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[TheBoy]

Td gets filter changed 4-5K, why would it break down ? I only refer to seized bung. The threads usualy give up on high mile td's due to shorter oil changes.

The threads normally give up on TDs due to the crappy monkey metal sumps that BMW decided to use

[TheBoy]

Certainly with mine it's the thread on the pan drain that's chewed to buggery, I was lucky to get the plug back in there last time...

Once again, if anyone can point me at exactly where I can get a new pan for 35 quid I'd be grateful, my dealer is asking quite a bit more...

The TD sumps are appalling, and cost stupid money. And are a nightmare to change - you either have to lift the engine significantly, or drop the subframe.

Best thing to do with a TD one is to helicoil it.

Marks DTM did my old TD with a spark plug helicoil, and I used a Peugeot sump plug (as it had same thread as the helicoil), the sump never gave me any further problems (even when I ripped the sump plug out at 80mph  )

[Malcolm_D]

You have probably tried it but the technique I have always used to slacken nuts, plugs etc in this situation it to use a sharp centre punch on the edge of the offending item and knock it in an anticlockwise direction, the centre punch should create a hole and gain grip while the shock of being hit with a hammer provides the impact hopefully loosening it enough to the use mole grips on it. Worth a try before spending silly money or risking a fire? 

[swiss]

And are a nightmare to change - you either have to lift the engine significantly, or drop the subframe.

Oh? I confess I've not looked at it closely, but I'd assumed the sump just dropped off once it was unbolted. From your post I guess the subframe is in the way.

This would explain why one local garage described the operation as 'quite a difficult job' and wanted nearly 300 squids for it >.<

So would it be acceptable to helicoil it with the sump in place? Naturally I'm concerned about swarf ending up inside it and eating the engine's guts...

[TheBoy]

And are a nightmare to change - you either have to lift the engine significantly, or drop the subframe.

Oh? I confess I've not looked at it closely, but I'd assumed the sump just dropped off once it was unbolted. From your post I guess the subframe is in the way.

This would explain why one local garage described the operation as 'quite a difficult job' and wanted nearly 300 squids for it >.<

So would it be acceptable to helicoil it with the sump in place? Naturally I'm concerned about swarf ending up inside it and eating the engine's guts...

Plenty of grease on the tap, will hopefully pick up the swarf. Then drop a couple of pints of oil through it, hopefully flush out any that grease didn't catch.

I personally then did a couple of short oil changes, one after about 100 miles, then again after 250 further miles.  But then, apparently, I'm anal....

[swiss]

Hmm, wise words methinks. At the moment then that's looking like the most attractive option. Thanks folks for all the advice.

Oh, and I should apologise to the OP for semi-jacking his thread ^-^

[Alex W]

No worries

[osealy]

See previous post. Use a pump. You Don't have to get under the car to change the oil. 80k mls no problems.

[Omegatoy]

how about this?
the easy way to my mind, drill the sumpplug to let the oil out,
then tap a thread in the plug and fit a smaller bolt? no messing changing the sump ten mins to do and it dont matter that the original plug is solid in there cos it dont need to come out again
jm2pw

[unclelicklug]

how about this?
the easy way to my mind, drill the sumpplug to let the oil out,
then tap a thread in the plug and fit a smaller bolt? no messing changing the sump ten mins to do and it dont matter that the original plug is solid in there cos it dont need to come out again
jm2pw

I think you're on to something there...

[Shackeng]

how about this?
the easy way to my mind, drill the sumpplug to let the oil out,
then tap a thread in the plug and fit a smaller bolt? no messing changing the sump ten mins to do and it dont matter that the original plug is solid in there cos it dont need to come out again
jm2pw

I think you're on to something there...

Or try my fix here: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1199559682/4#4 of course this does rely on the old plug removal by drilling out with the 12mm drill. HTH

[Alex W]

Thanks for all these suggestions everyone.

I'll probably get a pump to get the oil out from above, then remove the sump and get the plug out (somehow)while its on the bench.

Did I mention the oil filter cap feels like its been welded on as well? I let my local garage do the last oil/filter change while it was in for its MOT. Silly boy, never again.

[scimmy_man]

did you not try welding a nut on?

I like the idea of drilling and tapping the nut tho.

[TheBoy]

Given the cost of V6 sump, I'd forget wasting money on a pump, just knock a hole in sump to drain, then replace sump.

And never let a garage touch it again - that sump plug is something like 20Nm, and the oil cap is around 15Nm...

[Seth]

Td gets filter changed 4-5K, why would it break down ? I only refer to seized bung. The threads usualy give up on high mile td's due to shorter oil changes.

The threads normally give up on TDs due to the crappy monkey metal sumps that BMW decided to use

EXACTLY ........
Gotta drop the subframe off mine soon, and fit a replacement sump off my spare motor.
Not looking forward to this operation, but it's got to be done - 'piece of mind' and all that!
 

BTW; mine's a very well maintained example with 5k mile oil-changes since new, that now gets 2.5k changes.