wim rarely mess with castor angle ime, but they are without doubt your best bet tbh.
However, in my pre forum days i was told about Micheldever tyres, massive opperation so personal service suffers, but, i was lucky enough to get thier best technician i believe.
He allowed me in the pit to see what he was doing under the car, first question he asked,"how quickly does the steering return to centre if you pull out of a side road" i said its a bit slow, have to pull it back straight sometimes, pressures checked, then he said "that matches the figures, its raked out too far, these arent adjustable for caster but theres no location on the subframe, the factory just fire the bolts in with a windy gun, dont give a rats arse about the position" he took the bolt out and from memory the hole was concideably bigger than the bolt, i suppose it could give 10mill variation in subframe position or something like.
So, as said, its not adjustable but it can be altered within the subframe holes, and certainly remember the improvement once sorted. If its twisted it can set the car in a crab position where the rear wheels are set off to the side and dont sit in the front wheels track, but same with the rear subframe of course, and that is a real pig to line up, both may then give an off centre steering wheel, which is then corrected via track rod adjustment or if seezed they move the steering wheel meaning the steering box is no longer centred as we've recently discovered from Woody on here.
Ride hight comes into it, if a section of spring is missing say or the car sits low on one corner for whatever reason, then the strut angle changes, same as the camber changes with suspension movement/ride hight(jack the car with both front wheels hanging and look at the camber from the front of the car, you'll see), its why vx say to put the average drivers weight in the drivers seat during set up, although wim work to a camber setting of 1°10minutes unweighted as they have worked out a setting for use with high mileage suspenssion, far more precise than factory spec. of 2°15 minutes max or something daft.
usual advice still follows though, fix all suspension and steering faults first, then set up, then fit new tyres, in theory it "should" then be better than new, IF they know what they're doing.