Ok, assuming the correct tools are not available, then do the following.
Reset the cam sprocket positions to the markings on the rear plate. Each cam sprocket has two marks, the left hand pair are marked 1 and 2, the right hand ones 3 and 4.
The markings should read 1- as you read left to right.
Now you need to lock them in postion somehow, some cloths pegs or something might do it but, dont clamp them together, they are sintered steel so prone to cracking under such sheer forces.
Now we need to get the belt on and timed as best as we can given the lack of the correct kit.
So set the lower adjustable idler so the offset is at 3 Oclock and the upper one at 12 Oclock.
Bring the crank round so the timing mark is at 6 Oclock and aligns with the marking on the oil pump casting.
Now rotate the crank back about 5 or so degress and thread the cambelt, starting at the crank, anti clockwise. You may want to put a wedge to the left of the crank sprocket to stop the belt slipping.
Keep it fairly taught as you go and it helps to use a flat blade screwdriver gently wedged between the belt and rear cover to hold the belt on the cam sprockets as you go.
Before you thread it onto the tensioner (which is often easier done with it removed), rotate the crank back so its at TDC and aligned with the timing marks (at 6 Oclock).
Once fitted, tension the belt up, I tend to over tension it.
Now set the lower idler so the offset is at 12 Oclock and the upper one to 6 Oclock.
Rotate the crank through 2 full revolutions and re-check the timing and retension if needed.
Its not ideal but will be ok, its worth trying to get a loan of a kit to set it correctly at some point in the future