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[hotel21]

If you can get broken studs out with a pair of pliers how come they sheared off?

There was a chunk of metal between the head of the bolt and what the bolt (now stud, after head of it sheared) which created the tension.  If the shank of the bolt was also gummed onto the hole in the caliper bracket then that would add to the tension, thus increasing the probability of heads to shear.

Perhaps!   

[ianu]

..wow that was lucky - I've just done this on mine at the  weekend and using the guide on the forum it was the easiest job I've done (I couldn't get the d*mn wear sensor out either and managed to break it - just picked up a new one today). I did have to use a longer bar for the 18mm bolts - but they finally relinquished their grip. It's a pretty awkward angle to get 90Nm of torque back on them too unless you're right under the car....
I also took the opportunity to clean the calipers and sliders and gave them a coat of black caliper enamel and red enamel picking out the Lucas and Opel lettering  8-)(very sad I know) - looks very smart though. The discs - black with a red pin line round the hub - even sadder  8-) 8-)
I just need to do the rears now...

[Chris_H]

..wow that was lucky - I've just done this on mine at the  weekend and using the guide on the forum it was the easiest job I've done (I couldn't get the d*mn wear sensor out either and managed to break it - just picked up a new one today). I did have to use a longer bar for the 18mm bolts - but they finally relinquished their grip. It's a pretty awkward angle to get 90Nm of torque back on them too unless you're right under the car....
I also took the opportunity to clean the calipers and sliders and gave them a coat of black caliper enamel and red enamel picking out the Lucas and Opel lettering  8-)(very sad I know) - looks very smart though. The discs - black with a red pin line round the hub - even sadder  8-) 8-)
I just need to do the rears now...

Painting discs isn't going to help them disperse heat - which is what they're there for.

[aaronjb]

If you can get broken studs out with a pair of pliers how come they sheared off?

There was a chunk of metal between the head of the bolt and what the bolt (now stud, after head of it sheared) which created the tension. 

Yeah, that.. the tension on the inner face of the bolt head creates tension along the length of the bolt thread, it's that tension (between the bolt thread face and the hole thread face) that keeps the bolt done up.

As soon as you've sheared the head off the bolt, the tension is gone from the threads and it spins out easily..

Not always, of course, sometimes they're just rusted in place :lol:

[Alldi]

Good to hear you've managed to get it sorted and my advice helped, happy motoring!

[shane1000]

you could try drilling a bore hole in the broken studs and tapping a reverse thread into it , then screw in a smaller hex head bolt so the head of the bolt sits flush with the surface of the stud .. useing a socket this usually works on removing broken studs..  as for seized bolts i find coca-cola is great.. if you get a freezer bag from your missus and seal it around the caliper , then fill with cola and let it stand for a few hours , the cola removes rust and helps free the bolt ( a good 10hrs soak)

[dbug]

you could try drilling a bore hole in the broken studs and tapping a reverse thread into it , then screw in a smaller hex head bolt so the head of the bolt sits flush with the surface of the stud .. useing a socket this usually works on removing broken studs..  as for seized bolts i find coca-cola is great.. if you get a freezer bag from your missus and seal it around the caliper , then fill with cola and let it stand for a few hours , the cola removes rust and helps free the bolt ( a good 10hrs soak)

The old school - don't drink the stuff - use as a de-ruster - mechanics back in the 60s always sprayed rusty bolts with coca cola - never failed