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[stevebubs]

Just done this, and whatever you do, just ignore the Haynes manual - it's just plain wrong.

Jack up the back of the car on both sides

Remove wheel, undo the shock (18mm) and Antiroll linkage (13mm both ends). Support Diff and undo the rear carrier bolts (15mm). Lowering the diff then allows that extra droop to allow the new spring to fit.

Beware of the
exhaust - will have to remove from hangers and allow to hang down a bit if doing the N/S/R
ABS sensor wires - don't get them trapped above the carrier brackets when reinstalling the diff.
Brake Flexi/hard pipe union on the trailing arm - too much droop with strain this.

HTH

Stephen

PS Also watch out that you don't move the nuts around that the carrier bolts go into - they're not fixed to anything so can get knocked if you're clumsy with the holes.

PPS While you're there, you may as well change the fuel filter in the O/S/R wheel arch

[Auto Addict]

Thanks for the advice, would you care to write up a detailed 'How to' under a separate post?

i.e. Tools required, and step by step instuctions.

We could then put it into the maintenance guides for future reference.

[TheBoy]

Thanks for the advice, would you care to write up a detailed 'How to' under a separate post?

i.e. Tools required, and step by step instuctions.

We could then put it into the maintenance guides for future reference.

I think Marks_DTM and I were intending to do how2 when we do mine...

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yep, thats the plan.....when I can source the correct springs for an MV6 which is proving difficult!

[TheBoy]

when I can source the correct springs for an MV6 which is proving difficult!

My mates call me Betamax Man, coz this situation is the norm with me  

[stevebubs]

Thanks for the advice, would you care to write up a detailed 'How to' under a separate post?

i.e. Tools required, and step by step instuctions.

We could then put it into the maintenance guides for future reference.

Can do - took a few pics on my phone as I was doing it. Seriously busy at work at the moment so will probably be the weekend. Wrote the post just after I'd finished the job so I didn't forget....

[stevebubs]

BTW, OT but any tips on front wishbones? MOT advisory "bushes well worn".

[dekhelia]

Agree with original poster - up to a point. I've also just done this job, and it's very straightforward. I found that it was much easier by far - given the dirt-free life they lead - to remove the upper shock mounting bolts rather than the lowers. There is actually no problem with knocking the diff carrier nuts out of place - they're actually machined into two plates (one plate each side, two nuts/holes on each), and they can easily be brought back into line if you disturb them. You won't need spring compressors, either: the whole job can be controlled on the jack under the diff and under each suspension arm.

[Jimbob]

Agree with original poster - up to a point. I've also just done this job, and it's very straightforward. I found that it was much easier by far - given the dirt-free life they lead - to remove the upper shock mounting bolts rather than the lowers. There is actually no problem with knocking the diff carrier nuts out of place - they're actually machined into two plates (one plate each side, two nuts/holes on each), and they can easily be brought back into line if you disturb them. You won't need spring compressors, either: the whole job can be controlled on the jack under the diff and under each suspension arm.

cough cough, bit dusty here!

yes your right, and on an estate you HAVE to do it by removing the top bolts 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Agree with original poster - up to a point. I've also just done this job, and it's very straightforward. I found that it was much easier by far - given the dirt-free life they lead - to remove the upper shock mounting bolts rather than the lowers. There is actually no problem with knocking the diff carrier nuts out of place - they're actually machined into two plates (one plate each side, two nuts/holes on each), and they can easily be brought back into line if you disturb them. You won't need spring compressors, either: the whole job can be controlled on the jack under the diff and under each suspension arm.

cough cough, bit dusty here!

yes your right, and on an estate you HAVE to do it by removing the top bolts 

No you dont, you just have to know what to do to get the bottom of the shocks to release (as we did when doing your rear wheel bearing  )

[Ghost]

Hi guys,
sounds like a good idea.
I dont want to sound like a clever bugger or trod on any toes but I found this link
www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1170939305
and thought it might be a god idea if you put additional info there instead of another link.
could get a bit confusing if you get my Drift.

[Jimbob]

Agree with original poster - up to a point. I've also just done this job, and it's very straightforward. I found that it was much easier by far - given the dirt-free life they lead - to remove the upper shock mounting bolts rather than the lowers. There is actually no problem with knocking the diff carrier nuts out of place - they're actually machined into two plates (one plate each side, two nuts/holes on each), and they can easily be brought back into line if you disturb them. You won't need spring compressors, either: the whole job can be controlled on the jack under the diff and under each suspension arm.

cough cough, bit dusty here!

yes your right, and on an estate you HAVE to do it by removing the top bolts 

No you dont, you just have to know what to do to get the bottom of the shocks to release (as we did when doing your rear wheel bearing  )

I'd forgotton about that, yes we must have 

I know when I was doing springs on my own I couldnt release them at the bottom, was gonna break something, dropped the top no problem.

I've been to sleep far too many times since then though