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Author Topic: 2001 Omega 2.6 V6 - Oil Problem  (Read 1795 times)

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feeutfo

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Re: 2001 Omega 2.6 V6 - Oil Problem
« Reply #15 on: 23 August 2010, 21:33:23 »

Pervious post I've seen with oil smell in the car have been cam cover seals leaking on the pollen filter/oil filler side of the engine. Oil leaks from cam cover onto exhaust manifold heat shield below and burns. Air flow takes the fumes rearward directly into the air intake for the climate control/cabin.

Nothing unusual, the seals go hard with age or the breather block. Must use genuine seals and thoroughly clean and check the breathers are clear. Easy way to check is to remove the rubber pipes at the back of plenum and blow by mouth through both ways.

Would not smell oil in the car if it was stem seals, although they may well need doing.
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Andy H

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Re: 2001 Omega 2.6 V6 - Oil Problem
« Reply #16 on: 23 August 2010, 23:07:00 »

I have changed the stem seals on an old Landrover without taking the head off, I don't know if it would work so well on an Omega  :-/

1.  I made an adapter to allow me to connect an airline to the spark plug hole (I took an old spark plug, smashed the insulator and then welded a quick release air line fitting into it).

2. I made a lever that allowed me to compress the valve springs and get the collets out. On the landrover I was able to hook it under the rocker shaft. On the Omega I would consider removing the camshafts & followers (tappets) & using a dummy shaft to apply the pressure. (I would be very carefull not to damage the camshaft bearing surfaces).

I found that winding up the pressure regulator (slowly) to about 65psi forced the piston down to the bottom of its stroke and applied sufficient pressure on the valve to keep it shut while I hoiked the collets out.

HTH
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Andy B

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Re: 2001 Omega 2.6 V6 - Oil Problem
« Reply #17 on: 23 August 2010, 23:30:25 »

Quote
.....

1.  I made an adapter to allow me to connect an airline to the spark plug hole (I took an old spark plug, smashed the insulator and then welded a quick release air line fitting into it).
 ......
I found that winding up the pressure regulator (slowly) to about 65psi forced the piston down to the bottom of its stroke and applied sufficient pressure on the valve to keep it shut while I hoiked the collets out.

HTH

a length of soft cord fed into the bore and then lifting the appropiate piston works very well too.  :y
I've fitted stem seals to a Ford Essex engine without taking the heads off. I made a fork that pressed onto the collet retainer mounted on a stud fitted where the tappet rail would normally fit.  :y
All because my Dad had this row of stem seals left over after completing some head work on his car.  ::)  ::)  ::)
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