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[Entwood]

If you can get hold of a low-foam biological detergent, and some of that "Vanish" oxygen stain removing powder stuff, stick a strong solution in the engine, run it gently up until the thermostat opens, which you can feel on the top hose, run for a further 20 minutes at low rpm then leave to stand for 24 hours. Drain, flush with clean water. Repeat the low foam biological/vanish cycle. when I did a mates oil cooler it took 10 of those cycles to get all the crud out, but after that he had no problems at all. basically .. don't try and rus h it ... and make sure you get ALL the old emulsified oil out.

The biological/vanish combination seems to work quite well.

[DK MV6]

Andy H, I was thinking of suitable loose coupling or simply keeping close enough with some plastic funnel on it but the spray could introduce lot of scrubbing as it will become a mix of air and water.  One has to be comfortable managing the pressure washer though without introducing the full pressure.  You are right about the heater maximum PSI limit and the Pressure washer being quite a mismatch.

I recently flushed my coolant per the OOF directions as I did a cam belt and water pump and had little to lose not do it the same time.  I wish I had though about this I would have tried it.

Cheers.

Because the thermostat doesn't open below 85 degC there is no point trying to flush the radiator by flushing cold water through the header tank.
To clean the radiator you need to either
- fill the cooling system with some cleaning agent,  run the engine up to temperature & then drain
or
- remove the radiator and clean it out of the vehicle.

The part about when the thermostat open, makes me believe that the rising of water in the expansion tank and boiling starts when the thermostat opens.. Does that give anyone a hint to what could be wrong?

[DK MV6]

If you can get hold of a low-foam biological detergent, and some of that "Vanish" oxygen stain removing powder stuff, stick a strong solution in the engine, run it gently up until the thermostat opens, which you can feel on the top hose, run for a further 20 minutes at low rpm then leave to stand for 24 hours. Drain, flush with clean water. Repeat the low foam biological/vanish cycle. when I did a mates oil cooler it took 10 of those cycles to get all the crud out, but after that he had no problems at all. basically .. don't try and rus h it ... and make sure you get ALL the old emulsified oil out.

The biological/vanish combination seems to work quite well.

Thanks alot for that advice... It seems like something i have to try. Right now my problem is that i can only run the car for about 3-4 minutes before the pressure builds up and the water in the exspansion tank starts to boil.. Im not sure that will allow the sollution to travel around the engine.. Maybe i have to remove the radiator from the car and give that a clean again, and THEN try to get the sollution through the engine and cooling system . ( if the boiling water in the expansion tank is because of a blocked radiator?? :-/ )

[Kneepad]

Thanks alot for that advice... It seems like something i have to try. Right now my problem is that i can only run the car for about 3-4 minutes before the pressure builds up and the water in the exspansion tank starts to boil.. Im not sure that will allow the sollution to travel around the engine.. Maybe i have to remove the radiator from the car and give that a clean again, and THEN try to get the sollution through the engine and cooling system . ( if the boiling water in the expansion tank is because of a blocked radiator?? :-/ )

I'm not familiar with the setup  on the V6, but would it be easier to remove the thermostat and clean the whole system.

[dad1uk]

Took me ages to get all the oil out of my 2.5. Even now I still get the odd blob of oil, I've lost count of how many times I've flushed it.
Keep perservering!

[MutantCav]

Also maybe the possibility that the pressure release on the cap on the expansion tank is clogged up so not releasing excess pressure??