Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[big_tone58]

hi, i have a 2.5 td (bmw engine) and have problems trying to accelerate, it is eraticic really bouncing the car, i have changed the fuel filter but have not yet tried the diesel magic trick,
can anybody tell me what symptons the air flow meter being faulty would give me as i disconnected it and the fault didnt change, also a previous owner has opened up the air flow meter before as it has marks on the top,

[Spearmint]

Easiest way to diagnose the AFM is to find a willing fellow Omega owner to lend you theirs.

If your near Corby I can lend a hand.

[Kevin Wood]

I may be wrong but I thought the air flow meter on this engine only mattered on boost. :-/ Certainly if you can disconnect it and the fault remains, it points to it NOT being the problem, as the ECU would substitute safe values for the reading, so you would expect some change.

I would start with the diesel magic and see what that does.

Kevin

[Kevin Wood]

Oh, and welcome to the forum. 

Kevin

[big_tone58]

Hi,thanks for the offer i am in w'boro car is in n'ton at the moment gonna try the diesel magic see if that works if not will take up your offer of help,once again thanks for the offer.

[Kevin Wood]

You're not far from TheBoy. I'm sure he would be prepared to cast an eye over it for you.

Kevin

[big_tone58]

Hi, thanks for the advice got to go and do a bit of work now (bugger) catch up with you this evening and let you know how i'm getting on 

[big_tone58]

Hi have tried the diesel magic did'nt seem to make a difference to start with but does now run a lot better,engine does still misfire now and again have been told this could be down to fuel pump in the tank. Any thoughts on this would be quite welcome thanks.

[TheBoy]

If you unplug the MAF on a MAF equipped 2.5TD, you will be hard pressed to notice any difference.


The lift pump fault is generally only noticible when starting, and when fuel is low.

[big_tone58]

Hi thanks to TheBoy for the advice looks like i am going back to the drawing board then,car is runnig still the fault as now become intermittent runs fine for miles then starts missing can be for short periods sometime longer,would this be a fault that could be diagnosed on a fault finder (do i have a plug for this ) it is a 98 estate???

[Ghost]

Have you done the paperclip test to see what codes your getting?
www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687

[spikerz]

This may not be related to your problem but..i recently found that the in tank lift pump in mine was dead, and full of crap,as was the swirl pot and even inside the filter on the bottom of the pump had a lump of black sludge.Got a good working replacement from a car with only 50k miles.Before i fitted it i checked inside the filter on the bottom of the pump and it also had a lump of black sludgy stuff in it.After seeing mine,and the replacement i think it would be a good idea for others to check theirs.No amount of 'diesel magic' etc. in the tank would clean this.

[Seth]

This may not be related to your problem but..i recently found that the in tank lift pump in mine was dead, and full of crap,as was the swirl pot and even inside the filter on the bottom of the pump had a lump of black sludge.Got a good working replacement from a car with only 50k miles.Before i fitted it i checked inside the filter on the bottom of the pump and it also had a lump of black sludgy stuff in it.After seeing mine,and the replacement i think it would be a good idea for others to check theirs.No amount of 'diesel magic' etc. in the tank would clean this.

Absolutely!!
As an aside, I'm reliably informed that the black crud is actually a bacterial build-up within the fuel itself.

[Seth]

The following procedure cured mine:

Remove the complete fuel filter unit from the car.
Unscrew the filter, empty the fuel, and discard.
Use a pointy-nosed pliers, unscrew the star-shaped centre nut, and remove the fuel heater.
Clean both mating surfaces, and ensure that the O-ring, (that 'sandwiches' between the cast filter-head casing and fuel heater), is intact and seated correctly.
Carefully refit the heater to the cast head, and firmly re-tighten the star-shaped nut.
Fill a new fuel filter with Comma Diesel Magic, and firmly screw it to the unit - don't go mad!
Refit the unit to the car, and restart the engine - it may run a little lumpy for a few seconds whilst the system self-vents.

After a test run, use the car for a few days, and see what happens!