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[RichardH]

Well I have just received word from the ECU repair centre who say that after extensive diagnostics and stress testing, the ECU is fine and was never broken.

So it is in the mail back to me so that I can try it again.  In the meantime, seeing as none of the code readers were able to connect, I thought that maybe the diagnostics port itself was faulty.  I have just had a look at it there now and it seems fine, and all of the wires have solid connections to the pins on the back. I can't see any break's in the wiring loom either.

Anybody got an idea of what to check next?  All help appreciated!

[RichardH]

Apologies for bringing this up again, but I really don't know what my next step should be.

I have just received the ECU back from the repair centre.  They have tested it and confirmed that it is working fine.  I replaced it in the car and went for a drive.  The same issue appears after 4/5 miles.  I still cannot connect to the ECU with my code reader to read the codes.

I have recorded a video of the problem which I hope might give you guys an idea of what the problem is.  Volume is not great so you may have to turn your speakers up.  At about 15 seconds I push the accelerator flat to the floor and you can see what happens.

http://s156.photobucket.com/albums/t30/celtxx/?action=view&current=Omega.flv

Does anyone know what might be happening electrically at around 4/5 miles as it consistently fails at this point every time when the car is driven from cold?

As always, any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Richard

[RichardH]

Could a faulty crank sensor cause these symptoms?

[RichardH]

Bumping it up a little bit seeing as it's gone all quiet in this thread!

I have been ringing around some mechanics today and a few have said that just because the ECU tested ok at the repair centre, it still does not mean there is not an issue with it.

I rang the local dealer who I went to initially to try and get the codes read.  He has told me that they could actually connect partially to the ECU, but were not able to read codes or do anything else.  In my mind this rules out the wiring of the diagnostic port as being the issue. He has suggested a cheaper option of getting a second hand ECU and trying that out becuase I am not prepared to spend the big bucks on a brand new one just in case it was not the problem.

So does anyone know of a 2.2dti in a breakers?  I need the ECU, immobiliser ring from ignition barrel, and transponder chip from key.  I have already tried a few online breakers but they can only provide me with the ECU and not the other bits.

[Iain]

Forgive me here Richard,this is a long shot and as i know nothing about the 2.2 DTi i could be well off....

To me that looks like a pump problem,but im no expert...

I use to drive a Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8TD,now a common fault on these were pump seals...the car would drive for a few minutes then chuck it,
I know its not exactly what you are getting but it is vaguely similar
??
A long shot i know mate

[RichardH]

Thank's Ian, even long shots are appreciated at this stage! :-)

[Andy B]

.....
So does anyone know of a 2.2dti in a breakers?  I need the ECU, immobiliser ring from ignition barrel, and transponder chip from key.  I have already tried a few online breakers but they can only provide me with the ECU and not the other bits.

http://www.thomsonlocal.com/Campbell's-Dismantlers/0304686801101345000/map/companyinfo.html
Pretty sure it was a diesel I saw in their yard on Mon, as it was a facelift I assume it was a 2.2dti - still pretty much intact.

[RichardH]

Cheers Andy, I will give them a buzz.

[egore]

my 2001dti does exactly the same thing my code reader does not give any codes so i am tempted to go to the dealers however i use the car for caravan towing mostly and can wait please post the conclusion if there is one i would be most grateful 

[RichardH]

I am afraid I have not managed to solve this problem.  The car has been parked up for the last few months as no mechanic seems to be able to sort it out for me.  I am trying to source a second hand ECU as I can't afford to gamble over €1000 on a new one on the off chance it is the ECU.

[Elite Pete]

Well I have collected the car and taken it home before I decide one way or another what to do.

I have checked all the battery connections and they all seem to be fine, including the 0V.  I did a check on the voltages with a voltmeter and they all seem to be in range.

Car off:   12.8v
Car on (idle):    13.8V
Car on with load (idle):  13.7V

When I collected the car, I got chatting to a salesman who said that I could send the ECU off to a repair centre where they would check and see if it was working correctly.  So barring anything else I can check myself I may have to do this.

Have you checked the voltages when the car is playing up.

[Matchless]

Have another look at the diag socket, I had problems after trying a cheapo tech 2, it had much thicker pins than the oem and bent the diag socket contacts back too far.
You can release each contact blade in turn by using a small drill bit (0.8mm?) pushed into a notch next to the contact (I cant remember if this was from the front or back of the connector).
Bent contacts are obvious and you soon recognise which ones need opening out slightly.
This should fix any comms problems.

[egore]

success i first replaced the temperture sensor the one with the 2 pin plug made no differance,moved on to the crankshaft sensor and replaced that (easy) the car now performs normally test drive on dual carriageway and in town for 50miles i am not refitting the under engine cover just yet though.The sensor was £24+vat euro car parts the old one was a boschs and lasted for 65k about 8 years old i think that these units must be temperture sensitive but i do not know why try this before replacing the ecu (save money)

[goonv6]

I wasjust about to say temperature sensor. Its a well known GM fault that goes back years. I had the smae problem (on all things!) on my Chevy Camaro 5.7. 4-5 miles nothing and then misfiring, stuttering conking out. Limp home. I replaced everything and then a real expert told me. £6.00 later and the problem has never returned. The sensor, if faulty believes that the engine is cold when it is in fact hot and therefore forces the ECU into acting like the car is on cold start up. Replace this before anything else. 

[espen22]

I am afraid I have not managed to solve this problem.  The car has been parked up for the last few months as no mechanic seems to be able to sort it out for me.  I am trying to source a second hand ECU as I can't afford to gamble over €1000 on a new one on the off chance it is the ECU.

First of all, are the workshop using a genuine tech when they try to connect to the car?

Do you have any chiptuners nearby?
They can hook up to the ecu and read out the type of ecu, sw, and hw numbers.