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Author Topic: Rear crank seal change  (Read 968 times)

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Bumbazor

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Rear crank seal change
« on: 20 February 2010, 21:34:35 »
Is it just a case of dropping the gearbox and removing the flywheel?
Is there a guide anywhere (I can't find anything in maintenance)?

Thanks
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To do: Replace brake discs and pads; adjust already replaced shoes; check for leaks in oil cooler, cambelt area, crank seals, sump, dipstick; replace osf door; replace a tyre; clean, MOT.

SnakePliskin

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Re: Rear crank seal change
« Reply #1 on: 20 February 2010, 21:35:18 »
Yes it is matey!!!

I had the same issue on my Volvo T5
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Love VX's always Have

Andy B

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Re: Rear crank seal change
« Reply #2 on: 20 February 2010, 21:37:50 »
Quote
Is it just a case of dropping the gearbox and removing the flywheel?
Is there a guide anywhere (I can't find anything in maintenance)?

Thanks

When you remove any lip seal, it can help if you drill the face ie the bit with the sizes & manufactures name on, & screw in a couple of self tappers. These then give you something to pull against rather than trying to poke screw drivers etc between the shaft & seal.  ;)
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Matchless

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Re: Rear crank seal change
« Reply #3 on: 20 February 2010, 23:48:28 »
When you fit the new seal you have to make a guide for the seal lip.
Use some brass shim stock or cut up a coke tin etc, make a sleeve which is a tight fit on the cramk, wrap it in sellotapeTM to protect the seal, it needs to be about 1" deep.
Oil the seal lips then fit the sleeve inside it, slide the sleeve over the crank and press / tap the seal into place then pull the sleeve out.

If you try to fit without the sleeve you will find the seal lip gets caught and damaged on the crank nose so will leak worse than the old one.
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