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[spikerz]

Ummm interesting. The reason I ask is when the engine is running it ticks over quite nicely but as soon as you put on some revs it makes a ticking noise quite loudly which increases the more power you give it. Now at first I thought it was the manifold leaking, however this has been removed, new gasket and refitted but it is still there so now its got me wondering what else it could be. Its had new leads and new plugs so can pretty much rule them out but may be worth trying another coil pack if I can get hold of one on the cheap. Once tried I will buy a new one but have already spent a fortune on parts I dont need 

Dont know if yours has a similar stainless steel egr pipe,but when mine started making a noise like a blowing manifold,it turned out to be the end of the EGR pipe had broken off where it sits against the manifold.Was impossible to see because the end's inside the bracket that holds it on but when checking it(once cooled!) i found i could pull it out a bit away from the manifold because the very end where it widens out had cracked and broke off.

[Ghost]

The laud ticking could be a number of things,
on your manifold you have two gaskets if I'm right. one for the exhaust down pipe and one for the manifold.
it could be the tappets ( wrong name I know but i'm an old git lol) that they are sticking a bit. you could try an oil change and see if its any better.
I would say its one of the four gaskets or you have a crack in one of your manifolds / downpipes.

[TheBoy]

Just to clarify a few things:

19 - knackered crank sensor (99% of time)
31 - if engine starts, ignore. If engine won't start, non clonclusive.

On non-DBW cars, HT (DIS/Leads/plugs) do not bring up any meaningful fault code.  On DBW cars, there are a few codes and tests that can help pinpoint ht issues.

[star_whites]

Ok without sounding too thick here what DBW?

The crank sensor has just been changed for a gen vx one on sunday morning so thats ok. I replaced the idle control valve and egr valve with ones off a known good runner. However the stalling has returned once again.

I drove home with no issues but as soon as I restarted after being sat an hour she started and immediatly stalled. Started again and sounded as if was only firing on 3/4 cylinders and stalled, started again and reved and sounded ok but had to keep the revs at 900 to prevent stall. Drove 1/2 mile home with it stalling every time I removed the foot from the accelerator.

Im now wondering if it is the coil pack and that it only does it when hot as it runs fine when cold. Any ideas on this theory?  :-?

[star_whites]

Oh yeah I do no that the backbox is knackered as this is on order from eternalcar. One of the tailpipes fell off so she sounds like a tank and you can move the baffles around with your fingers but I cant see how this will affect the engine running as the gases are definatly escaping!

[TheBoy]

WHat does it idle at with a/c off (when it does idle without stalling), and is the idle steady?

[star_whites]

It idles great nearly all the time (aircon on/off).

It appears that she only stalls after shes been sat for a while when hot. Thats whats confusing me. Im begining to wonder if its the coil pack breaking down when hot but I have no idea. Its really annoying and I have some serious miles to do soon so Id like to sort it sooner rather than later.