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[Simon72]

Hello,

Can anyone tell me the part number that is required for the 2.2 DTI Omega Estate CD FRONT BRAKE PADS

I have searched many sites on the net and they all list 2 versions for the Model???

Also any advice on type / price etc that people use on here.

And would it be worth just going the full hog and getting some top class pads and some groved / cross drilled disks at the same time?

Confused, need to change my front pads soon due to they are 80% worn according to the MOT advisory.

Cheers Simon

[Entwood]

From Trade club site

All models exc. 2.0 to '97              9192124        £25.25        £21.51        £14.43
 
2.0 to '97                                        9192123       £25.25       £21.51       £14.43

Yours is NOT a 2.0 to '97   so 9192124 applies IMHO ..

[Andy B]

Hello,

Can anyone tell me the part number that is required for the 2.2 DTI Omega Estate CD FRONT BRAKE PADS

I have searched many sites on the net and they all list 2 versions for the Model???

Also any advice on type / price etc that people use on here.

And would it be worth just going the full hog and getting some top class pads and some groved / cross drilled disks at the same time?

Confused, need to change my front pads soon due to they are 80% worn according to the MOT advisory.

Cheers Simon

All Omegas with the exception of very early 2.0 litre cars use the same pads, whether they're a V6 or 4 pot diseasal. If the OE set up will stop a 150mph V6 then it's more than capable of stopping a 2.2 diesal   

Omega Part Number Retail Price Normal Trade Trade Club
Brake pads, front (axle set)
All models exc. 2.0 to '97                               9192124 £25.25 £21.51 £14.43

 
2.0 to '97                                  9192123 £25.25 £21.51 £14.43

[Simon72]

Thanks for the reply

So I will now go out and either buy OEm or Aftermarket ones.

(9192124)

Next question, I have changed pads MANY times before and I know that some cars require special tools to wind back the piston.

Do I need anything special for the Omega or is it just a G-CLAMP jobby to push piston back.  8-)

Cheers again

Simon

[Entwood]

I use a large pair of plumbers pliers ... there is a nice "indent" on the rear of the caliper, and the large pliers cover the whole of the plunger to ensure it is squeezed back "squarely" ... has worked well for me so far ..

[tunnie]

will need to be huge G clamp, i use same as entwood and huge plumbers pliers to squash the caliper back in, i'd personally junk the alloy wheel nuts during the change and get yourself a pot of copper slip, to put on the wheel nuts, and outside of the pad, also edges, stops squeaking 

[Simon72]

will need to be huge G clamp, i use same as entwood and huge plumbers pliers to squash the caliper back in, i'd personally junk the alloy wheel nuts during the change and get yourself a pot of copper slip, to put on the wheel nuts, and outside of the pad, also edges, stops squeaking 

What do you mean by JUNK??
Do you mean replace them, and WHY if you do, mine are in perfect condition, due to it have EXTREMELY low mileage.

[tunnie]

will need to be huge G clamp, i use same as entwood and huge plumbers pliers to squash the caliper back in, i'd personally junk the alloy wheel nuts during the change and get yourself a pot of copper slip, to put on the wheel nuts, and outside of the pad, also edges, stops squeaking 

What do you mean by JUNK??
Do you mean replace them, and WHY if you do, mine are in perfect condition, due to it have EXTREMELY low mileage.

Throw them away and use regular bolts, they keys to unlock them are about as strong as toffee (even brand spanking new) They may look nice on the outside, but if its been a few years since wheels were off and no copper slip used, add to that a mechanic with an air gun, those locking nuts are a pain.

[Simon72]

will need to be huge G clamp, i use same as entwood and huge plumbers pliers to squash the caliper back in, i'd personally junk the alloy wheel nuts during the change and get yourself a pot of copper slip, to put on the wheel nuts, and outside of the pad, also edges, stops squeaking 

What do you mean by JUNK??
Do you mean replace them, and WHY if you do, mine are in perfect condition, due to it have EXTREMELY low mileage.

Throw them away and use regular bolts, they keys to unlock them are about as strong as toffee (even brand spanking new) They may look nice on the outside, but if its been a few years since wheels were off and no copper slip used, add to that a mechanic with an air gun, those locking nuts are a pain.

So you are on about the Locking Alloy Wheel Nuts?? NOT all the nuts.

But I will have to put locking ones back on after and at that price its rediculous to be buying Locking nuts everytime.

[Andy B]

....
But I will have to put locking ones back on after and at that price its rediculous to be buying Locking nuts everytime.

The point Tunnie is making, is that the locking bolts can be a pain in the bum to remove. They can be even moe of a pain if you need to remove them on the hard shoulder in th epiddling rain if the tyre monkey has used his windy gun to tighten them to stupid ftlb and you can't undo the bugger. 

[markfree]

I removed my locking wheel nuts prior to having my (3) tyres replaced - good job I did as the wheel-nuts were done up so tight I had to jump up and down on the wheel brace to loosen them - almost certainly would have busted the unlocking wheel nut.

[MickAP]

Never had a problem here removing my locking nuts
I think problems arise when the key part is worn, because they have not been inserted properly.
Like said used correctly they are ok, not some grease monkey at you local tyre fitting place abusing them, you know what I mean

Mick

[bri cox]

up to now i havent had any problems with my nuts 
 just make sure you dont let an idot with an air gun anywhere near them and keep them greased up you should be fine its worked for me for years