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[Impact Pete]

Hi I have decided to sort my mot failed car out, I'm getting some nice people on here to sort some jobs out(still to arrange) but to keep the costs down I'm sorting a few simple bits out myself,

Quick question really if the front brakes failed on the application being uneven what should I be looking out for as the cause.

Also it failed on front brakes imbalanced, any ideas?

I was tempted to take to different Mot station as I replaced brakes and discs 8 months ago by the book and they are pretty good they certainly don't pull to left or right.
Any advice to help me get my V6 back on the road where it belongs would be great

[rustym95]

sounds like the disc's are going rust built up, best just to get new set, if been stud for a long time out side the get damaged, would just get new disc's and pads better in the long run. if you look on the back of the disc's if bad should see the rust ring if more than an inch they are gone. very common.

[Impact Pete]

sounds like the disc's are going rust built up, best just to get new set, if been stud for a long time out side the get damaged, would just get new disc's and pads better in the long run. if you look on the back of the disc's if bad should see the rust ring if more than an inch they are gone. very common.

As mentioned though I replaced them in Aug 2009, they are in perfect nick and so are pads

[rustym95]

when was the mot how long has it been off the road for?

[rustym95]

Hi I have decided to sort my mot failed car out, I'm getting some nice people on here to sort some jobs out(still to arrange) but to keep the costs down I'm sorting a few simple bits out myself,

Quick question really if the front brakes failed on the application being uneven what should I be looking out for as the cause.

Also it failed on front brakes imbalanced, any ideas?

I was tempted to take to different Mot station as I replaced brakes and discs 8 months ago by the book and they are pretty good they certainly don't pull to left or right.
Any advice to help me get my V6 back on the road where it belongs would be great

application being uneven  means rust or groves in the disc or brake pads causing uneven waer.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Lets do the basics first....

Service them......wheels off, pads out, check the sliders are free.

Also, bleed the brakes and when you have the bleed nipple open to do this, squeeze the caliper piston in fully.

make sure the pads are fitted correctly

I recall you also had rear wheel bearing/handbrake issues.

Make sure the nut on the rear hub is fully tight and service and adjust the handbrake setup as per the maintenance guide, dont cut corners on it, do it as prescribed. When checking for play do so with the wheel attached.

The brake pipe corrosion is a sign of the times with minimal servicing....

[Ken L]

The uneven braking/inbalance will be caused by the pistons sticking in the caliper at one side, or even both sides but not evenly.
  Don't replace the discs and pads,, they will clean up if some rust has appeared due to being stood, unless it's been stood in wet conditions for years.

Take the calipers of, and refurb them, clean all the pistons and fit new seals, make sure they are all going in and out easily with no sticking areas.
  The  worst side will have shown up in the MOT.

[Ken L]

Must type faster.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Right...I am going to make one comment here.....lets not advise on re-furbs and replacement of anything until we have completed the basics.....which includes simple inspection and things of zero cost.

By diving and doing things willy nilly we only complicate the issues as you can end up with the fault still being present and a question mark over the new/re-furbed work that has been carried out (as just beacause soemthing is new, does not mean its guaranteed to work as all items suffer from DOA's!).

Its this approach that is all to evident in some garages resulting in items being changed unneccassarily.

The number 1 rule.....check, inspect, confirm, replace.... not replace, replace, replace, replace 

Sorry, sermon over 

[Impact Pete]

only been off road since monday.

I will have to strip all brakes down again.. as mentioned they were all good in August no sticking pistons, no corrosion just worn pads and discs at the time.
I guess as the brake pipes need replacing(still original) I can do most of the checking then, Due to the continuous cam cover oil leaks everything under the car generally is constantly covered in oil, but it has not got into braking system

[Dishevelled Den]

Right...I am going to make one comment here.....lets not advise on re-furbs and replacement of anything until we have completed the basics.....which includes simple inspection and things of zero cost.

By diving and doing things willy nilly we only complicate the issues as you can end up with the fault still being present and a question mark over the new/re-furbed work that has been carried out (as just beacause soemthing is new, does not mean its guaranteed to work as all items suffer from DOA's!).

Its this approach that is all to evident in some garages resulting in items being changed unneccassarily.

The number 1 rule.....check, inspect, confirm, replace.... not replace, replace, replace, replace 

Sorry, sermon over 

A sermon that conveyed a very important message for the flock 8-)

[The Red Baron]

Right...I am going to make one comment here.....lets not advise on re-furbs and replacement of anything until we have completed the basics.....which includes simple inspection and things of zero cost.

By diving and doing things willy nilly we only complicate the issues as you can end up with the fault still being present and a question mark over the new/re-furbed work that has been carried out (as just beacause soemthing is new, does not mean its guaranteed to work as all items suffer from DOA's!).

Its this approach that is all to evident in some garages resulting in items being changed unneccassarily.

The number 1 rule.....check, inspect, confirm, replace.... not replace, replace, replace, replace 

Sorry, sermon over 

but very true mark.

[Marks DTM Calib]

only been off road since monday.

I will have to strip all brakes down again.. as mentioned they were all good in August no sticking pistons, no corrosion just worn pads and discs at the time.
I guess as the brake pipes need replacing(still original) I can do most of the checking then, Due to the continuous cam cover oil leaks everything under the car generally is constantly covered in oil, but it has not got into braking system

If something is sticking, it will be clear on inspection.....as brake pad wear wont be even and something will/may be stuck.

Remember that air in the caliper cylinder will also give un-even braking effort to but, pad wear on that caliper will still be even (but less than the opposing side). 

Now onto the history bit.

Unlike some makes (FORD) Omega front brakes are pretty bomb proof, calipers suffer all but zero failures and the brake setup is pretty bomb proof.

The rears are a different matter, the handbrake setup needs servicing correctly and setting up in the correct sequence (as do ALL makes but, many still dont follow or know the basics sadly). The pads are know to seize into the calipers causing un-even braking etc but again, proper servicing keeps on top of this

[Ken L]

Who you havin' a go at here? I wasn't advising replace, but to refurb by cleaning the the parts so that they move freely. I think if you're removing seals  to clean up the caliper pistons, it's a good idea to fit new ones on re-assembly as they can be damaged when removing, or could be worn anyway.

 I've had this uneven braking several times, and it's always been sticking pistons, usually just on one side.

[Impact Pete]

Right...I am going to make one comment here.....lets not advise on re-furbs and replacement of anything until we have completed the basics.....which includes simple inspection and things of zero cost.

By diving and doing things willy nilly we only complicate the issues as you can end up with the fault still being present and a question mark over the new/re-furbed work that has been carried out (as just beacause soemthing is new, does not mean its guaranteed to work as all items suffer from DOA's!).

Its this approach that is all to evident in some garages resulting in items being changed unneccassarily.

The number 1 rule.....check, inspect, confirm, replace.... not replace, replace, replace, replace 

Sorry, sermon over 

Good point, still wish I went to ALans test centre as per last three years as it's always passed with just advisories, then I'm able to sort the advisories out during the year, I went to a new mot place and they didn't pick up on some of last years advisories ie windscreen damage within zone A and indicators discolouration, minor points but shows that differnt MOT garages pick up differnt things.

All I know is the cars going to get some very Tender loving care this weekend!