliser signal  received - Faulty unit or fault in wiring.
44  = Oxygen sensor - Air/fuel mixture too weak.
15  = Coolant Temperature sensor (CTS) - Low voltage.
31  = Engine RPM sensor - I had engine stopped.

As you can see no crank sensor fault indicated = 19.
The temperature guage on the dash seems to be indicating correct temperature. I've just read in the haynes that there's 2 sensors one for the guage and one for the engine management. I'll go after the temperature sensor.
Any advice welcome.
Cheers
Bob

[bob24]

Changed the Coolant temp sensor CTS and the motors now going fine apparently. Still getting the engine light up for short periods. Un-hooked the battery to reset the ECU fault codes and checked it again. Still getting;
144, 44, 15, 31 but with an added 38 = Oxygen sensor - Voltage low.
I'm pretty sure the Lambda is knacked so will change that next. Found "cats2go" are selling them for £27 + p&p so not too bad. Only hope the old one isn't welded into the cat and tears the thread out when I unscrew it.
Not sure why the 15 is still showing, now it's got a new cts ?? I'll check the wiring is sound.
More later.....
Bob.