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Author Topic: What to look out for on an Omega test drive  (Read 967 times)

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Ecobwg

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What to look out for on an Omega test drive
« on: 04 September 2010, 10:29:48 »

Hi again,

I've tried the search but not had much luck, it won't work on searching all posts, perhaps because I'm on mobile bb but thats another issue.

Anyway, I'm looking for a few pointers on what to look out for when test driving and viewing an Omega.

Service history and cambelt, idler and tensioner changes at 40, 80 and 120k I've already heard about.

I'm guessing being a heavy car, that they are hard on suspension? I remember the Carlton was always knocking out ARB bushes.
I've seen a few posts here on front wishbones, is there anything to look out?

Handbrake? I'm guessing this will be like the Carlton's drum under disc arrangement, but do they suffer the same rusting backplate issue?

Any other general issues, noises etc?

Cheers.
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MonzaGSE

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Re: What to look out for on an Omega test drive
« Reply #1 on: 04 September 2010, 12:25:10 »

Handbrake is exactly the same as the carlton and senator/monza. And its usually crap to my experience. The ancorplate rusts out and everything comes loose. Means a brake rebuild every MOT. At least on Norways salted roads:P Rust around the doors edges, the rear wheel arches and the tailgate on estate are also issues. V6 units are also often bothered with gasket failures and oil leaks possibly due to blocked breather system. The original car alarm also seems to be a problem to many.

as for the search function i rather use google. type in site:www.omegaowners.com and then your search string.
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Varche

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Re: What to look out for on an Omega test drive
« Reply #2 on: 04 September 2010, 12:45:03 »

Here are just a few things to look out for.

Front tyres worn on inside edge. Suspension woes (worn arm rubbers, incorrect camber etc settings perhaps after new shocker fitting)

Any misfires?

Start up. EML light on dashboard should light up and then go out. Any other lights on permanently e.g. ABS light.

Does it wander or pull to one side when driving.?

Driving. Auto gearbox. Does it behave itself on up and down changes.

Driver or passenger door. Does it "crack" when you open it?

Condition of coolant water and of oil in engine.


Really you need to have a good read of the problems that crop up time after time in the General help section. 
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davethediver

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Re: What to look out for on an Omega test drive
« Reply #3 on: 04 September 2010, 12:45:07 »

Quote
Hi again,

I've tried the search but not had much luck, it won't work on searching all posts, perhaps because I'm on mobile bb but thats another issue.

Anyway, I'm looking for a few pointers on what to look out for when test driving and viewing an Omega.

Service history and cambelt, idler and tensioner changes at 40, 80 and 120k I've already heard about.

I'm guessing being a heavy car, that they are hard on suspension? I remember the Carlton was always knocking out ARB bushes.
I've seen a few posts here on front wishbones, is there anything to look out?

Handbrake? I'm guessing this will be like the Carlton's drum under disc arrangement, but do they suffer the same rusting backplate issue?

Any other general issues, noises etc?

Cheers.

Water pump must be changed at same time on a 2.2 (cambelt driven) :y
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Jinglemaster2

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Re: What to look out for on an Omega test drive
« Reply #4 on: 04 September 2010, 13:08:34 »

What to look for on an Omega Test Drive?

Someone selling a Renault Laguna! I know I will be burned in hell for this, but I would not buy another Omega after the Renault. or the Galaxy. Or The Shogun. Or The Discovery. Actually, I would recommend looking at anything else basically.

Hold on a moment. let me get my flack jacket ready.......... :-X
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bigdods

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Re: What to look out for on an Omega test drive
« Reply #5 on: 04 September 2010, 16:49:54 »

pull out a few plug leads look for oil in the plug wells. Easily fixed with new cam cover gasket but is also likely to need new leads and dis pack which gets expensive.

Check that it has red coolant in not blue. Yes I know blue is ok, but its not the recommended coolant and could mean its seen some dodgy servicing.

rust around the top of the windscreen rubber can happen as well as under the doors and for older models on top of the doors where the rubber meets the glass.

Most models you can do either the paperclip or pedal test to read the fault codes to show up anything you cant see.

If possible pop off the wheels and check condition of springs (they can break at the bottom) and shocks. If its an elite check it stil has its air adjustable shocks and they are still piped in.

have genuine vx parts been used for cambelt change, was it the full kit not just the belt ? Water pump must be changed every other cam belt on the V6's , was this done, and again was it a genuine vx part ?

When did it last have new wishbones - if not in the last 40k they will possibly need doing. Again if they have been done were they genuine vx or lemforder parts ?

check that all the dashboard fault lights come on with ignition. Its not unheard of for people to pull the bulbs so you dont see the faults.

make sure the aircon puts out the right temp air when set at say 22 deg. If its fault you will either get freezing cold air when it should be warm or hot air when it should be cold. Dont just stick it on HI and chec for hot then LO and check for cold. Its in the mid range where things can go wrong.


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