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[pcd]

I NEED SOME INFO,i have cleaned my lift pump,and my 2.5bmw td is still slow to start when left for a day or two,am i right in thinking that even if the lift pump is kaput that the car will start eventually,i didnt test it when i cleaned it,plus i need to know what else i should clean out,im not new to oil burners but im not familar with this engine.it seems slow on pick up and as the previous owner only did about 5,000 miles per year for the last 4 years,i think it needs some attention,pipes valves etc,so any advice would be helpful also where everything is,i guess the fact that it sounds like a tractor is normal,but i have always fancied one of these so im prepared to live with it,so any advice please.

[ali]

I think this should be in general help. Im sure someone will move it for you I have had same kind of problems and have ended up replacing battery, pipes,filters, glow plugs etc and general tlc and the tractor is now running alot better. what does the paper clip test tell you :-?

[pcd]

not had the bottle to do that,thought i would do basic maintanance first,it seems as if im waiting for fuel to arrive,woundering if it drains back to tank which is quite full,but i have noticed today injector No6 leaking where it enters the head,would this affect compression?Any help.Need to change fuel filter(where is it)

[Marks DTM Calib]

You want no leaks around injectors.

Also, check the injector blees off pipes.

If any air gets into the system than it will take more cranking to start it up.

[Seth]

Before going any further, remove the tank filler cap, get an assistant to turn the key to it's second position, then listen closely by the filler neck.
You should hear the in-tank pump running for a short while. It will then stop running once the fuel system is pressurized. The injection pump then takes over.

As an aside, it's a pretty sure bet that the in-tank pump is weak if starting is difficult when the tank's fuel level is around the 20 litre mark.


You need to change ALL the leak-off pipes too.
Get a metre length from local factors - cheap and simple to do!

[pcd]

thanks will try to listen for the pump,car has done 131000 and has had the pump changed not sure at what milage,is the info on how to change fuel filter on the forum?,if not can any one help,bleed pipes changed,on No 6 injector,the one nearer the bulk head theres a screw in a pipe,not sure what thats for and do bleed pipes fit in a particular order as i removed mine but didnt notice in what order they were fitted,i just need a reliable starter,cheers

[Turk]

The screw is probably instead of the blanking plug normally fitted, and your leaking injector is probably just a spill pipe issue that should hopefully be sorted by the pipe replacement.
Not sure whether you'll hear the pump running. Both my pumps had just a faint buzz when briefly connected to 12v to test (don't run them too long when removed from the tank, just a quick check.)
Running in diesel would dampen any sound even further I'd say.
I couldn't even hear mine when listening directly against the plastic pump cover. No vibration either.
Pulled it out, cleaned out the filter and the bottom of the pump pot, quick check by connecting to 12v to confirm all ok and re-fitted. Sorted.
Sethsmate will confirm that a decent battery will make a world of difference. 
131k is nothing to a tractor that's had the oil changed religiously every 4k miles, (4.5k miles as a max !).
My '94 Tractor had 225k miles on the clock and the motor was sweet as can be. In fact if anything, I'd say slightly sweeter than my current '00.

[Seth]

Yep, battery needs to be 110% on a tractor - and it MUST be model-specific!
The eternal hot-starting problem on 2.5TDs has also been cured by fitting this on several tractors here.