when u changed the pads did u copper slip the sliders and the brake pins ? may be you are problem if they are sticking ?
Indeed, before buying or changing anything make sure the current set up is working as it should, and sticking sliders would be my first port of call tbh. Clean out under the rubber boots and grease the sliders with the correct heat resistant silicon based grease. Make sure it all works and moves freely.
To check the above push the piston in and open the bleed nipple with a simple bleed kit attached, to force the old fluid out from around the piston and draw some more fluid through with a good bleed of the system. I use 5.1 in mime as it has a higher boiling point, not because I need it generally, just to give a better tolerance if I get brave as it has a higher boiling point.
I would start with that first and see how it goes. Having been in the car with TB on a mission, IMO you've really got to be abusing the brakes to get them to play up, instant full brake force at the latest possible moment tickling the Abs after repeated burying the nose in the floor, in my car to a lesser extent, and I can only imagine how he would drive his own, I would think opts safe to say if your killing discs at that rate, something ain't right with the system.
My personal issue with tc pads is the la k of bite and feel under normal driving conditions, but that wont affect your issues.
Suspect oe pads, to give better bite, and ebc "dimpled" and grooved discs may be a good combination, but only choosing ebc as they seem to be more rust resistant than gm discs afaict, need to confirm this somehow though :-/
Buypartsby seem to have good prices on ebc discs last I looked. But if there is a fault or binding calliper they will go the exact same way, so check the brakes out IMO.
Hth