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[Platinum1]

Had my car in for the rough idling (especially from cold) down to 400 rmp and hunting, when warm goes from 400 - 1200 rmp. Had it in at VX and they ran a tech 2 and they have reported a BROKEN O2 SENSOR (how does one break?), which I think is another name for Lambda sensor. I want to see if I can do the job myself (anyone attempted this them selves)? is it difficult. VX want 255 quid and say they book 1.2 hrs for the job.

They say the part is 129 quid, has anyone got one for sale? part number I need is 90509274. would anyone fit a non gm part if I did have to buy new?

I don't even know where on the car it is, it must be on the exhaust somewhere, anyone got any pics of where it is because if I can find it, it may be fixable, knowing vx they just want to replace to get the dosh and would not ever consider repairing it.

[Kevin Wood]

The Lambda sensor wouldn't be my first guess if the problem exists right from cold. The reason for this is that Lambda sensors are ignored until the engine has warmed up.

They are a device that screws into the exhaust pipe. Straightforward to change except that they have a habit of siezing in the threads due to the hot environment (use plenty of plus gas and leave it to soak in before attempting to unscrew). In addition, "universal" sensors are often much cheaper but typically come without an electrical connector so you have to use the connector off the old sensor and solder the wires together.

Having said that, I think a bit more diagnosis is required before changing anything.

Do a paperclip test and see if there are any codes stored.

Also, have a look in the spark plug wells to check these haven't filled with oil.

If the idle is surging up to 1200 RPM I would check for induction air leaks too.

Kevin

[Platinum1]

Thanks Kevin,

Questions on your post below
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The Lambda sensor wouldn't be my first guess if the problem exists right from cold. The reason for this is that Lambda sensors are ignored until the engine has warmed up. I know what you are saying

They are a device that screws into the exhaust pipe. Straightforward to change except that they have a habit of siezing in the threads due to the hot environment (use plenty of plus gas and leave it to soak in before attempting to unscrew). In addition, "universal" sensors are often much cheaper but typically come without an electrical connector so you have to use the connector off the old sensor and solder the wires together. so probably best to get oem sensor then (i have seen oem ones on fleabay for about 69 so half what vx want to charge)

Having said that, I think a bit more diagnosis is required before changing anything. I dont think I can do any more diagnostics (getting quite crazy on costs now, my other half said no more money to be spent or she will torch it!!! is becoming a money pit now, so much so that I will never have another Miggy from my recent bills). It has had 4 tests already and the report from vx on the tech 2 has the rectifying report that it is a broken 02 sensor)

Do a paperclip test and see if there are any codes stored. I have never done one before as I thought a tech 2 was the best test you could get, if I did do one, would it only confirm what the tech 2 said?

Also, have a look in the spark plug wells to check these haven't filled with oil. Will do that though

If the idle is surging up to 1200 RPM I would check for induction air leaks too. now where does one look for such leak?

Cheers for your help chap 

[Kevin Wood]

I dont think I can do any more diagnostics...

What I had in mind is free diagnostics. Check the obvious things before shelling out on parts.

I see yours is a 2.6 so you need to do a pedal test rather than a paperclip test. Have a look here:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687

A totally free way to get the stored codes out. Post them up here and we'll see if we can come up with any other ideas. Tech 2 does allow more advanced diagnostics, but it's only as good as the guy interpreting what he sees, and this is the problem with most garages.

Favourites for induction leaks are the pipe from the plenum (passenger side) to the brake servo, and the rubber seals under the plenum which seal against the intake manifold.

But, try the pedal trick and count the flashes to see what codes you have stored and we'll see if that sheds any light on it.

Kevin

[Platinum1]

Thanks Kevin,

What a numpty I am!!! mine is a 2.5 v6 elite not 2.6, even though it says 2.6 in my profile (probably had a few too many red wines when signed up and set the profile)    I presume that the same test still applies on mine though?

Will change the 2.6 to a 2.5 

[Del Boy]

Thanks Kevin,

What a numpty I am!!! mine is a 2.5 v6 elite not 2.6, even though it says 2.6 in my profile (probably had a few too many red wines when signed up and set the profile)    I presume that the same test still applies on mine though?

Will change the 2.6 to a 2.5 

Paperclip test on 2.5 as it's not DBW.