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[Broomies Mate]

Cheers Guy's.

In a weird way, this system is a complete waste of time..... you are heating something which manufacturers spend billions on trying to keep cool 

The heater in the sump is what I would like, but, too much work to save myself 3 or 4 minutes of 'slow(ish)' driving of a morn!

The cold oil in the bottom of the sump would very quickly be brought up to engine temp if the rest of the block & coolant were already hot. 

You are probably very right.  This is something I will seriously consider doing before the cold sets in. 

[Andy B]

.....  This is something I will seriously consider doing before the cold sets in. 

Does it ever get cold in Brizzol?       

[Broomies Mate]

.....  This is something I will seriously consider doing before the cold sets in. 

Does it ever get cold in Brizzol?       

Cold enough to do some damage when you want to be at full throttle 45 seconds from cold start

[Andy B]

.....Cold enough to do some damage when you want to be at full throttle 45 seconds from cold start

A very valid point!     

[Broomies Mate]

.....Cold enough to do some damage when you want to be at full throttle 45 seconds from cold start

A very valid point!     

Some Oil brands (I wont mention any names) but Castrol GTX Magnetec claims to be as good from cold as it is hot.

I use GM Oil, as it's cheap, and seems to be the preferred tipple. 

Does this (mentioning no brands) Castrol GTX Magnetec stuff really work, or is it just advertising spiel?

[Cliffo B]

the system comprises mains powered coolant heater 3K heater element cylinder, seperate 12V auxilery pump with independant 12V psu and all the supporting armoured wire sockets etc. Its a proper piece of kit don't forget its used by emergency vehicles on call etc I care very much for my motor and have no worries about useing the engine to its full potential on start up it's as if it's been on a good long run never checked the oil temp but don't think it comes into the frame that much as I use a fully synthetic 0/40 grade.

[Broomies Mate]

the system comprises mains powered coolant heater 3K heater element cylinder, seperate 12V auxilery pump with independant 12V psu and all the supporting armoured wire sockets etc. Its a proper piece of kit don't forget its used by emergency vehicles on call etc I care very much for my motor and have no worries about useing the engine to its full potential on start up it's as if it's been on a good long run never checked the oil temp but don't think it comes into the frame that much as I use a fully synthetic 0/40 grade.

Is that not a bit thin for this engine?  I popped in 0/30w in my old Omega (3.0) and the oil light would flicker at idle.  Perhaps just a well worn engine.  Drained and filled with 10/40w and all was well again.

[Cliffo B]

Can't understand the logic?? they also spend a tidy sum on developing fast warm ups

[Broomies Mate]

Can't understand the logic?? they also spend a tidy sum on developing fast warm ups

Of coolant?  :-?

[Cliffo B]

 I've always used my oil for years and I suppose its what I have faith in, my engines are always very clean internally and don't appear to wear at all, other oils can be OK also,now haveing said this with my luck a run big end could be on the cards 

[Cliffo B]

Yes on start up how about the engine stat!! I wonder if you follow the logic that the engine pre heater is unplugged before start up.

[Broomies Mate]

Yes on start up how about the engine stat!! I wonder if you follow the logic that the engine pre heater is unplugged before start up.

Of course, I understand the pre-heater is unplugged before start-up.  Although it has been explained that pre-heating the coolant, and therefore the block too will help, without pre-heating the oil, I cant see this being as good as it says it is on the tin.

It's going to be beneficial, so I'll definitely consider fitting one, I just dont want people to believe that it will 'make an engine as "ready to go" as a 20 mile warm up', because it wont. 

[Cliffo B]

also it has it's own controlling stat to bring the coolant to a pre determined temp, there are optional value stats and also heater elements available, I have a 2K heater element as when on mains hookup with the caravan the 3K could easily trip out, it just takes longer to reach temp

[Kevin Wood]

Is that not a bit thin for this engine?  I popped in 0/30w in my old Omega (3.0) and the oil light would flicker at idle.  Perhaps just a well worn engine.  Drained and filled with 10/40w and all was well again.

Don't forget the 0w bit is the winter rating which is only applicable when cold. Cold oil is many times more thick than it is at running temperature anyway, so it's not really a much thinner oil. I use 5w30 GM oil in mine (as specified) and it is fine. Noticeably less (well, none, in fact) lifter noise on a cold start compared to the 10w40.

I still think an engine deserves a little respect after startup, even if pre-heated. The piston-bore clearances, for example, aren't necessarily correct until the engine is not only at normal coolant and oil temperature but when the flow of heat energy from combustion chamber, bore and piston out to the coolant and oil has been established. These parts normally run much hotter than the coolant due to the limited rate at which heat is conducted away from them. On a pre-heated engine we're probably only talking seconds rather than 5 or 10 minutes from cold though.

Kevin

[Cliffo B]

the main reason way back I opted to fit a engine heater to my cav 2L ecotec engine was to give me a quieter smoother cold start. In those days I was a silent engine fanatic, still have the bug to a smaller degree, mechanical noise/clatter simply gells on my nerves. Without doubt even after a night of sub zero temperatures 1hr's heating time and I have a warm engine and a very mechanically quiet start from miggy,even had her plugged in at Keswick (lecky could be classed as free) so based on evidence from my ears less noise means less wear.What can I say just would never be without one,especially in winter.