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[Squealey]

Did the track rod end on my Elite the other day, all went swimmingly, no problems at all. Counted the rotations off then counted them back on again.

Took the car for a quick spin and the steering is now no longer central, its actually quite a way off.

There was play in the old one (hence the change) but not THAT much (borderline MOT failure sort of movement)

Looks like even more expense getting the tracking done now

[TheBoy]

Yup, I've a;lways noticed the same

[Kevin Wood]

Sometimes the threaded section varies in length, especially with pattern parts, so screwing in the same number of turns doesn't necessarily restore the correct toe.


Kevin

[jonny2112]

Would it be worth doing both sides? Especially if you are going to pay for alignment, etc.

[Squealey]

Would it be worth doing both sides? Especially if you are going to pay for alignment, etc.

If I had a bit more cash then I might have, but its already cost me a packet in the last couple of weeks and tbh the other one is as tight as a drum.

[jonny2112]

That was me last year! I just changed the passenger side following MOT fail, but the steering wheel now sits off centre. Never got round to changing the other side and put up with the steering wheel. I had spent a fortune prior to this in alignment checks, which never seemed to work properly anyway. Passed MOT in that respect this year (tho failed on handbrake ) but I think I'll probably get round to changing it at some point anyway.

[Kevin Wood]

Looks like even more expense getting the tracking done now

If funds are tight, there is a stop gap method..

You know the other side is correct, and that only one variable was changed, so adjust the new TRE until you have a straight steering wheel again.

Having said that, tyres are expensive relative to a tracking adjustment, and can be eaten in short order by a misaligned car. :-/

Kevin

[Jimbob]

when i did mine, I took the old one off, set the new one to the same length, fitted new one.

Steering is fine.

Had the geometry check afterwards and it was very close to perfect 

[Gaffers]

Looks like even more expense getting the tracking done now

If funds are tight, there is a stop gap method..

You know the other side is correct, and that only one variable was changed, so adjust the new TRE until you have a straight steering wheel again.

Having said that, tyres are expensive relative to a tracking adjustment, and can be eaten in short order by a misaligned car. :-/

Kevin

Was going to suggest the same thing, if you adjust the one you changed until the steering is as before you'll be almost as spot on as any spanner monkey will be with his 'pro' kit (previous comments excludes people who know what they are doing like WIM of course! )

It will certainly keep you going until you have the funds to get to WIM 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Or, if you have a laser level....place it on the opposite side with the steering set straight ahead and move the lvel out from the rim until the beam touches a datum on the rear arch.....measure the distance between the level and the rim.

Repeat on the other side to the same datum.....adjust the track rod end until the distance is the same.

[Seth]

Sometimes the threaded section varies in length, especially with pattern parts, so screwing in the same number of turns doesn't necessarily restore the correct toe.


Kevin

And it depends on where the actual thread 'cut' begins on the replacement tie-rod that you've fitted.
 

[jonny2112]

Despite spending the fortune on tracking, etc my car suffers from camber issues, and the front tyres always wear badly on the inner edge. I didn't realise how bad they were this time round but did not notice that the passenger side didn't seem to be as badly worn as the (unchanged) driver's side.

[Entwood]

Despite spending the fortune on tracking, etc my car suffers from camber issues, and the front tyres always wear badly on the inner edge. I didn't realise how bad they were this time round but did not notice that the passenger side didn't seem to be as badly worn as the (unchanged) driver's side.

Camber and tracking are 2 different animals completely ..


http://www.blackboots.co.uk/tech-geometrytheory.php

[jonny2112]

Sorry, forgive my ignorance in this field! I take it poor camber causes the tyres to wear on the inside. I do believe it was the tyre issue that I requested be fixed when I left the car in. I was told that it is difficult to rectify, and to be honest I don't recall if any improvements were made at all. I just buy cheaper tyres now!

[Entwood]

In its simplicity ..

Tracking is the "pointing in / pointing out" of the tyres from the straight ahead position measured through the 9 -3 o'clock ie horizontal plane - and can be adjusted fairly easily by any most garages

Camber is the "uprightness"  of the wheel, measured through the 6 - 12 o'clock position, measured in the vertical plane - and is only measured accurately by garages with specialist equipment. Those that have the kit - and know how to use it - can set it spot on in just a few minutes.

Omega's are prone to camber issues.. and as you have seen .. this usually gives wear on the inner edges as the wheel is not sitting vertical to the ground.

The angle of the wheel changes as the suspension moves, both with age, load and cornering forces, it is therefore very important that this is set correctly, or you will wreck a set of tyres in a few thousand miles.