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[nordic]

I have a 3.0 V6 Omega (facelift). The car has been running roughly and the paperclip test revealed fault code (19). I replaced the crankshaft sensor with a genuine Bosch part from the dealer. It was the correct sensor with the same part no. as the one that came off.

The car ran roughly again and the fault code 19 remained. I replaced the crankshaft sensor again with another genuine Bosch part but the fault code 19 will not erase and the car is running roughly. Sometimes fails to start and will cut-out.

The car is in exceptional condition with only 60k on the clock. New plugs, leads, coil pack and all the usual problems checked and none found.

Some have said that the angle of the sensor can make a big difference. But I have found it is inserted with no room for altering any angle? It is simply inserted and bolted on?

The sensor is covered in oil when removed. The car has always had fully-synthetic oil changes - but will dirty oil impact upon the senosrs ability to read?

Does the battery have to be disconnected to erase the fault codes?

I am at the end of my tether as the car is stranded!

Any help or direction would be welcome.

Thanks

Andy

[Andy H]

I think fault codes clear after 25 'cycles' (start from cold & warm up to full operating temperature). Removing the battery doesn't clear the fault codes, you need to connect a professional diagnostic tool (preferably the Vauxhall Tech2 but there are others that also work).

Have you done many miles since the new crank sensor was fitted?

If you update your profile someone nearby with Tech2 may volunteer to help diagnose the problem.

[Entwood]

Some faults clear the moment the problem is resolved .. and I thought 19 was one of those.

Of more concern to me is the fact that it is still running rough which implies the fault still exists .. regardless of the light being on ....

If the fault had gone and the light was "historical" the engine would run smoothly IMHO.

Given it's saying a 19, and you've changed the sensor a couple of times I would be thinking either wiring or internal sender.

Now as the internal sender is probably inaccessible I would be checking the wiring ... first the plugs.. are they making proper connections, then trace it back as far as possible. The "old wiring" went pretty close to the exhaust, so did anything get damaged, have you re-routed as the guide suggests ??

[albitz]

Sensor covered in oil,prabably due to camcover gasket failure which is damaging plugs/leads/dispack which would cause engine to run roughly.As said engine needs around 25 starts to clear the code 19.Was the wire from new sensor routed as per the maintenance guide or the same as original.If the same as original it will soon start to fry the wires internally again.

[ffcgary1]

I would have thought it was nearly impossible to route the cable as per the factory effort thats why we cut the old cables and dont try to remove the old wires. running rough could be oil in plug wells and poss fried leads and dis pac. check these next. Pls let us know what you find and post up on here.
   Gary.

[nordic]

Thanks guys for your help so far.

I have replaced the plugs and leads and replaced the Coil pack and re-mounted it. All genuine Bosch parts.Only 1000 miles ago.

The Crankshaft sensor was re-routed and located well away from the exhaust.

After replacing the crankshaft sensor, the first time, I drove the car for about 6 miles. Started and stopped it about six times on the route. When the paperclip test was done it read 19. Car ran rough. As if it had a hole in the downpipe (doe not).

Drove the car again for another 10 miles a day later and did the paperclip test again - fault code 19. When reversing it into the garage it stalled and would not restart.

A new Crankshaft sensor has now been fitted but I have not fired it up more that three time to see if the fault code disappears?

I will continue to restart it a number of times but I am reluctant to try to take it for a run just yet as I have to replace all the wiper mechanism etc.

Could it be the ECU?

I will recheck the plugs and leads - would fault with them bring fault code 19?

Your help is really appreciated as I am lost

Thanks guys.

[Andy H]

The nose of the crank position sensor is inside the engine a few thousandths of an inch away from the toothed wheel (more like a ring with square holes in it) at the back of the crankshaft. It will be bathed in oil when the engine is running. The outside of it is next to the oil filter. It might stay clean but is more than likely to have oil on it due to a filter change or oil leaking from the cam cover.

Do your warning lights go out when the engine is running? If they do then the codes you are reading are old stored codes. Unfortunately I am not sure whether the paperclip trick gives you stored codes or only current codes.

Faulty crank position sensors seem to cause the engine not to run at all rather than run rough so there may be some other problem that needs fixing.

[nordic]

Thanks,

There are no warning lights upon the dash at all.

Only when I do the 'paper clip' test do I get fault code 19.

I am going to replace the oil and the filter. Will a blocked filter cause problems with the sensor's ability to read the ring?

Would a blocked filter cause oil to by-pass it - could this impact upon the sensor?

I am going to check plugs, leads and any signs of air leaks.

The car was difficult to start with the 1st replacement crankshaft sensor. Particularly when hot.

Thanks for your kind help.

[Andy H]

Though the filter is next to the crank position sensor they are in no way connected. The oil on the sensor gets there because it is flung off the crankshaft (the sensor doesn't need oil to work, it just needs to be close to the toothed wheel).

If we ignore the codes and the work you have done so far but concentrate on the symptoms. Things that often cause rough running are:
-faulty MAF sensor
-faulty air temperature sensor (it is is part of the MAF on a facelift)
-sticky Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)
-sticky Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR)
-blocked crankcase breathers.

If you tell us more about when it runs roughly and any other symptoms (stalling?) we can steer you towards the likely cause.

For example a quick and dirty check for a faulty MAF is to try running the engine with it disconnected (which forces the ECU to use default values) but this will bring up a new fault code and may make cold starting even worse.

[blue_dream]

Hi
   I would change the MAF sencer for a know good one first, 10 min job, are expensive to buy new, i  had the same problems, replaced with a good one, my fathers car, after a ten mile drive everything was fine, with mine it would cut out hot, use loads of petrol and stalling at busy juntions .... try this 

[nordic]

UPDATE

Just taken out all the spark plugs and no sign of oil at all.

Will it be the MAF? Expensive to replace as a speculative check?!!!!

[nordic]

UPDATE 2

It's not the crankcase breathers - There super clean.

ICV appears to be in 'top nick' also. Just cleaned it with carbon tet. but it really did not need it.

Could anyone tell me where the EGR is and how to check if its working?

Many thanks for all your kind help so far.

[Andy H]

EGR in the first photo in this thread http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189893357

[nordic]

Many thanks.

Will check this and get back.

Thanks for your kind help.

[nordic]

UPDATE

Having replaced the crankshaft sensor the fault code 19 still remains but I am going to see if it eventually goes away?

My replacing the first new crankshaft sensor was because the code remained when doing the paperclip test. Also the car had difficulty starting.

Having started the car with the new crankshaft sensor the car ran - still not perfect on idle and it growls when put into reverse - but then the battery died in the cold.

The faulty battery was probably incorrectly pushing me in the direction that the first crankshaft sensor was faulty!

Fitted a new BOSCH S5004 Battery.

Sadly, I can't test the car in the snow as it slides everywhere with Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres.

So before you go replacing crankshaft sensor after crankshaft sensor - test your battery!

I think I will have to buy a code reader and code eraser. Any ideas how much these cost and which are best?

Thanks all for your greatly appreciated help.

Andy