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[spikerz]

My car just recently started overheating. After a very short run the temp guage quickly rises til it boils up.(water flows over if i loosen the tank cap)
The large pipe beside the battery is roasting hot,the radiator is hot at the top only.the large pipe at the other side(going to/coming from? the water pump) is cool.The heater is blowing cold air.Any help please?

[Ziad]

That's a blocked rad. Do a proper flush and refill with mixture of 50% coolant and 50% water. There's a how to in the maintenance guides 

[TheBoy]

Double check the waterpump still has an impellor on the end - common for these BMW heaps lumps to splatter the pump impellor around the block

[spikerz]

I had already flushed it and done it again and no difference.I also ran hot water through the radiator from the smaller top pipe connection with the drain plug open and the whole radiator got hot, no cold spots?
Any guides/advice on removing/checking the water pump?never done it before but will give it a go.

[TheBoy]

viscous off
aux belt off
waterpump pulley off
4 bolts hold pump in

[Seth]

Double check the waterpump still has an impellor on the end - common for these BMW heaps lumps to splatter the pump impellor around the block

I'm wondering if I've got obstuction(s) within the block/head myself .........

Mine has a new 'stat/rad/water pump, and Vx antifreeze at 50% strength.
The temp will still touch the 100 mark, especially when towing the caravan up longish inclines, but quickly returns to it's normal 92 degrees once over the climb. There's no difference with both rad-mounted fans running, and I'm also not losing any coolant. The viscous is fitted, though I've yet to hear it 'kick in'

Apart from a good heavy flush with Forte, I don't see that anything else can be done.

Any ideas anyone ....... ?

[TheBoy]

Double check the waterpump still has an impellor on the end - common for these BMW heaps lumps to splatter the pump impellor around the block

I'm wondering if I've got obstuction(s) within the block/head myself .........

Mine has a new 'stat/rad/water pump, and Vx antifreeze at 50% strength.
The temp will still touch the 100 mark, especially when towing the caravan up longish inclines, but quickly returns to it's normal 92 degrees once over the climb. There's no difference with both rad-mounted fans running, and I'm also not losing any coolant. The viscous is fitted, though I've yet to hear it 'kick in'

Apart from a good heavy flush with Forte, I don't see that anything else can be done.

Any ideas anyone ....... ?

Oil flush may be worthwhile.

[Seth]

Double check the waterpump still has an impellor on the end - common for these BMW heaps lumps to splatter the pump impellor around the block

I'm wondering if I've got obstuction(s) within the block/head myself .........

Mine has a new 'stat/rad/water pump, and Vx antifreeze at 50% strength.
The temp will still touch the 100 mark, especially when towing the caravan up longish inclines, but quickly returns to it's normal 92 degrees once over the climb. There's no difference with both rad-mounted fans running, and I'm also not losing any coolant. The viscous is fitted, though I've yet to hear it 'kick in'

Apart from a good heavy flush with Forte, I don't see that anything else can be done.

Any ideas anyone ....... ?

Oil flush may be worthwhile.

Already done J, and the tractor gets an oil/filter change every 2500 miles religiously too ........

[TheBoy]

Double check the waterpump still has an impellor on the end - common for these BMW heaps lumps to splatter the pump impellor around the block

I'm wondering if I've got obstuction(s) within the block/head myself .........

Mine has a new 'stat/rad/water pump, and Vx antifreeze at 50% strength.
The temp will still touch the 100 mark, especially when towing the caravan up longish inclines, but quickly returns to it's normal 92 degrees once over the climb. There's no difference with both rad-mounted fans running, and I'm also not losing any coolant. The viscous is fitted, though I've yet to hear it 'kick in'

Apart from a good heavy flush with Forte, I don't see that anything else can be done.

Any ideas anyone ....... ?

Oil flush may be worthwhile.

Already done J, and the tractor gets an oil/filter change every 2500 miles religiously too ........

cooling flush is about all the remains then

[Seth]

Double check the waterpump still has an impellor on the end - common for these BMW heaps lumps to splatter the pump impellor around the block

I'm wondering if I've got obstuction(s) within the block/head myself .........

Mine has a new 'stat/rad/water pump, and Vx antifreeze at 50% strength.
The temp will still touch the 100 mark, especially when towing the caravan up longish inclines, but quickly returns to it's normal 92 degrees once over the climb. There's no difference with both rad-mounted fans running, and I'm also not losing any coolant. The viscous is fitted, though I've yet to hear it 'kick in'

Apart from a good heavy flush with Forte, I don't see that anything else can be done.

Any ideas anyone ....... ?

Oil flush may be worthwhile.

Already done J, and the tractor gets an oil/filter change every 2500 miles religiously too ........

cooling flush is about all the remains then

My thoughts exactly J.

The tractor's due another oil/filter-change soon, so I'm looking at a 'Forte flush' and antifreeze-change at the same time. I change the antifreeze on a two-yearly cycle anyway, using the genuine Vx stuff.
Same for the oil too, I only use the genuine 10/40 semi-synthetic - you know me J!

Other than this issue, the tractor's in fine fettle - touch wood!

[Ian_D]

Sounds like the water pump to me... And I know all too well how quickly they warm up when it’s got no impeller attached  (and I also know how much the AA charge if you breakdown on the motorway 120 miles away from home, and dont have any membership!  )

From cold, does the temp start to rise off the peg after a minuet or two of idling? If so, DON'T drive it at all, and avoid running it until it’s fixed.

[spikerz]

yep, starts to rise after a minute or 2 and if driven would go over 100 within another minute.i,ve taken it for a test after flushing radiator and had to turn back a.s.a.p. as the needle is rising as quick as a second hand on a clock.

[Seth]

yep, starts to rise after a minute or 2 and if driven would go over 100 within another minute.i,ve taken it for a test after flushing radiator and had to turn back a.s.a.p. as the needle is rising as quick as a second hand on a clock.

Yep - sounds like the water pump's naffed here.
From memory, I got a QH jobbie from local factors for 45 quid-ish.
Straightforward job, but make a note of the belt route BEFORE dismantling!

[spikerz]

Got the water pump out and yes,the plastic fins part has broken off and i picked out a few broken bits too.Definitely some bits missing but don't suppose there's much i can do about that.Read somewhere there's a drain plug on the block somewhere on this engine,anyone know where that is anyway?

[smokingomega]

Regarding the Overheating on hills whilst towing.
My 2.5 td is the exact same, it`s normal for these to climb right up as long as they dont enter the red there fine. I`m a HGV mechanic an even large trucks carrying 40 tonns do the same. I blow out my radiator every now an then which can help as they do get a bit clogged up with dust and dirt .
I once fitted a cheap thermostat and that was a big mistake as it was more restrictive than the origenal thermostat and the temp went into red so I had to fork out £35 for a genuine part.
There are after market fans you can buy from Kenlowe but they are expensive.