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[shyboy]

My DBW 2.6l Estate 2-button ignition key has started to jam in the barrel with increasing frequency, and so far it has released and turned after some gentle wiggling, but it's going to need an overhaul before it's too late. I've read the excellent guides for doing this, but wonder if anyone can confirm that it's a purely mechanical problem, before I get stuck in.
Both the keys have recently stopped operating remotely and one is currently with Martin Imber in the hope that he can fix it, hopefully to be followed by the other.
For the time being I'm having to open and lock the doors manually, setting off the alarms, and when the key jams I can't turn on the ignition to stop them. Is there any magic electronic function which stops the key turning, or is it just a mechanical cleaning problem.
I'm having to leave the car unlocked at night to save the neighbours a rude awakening each morning.   
Any guidance would be appreciated.
bill.

[Welung666]

Purely mechanical, get it cleaned ASAP before it jams completely.

As for the alarm, reach round from the rear drivers side door and push the button down on the drivers door. This will lock the car without arming the alarm

[Andy B]

My DBW 2.6l Estate 2-button ignition key has started to jam in the barrel with increasing frequency, and so far it has released and turned after some gentle wiggling, .....

Before you dismantle all your lock, try squirting something like chain lub down inside the lock. Chain lub is stickier than the likes of WD40. My Astra would do this, not let you have your key back, but after a few appications of chain lub over a week or two, it sorted itself out. It might save having to strip it all down.     


If you lock  your car as above, make sure  you have  your keys in your hand first!       

[shyboy]

Thanks Welung. Will do ASAP. Will have to take Swmbo's new Corsa off her for the next day or two.
Andy. I have tried lubrication and WD40 but I'm concerned that it might not work fast enough before it jams completely.
Now where did I put my keys? 

[Andy B]

.....

Now where did I put my keys? 

You didn't send the whole thing to Martin did you?  :-? Don't lose the chip. 

[shyboy]

Yes I did. It was all assembled of course and I'm sure Martin knows about looking out for the chip when he separates it. Doesn't he?
He didn't tell me to retain the key part.

[Andy B]

Yes I did. It was all assembled of course and I'm sure Martin knows about looking out for the chip when he separates it. Doesn't he?
He didn't tell me to retain the key part.

I've sent him a key fob too, I kept the blade bit here though just in case .... not that I think I'd need it. 

[Kevin Wood]

There are 2 possibilities, IMHO. One is the interlock that prevents you removing the key when the gearbox is not in park.

The other is the lock barrel itself.

If you remove the steering column cowling there is a small solenoid right on the bottom of the lock barrel. If this is warm while the key is jammed it could be a problem with the switch in the gear selector mechanism. Remove the wiring connector from the solenoid and see if the key can be removed.

If that's not it remove the barrel and de-burr and lubricate the lock levers as in the HOWTO. I found the problem with mine was not the levers but a pin that sits in the back (furthest from the key slot) end of the lock barrel and runs round a cam in the rear of the lock barrel casing to draw the lock barrel into the steering column and disengage the steering lock. I had to give the pin some lubrication and remove some burring from the cam in the body of the barrel where it had worn.

My main problem was not being able to turn the key, though.

Hope the above makes some sense.

Kevin

[Auto Addict]

You should not use WD40 on locks, use a silicone spray or lithium grease.

Most lock manufacturers, do not advise WD40 as it's a water deterent, not a lubricant.

[Boditza]

I did this on my ignition more than 6 months ago:
cleaned it with a cleaning spray(i used break cleaner). put some napkins just under it so that the plastic doesn't get affected and spray inside until what comes out is clean, then blow some hot air inside for 10-15secs with a hair dryer. its enough because the cleaning spray is higly volatile. after that i sprayed wd40 inside until it started to come out(keep the napkins under the ignition). insert the key and put ignition on and off a few times the spray some more. it worked like a charm for me but YOU WIL DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK

[shyboy]

Kevin,
On re-reading my description, I realise I may have given the wrong impression about what's happening. The key goes in OK but sometimes won't turn and I can then feel resistance to its being pulled out again. I think your first comment refers to an auto. Mine's manual.
I think your pin and cam description could be the problem as I now notice that the barrel is reluctant to move inwards as the key is inserted, and I presume it's this action which releases the locking mechanism.
I'll give lubrication another go before stripping it down. Thanks for your help.
AA. Thanks for your info. I now use Plus Gas to avoid offending all of you who must be sick of repeating that WD40 is principally a water dispersal agent. My thought on using it on the ignition barrel was that it might dilute and clean any gunge formed by past lubrication with the wrong sort of oil.

[shyboy]

Thanks Boditza.
I'll get the wife to do the spraying etc. and give her your instructions standing 20feet away.

[Welung666]

PlusGas is a penetrating fluid and not a lubricant (not long term anyway), I'd recommend using a PTFE based spray lube, I use the 3in1 variety. It is an excellent long term lubricant, I use it on all my locks twice a year and never had a problem

[Kevin Wood]

Kevin,
On re-reading my description, I realise I may have given the wrong impression about what's happening. The key goes in OK but sometimes won't turn and I can then feel resistance to its being pulled out again. I think your first comment refers to an auto. Mine's manual.

Yep, that's exactly the problem I had in the second scenario I described, the first being specific to autos, of course.

I think your pin and cam description could be the problem as I now notice that the barrel is reluctant to move inwards as the key is inserted, and I presume it's this action which releases the locking mechanism.

Does sound very much like it.

I'll give lubrication another go before stripping it down. Thanks for your help.
AA. Thanks for your info. I now use Plus Gas to avoid offending all of you who must be sick of repeating that WD40 is principally a water dispersal agent. My thought on using it on the ignition barrel was that it might dilute and clean any gunge formed by past lubrication with the wrong sort of oil.

In my case it was beyond lubrication and it's doubtful, IMHO, that anything sprayed into the lock would penetrate far enough. I did manage to free mine (in the work car park!) with a mixture of lubricants blasted in using an airline.

What I eventually found (and I believe I have some photos somewhere) was wear in the cam over which this pin runs making it sticky. In order to improve it I had to use a stone on a dremel tool to smooth the worn area.

I think what I'm saying is that it's not difficult to remove the barrel and do the above, but it will become a much bigger headache when you can't turn the key any more, so it might be prudent to take the lock barrel out and sort it while you still can.

I'll see if I can dig up some photos later.

Kevin

[shyboy]

Thanks Kevin.
I am treating this as urgent now.
I have always been the sort of person who buys tools for the sake of it, and I have a full set of Dremel gear but have never used it. I also acquired a second kit when my dad died last year, and I'm not sure that he had ever used it either. Maybe now's the time for it to earn its keep.